tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-40645556887376481692024-03-18T06:30:52.443+01:00ElgensRepairsWelcome to my nerdy world };-PElgenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09955625580194567794noreply@blogger.comBlogger38125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4064555688737648169.post-75519966911823946872016-04-23T15:39:00.000+02:002020-06-15T21:48:46.499+02:00NMK Thunder Dragon Repair Log<div style="text-align: right;">
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Some repairs can be very tedious and take you months (even years) of fighting with the PCB to complete. Others on the other hand can be both easy to diagnose and to repair. This is one of the latter. And I think it is important to tell about the full spectrum of difficultness. So here we go...</div>
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This <a href="http://www.arcade-museum.com/game_detail.php?game_id=10100" target="_blank">little baby by NMK</a> has actually already been on the <a href="http://elgensrepairs.blogspot.dk/2013/04/nmk-thunder-dragon-repair-log.html" target="_blank">table once before</a> when I bought it as defective. But a couple of months ago, I decided to bring it to a cozy get-to-together with my dear friends at MadGearArcade (a private arcade set up with some candy cabs and SuperGuns in my friends living room };-P), as they all 3 love good shmups. It was just bobble wrapped and stuffed tightly into a bag-pack together 3-4 other PCBs. I know this is of cause not the optimal way of transporting arcade PCBs, but when you don't own a car and have to bike to get to your destination, and you also know how to fix brokes PCBs, this is actually how I usually transport them to different gatherings.<br />
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When I connected it in the a wonderful <a href="http://wiki.arcadeotaku.com/w/Sega_Aero_City" target="_blank">Sega Aero City</a> and flipped the on-switch, I quickly discovered that something was wrong with the music and some of the sounds. Most noticeable was, that the intro music was played in level 1 instead of the normal music for that level (this video is not from that night, but shot with my tv and SuperGun).<br />
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After a quick visual inspection, I found this</div>
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<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Sad2qlMF3tw/Whl7SbtbrZI/AAAAAAAABeg/UL96Z6IJHM4EZxME6gVuh4GyywRKh7GWgCLcBGAs/s1600/EDE8758D-BEA9-462E-928B-167D039509BD_zpsnq0jstm4.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Sad2qlMF3tw/Whl7SbtbrZI/AAAAAAAABeg/UL96Z6IJHM4EZxME6gVuh4GyywRKh7GWgCLcBGAs/s640/EDE8758D-BEA9-462E-928B-167D039509BD_zpsnq0jstm4.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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The smoothening cap right next to the sound chip had been crushed during transport. It would seem very likely, that this had something to do with the problem I was experiencing. All the other disc-caps for smoothening spread around the PCB is 0.1uF (code 104), so I removed the 2 broken-off pins, cleaned the holes, and installed a fresh one.</div>
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And now the music was in the right place again.</div>
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After playing a few games, I wasn't actually completely sure that music was completely right, but after inspecting an <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T-zjgFA-cEE&app" target="_blank">OST</a> I found on youtube, I realised that I just have a bad memory. The music is ABSOLUTELY right now };-P</div>
Elgenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09955625580194567794noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4064555688737648169.post-10615186663947149942016-04-17T22:32:00.000+02:002020-06-15T21:48:29.694+02:00Psikyo Gunbird Repair Log<div style="text-align: right;">
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So, after beeing dead in the water for over a year now, Elgen is <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iTxOKsyZ0Lw" target="_blank">back with another one of those block rockin logs!</a> };-P This repair was done over a year ago, but I hadn't had the time nor energy to do the write-up before now. I hope this will mark a new period of more logs to come. But please be patient here at the beginning, as I'm quite rusty };-P</div>
