I was bidding on an original working SNK Gang Wars on evilBay, a game I've been trying to find at a reasonable price for a long time, when I saw that the seller also had a defective original Technos The Combatribes on auction with a very low starting price. So I made a deal with the seller, that if I won both, I would only have to pay shipping for one (as they could ship in the same parcel). I made a low bid on the defective one also, and won both };-D
This time I tried contacting one of my colleagues, that I know have done SMD soldering professionally in a former employment, and asked him for good advise. Not surprisingly (considering my earlier poor reflow attempt) he told me that the 'drag-a-drop'-method is not very well suited for reflowing, but way better for 1st-time soldering of SMD ICs. Instead he suggested that I did the reflow one pin at the time using the following technique: Put the solder tip down at the end of the pad, then push it towards the IC pin, thereby scooping the small amount of solder on the pad to the pin. Of cause, remembering to flood all the pins in liquid flux first };-P And this reflow was a great success };-D
And now all the graphics was steady on the screen when pressing the pins, and even when I tried to flex the board.
The only problem now remaining, was the torn off pad... the sprites now looked like this, but besides that, all was perfect.
Now, as the signal line comes from somewhere under the IC, I would have to find a patching point by trial'n'error. The pad is just 1 in a cluster of 4 that all have signals coming from under the IC. So I went hunting with the continuity tester, putting one probe on the neighboring pin, and started probing the vias under the IC from the solder side of the PCB. I found a connection in a cluster of 4 vias. I checked that the other 2 good pins were also represented in the cluster, and they were };-P So I soldered a long piece of kynar to the last via
Now I just had to make a nice and durable patch. I'm not a big fan of patching over the side of the PCB, so I located a nearby relatively big-holed via; cleaned it up using the desoldering gun, and routed the kynar through there.
And this closes this repair log. I think this board is going up for trade, as I'm not a big fan of this particular brawler, and don't remember it from back in the days. Should you be interested in buying or trading it for defective PCBs, there's a contact link at the bottom of the page };-P