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<3 A Whole Lotta Love and Plz Enjoy <3</div>
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};-P E</div>
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This story actually starts with me smashing one of my own favourite arcade PCBs... but let's start at the very beginning:<br />
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After doing this <a href="http://elgensrepairs.blogspot.dk/2014/03/using-gals-to-replace-small-sparse.html" target="_blank">repair log</a> about using GALs to substitute bipolar PROMs under certain circumstances, I'd really gotten interested in PLDs in general. Especially, I wanted to get enrolled in the PLD-dumping program that my dear friend <a href="http://www.jammarcade.net/" target="_blank">porchy</a> has going on his website <a href="http://www.jammarcade.net/pal-dumps/" target="_blank">JAMMArcade.net</a>. The program is about dumping as many (mostly protected) PLDs as possible, as these are usually *not* part of the MAME ROM dumps. As the PLDs are protected, you dump them by a technique known as <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Black-box_testing" target="_blank">black-box testing</a>: You throw all possible input at the unit under test (UUT), and record the output. While this is pretty easy for very simple logic devices like an AND-gate or similar, it's much more complex, if the UUT is able to hold internal state (i.e. FLIP-FLOPs) and/or has connection points that can be configured as both in- and outputs.<br />
Anyway, if you build an appropriate adaptor, you can use an EPROM and "read" the PLD as a ROM. Address lines generates all the possible inputs and the data lines "record" all the output. And here we should also remember to take into account, that some of the pins can be configured as both in- or outputs. The resulting dump file can then be analyzed and we can then derive how the original equations must have been.<br />
So I made such an adaptor, and started dumping PLDs from games in my collection that wasn't in porchys online library already. My adaptor is very quick-and-dirty and uses 2 ZIF-sockets to make it physically fit in my Needhams EMP-21, but works well. For my first dump, I started with a PAL on one of my all time favourite games: <a href="http://www.arcade-museum.com/game_detail.php?game_id=8044" target="_blank">Gunbird by Psikyo</a>.<br />
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<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-jjrRnYqXmy0/Whl9tlnkX4I/AAAAAAAABew/gxFeBhdxcnUP6prf8OM-V73nt5gBQQGHACLcBGAs/s1600/6F0BF9E4-2EB7-45CF-AF5A-6CEF13624E7C_zpsyw8ervdx.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1196" data-original-width="1600" height="478" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-jjrRnYqXmy0/Whl9tlnkX4I/AAAAAAAABew/gxFeBhdxcnUP6prf8OM-V73nt5gBQQGHACLcBGAs/s640/6F0BF9E4-2EB7-45CF-AF5A-6CEF13624E7C_zpsyw8ervdx.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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So i popped the PAL out of its socket and dumped it in the EPROM programmer<br />
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and then inserted it into the PCB again<br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-kDWLuVDL9_M/Whl-YIcV6FI/AAAAAAAABe8/JF_b8ySaNpoI0pnlvENl424rkYOQ_xtbACLcBGAs/s1600/A0626318-44B7-43BE-80AC-16BC15EFBBB1_zpsh30s9gqj.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1196" data-original-width="1600" height="478" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-kDWLuVDL9_M/Whl-YIcV6FI/AAAAAAAABe8/JF_b8ySaNpoI0pnlvENl424rkYOQ_xtbACLcBGAs/s640/A0626318-44B7-43BE-80AC-16BC15EFBBB1_zpsh30s9gqj.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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and hooked it up in my test bench for testing... But I got nothing but a BLACK SCREEN!!! };-( I immediately pulled the power again!<br />
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Now let's just revisit 2 of the previous pictures again side-by-side<br />
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<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-jjrRnYqXmy0/Whl9tlnkX4I/AAAAAAAABe4/f5X7h_UBdPwqgAeKLfnQCIYz5wDiHQ1yACEwYBhgL/s1600/6F0BF9E4-2EB7-45CF-AF5A-6CEF13624E7C_zpsyw8ervdx.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1196" data-original-width="1600" height="149" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-jjrRnYqXmy0/Whl9tlnkX4I/AAAAAAAABe4/f5X7h_UBdPwqgAeKLfnQCIYz5wDiHQ1yACEwYBhgL/s200/6F0BF9E4-2EB7-45CF-AF5A-6CEF13624E7C_zpsyw8ervdx.jpg" width="200" /></a><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-kDWLuVDL9_M/Whl-YIcV6FI/AAAAAAAABfA/boVyxLnlChYQUNDBM2n4QNjWIbhCqeAEQCEwYBhgL/s1600/A0626318-44B7-43BE-80AC-16BC15EFBBB1_zpsh30s9gqj.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1196" data-original-width="1600" height="149" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-kDWLuVDL9_M/Whl-YIcV6FI/AAAAAAAABfA/boVyxLnlChYQUNDBM2n4QNjWIbhCqeAEQCEwYBhgL/s200/A0626318-44B7-43BE-80AC-16BC15EFBBB1_zpsh30s9gqj.jpg" width="200" /></a></div>
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You notice anything wrong? Let's just see them one more time then...</div>
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<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-jjrRnYqXmy0/Whl9tlnkX4I/AAAAAAAABe4/f5X7h_UBdPwqgAeKLfnQCIYz5wDiHQ1yACEwYBhgL/s1600/6F0BF9E4-2EB7-45CF-AF5A-6CEF13624E7C_zpsyw8ervdx.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1196" data-original-width="1600" height="149" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-jjrRnYqXmy0/Whl9tlnkX4I/AAAAAAAABe4/f5X7h_UBdPwqgAeKLfnQCIYz5wDiHQ1yACEwYBhgL/s200/6F0BF9E4-2EB7-45CF-AF5A-6CEF13624E7C_zpsyw8ervdx.jpg" width="200" /></a><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-kDWLuVDL9_M/Whl-YIcV6FI/AAAAAAAABfA/boVyxLnlChYQUNDBM2n4QNjWIbhCqeAEQCEwYBhgL/s1600/A0626318-44B7-43BE-80AC-16BC15EFBBB1_zpsh30s9gqj.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1196" data-original-width="1600" height="149" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-kDWLuVDL9_M/Whl-YIcV6FI/AAAAAAAABfA/boVyxLnlChYQUNDBM2n4QNjWIbhCqeAEQCEwYBhgL/s200/A0626318-44B7-43BE-80AC-16BC15EFBBB1_zpsh30s9gqj.jpg" width="200" /></a></div>
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I had actually (clumsy as I am) inserted the poor PAL up-side-down into the socket. Of cause I tried to turn it around the right way and apply power again, but the damage was done, that PAL was toasted }:-(</div>
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Oh well, the whole purpose of dumping the PAL, was after all to be able to make a replacement. So I quickly derived the equations and programmed a GAL replacement. Slammed it into the socket and flipped the power switch full of hope. But alas... black screen! }:-( I tried verifying the GAL an extra time and also tried to dump it, but all checked out fine (as far as I remember, but more on that later).</div>
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Full of dispair, I parked the poor PCB on the shelf hoping to be able to fix it at later time...</div>
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Months went by, but suddenly one day while looking at the MAME source of another Psikyo I have in my collection, <a href="http://www.arcade-museum.com/game_detail.php?game_id=9490" target="_blank">Sengoku Blade / Sengoku Ace Ep. 2</a>, I noticed that it uses the same MAME driver. Usually this is a good indication that the games run on very similar hardware. I immediately fetched both PCBs and studied them side by side. Obviously the lay-out was not precisely the same, but there seemed to be a lot simmilarities; in particualar the both have a PAL-IC in roughly the same area...</div>
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<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-7Cpz8YiyqV8/WhmBQFxsTpI/AAAAAAAABfM/ZNeNaT0W068DCloKbYkJ6T41GlLD6VS9QCLcBGAs/s1600/31015135-805c-45cf-86d5-a732fe314daa_zpsu3ohoubf.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="768" data-original-width="1024" height="480" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-7Cpz8YiyqV8/WhmBQFxsTpI/AAAAAAAABfM/ZNeNaT0W068DCloKbYkJ6T41GlLD6VS9QCLcBGAs/s640/31015135-805c-45cf-86d5-a732fe314daa_zpsu3ohoubf.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Now just a word on the the difference between PLDs and ROMs. If you replace a ROM with one of the same type (but with different data) nothing serious happens with either PCB or the ROM. You just get errors, game will not start, graphic glitches etc. But you pop in the correct ROM afterwards, and everything is back to normal; no harm done. That is because the configuration of address and data lines, input and and outputs is always the same on a ROM regardsless of the data programmed onto it. On a PLD (ie GAL) on the other hand, you as a programmer of the device, have the power to (to some extent) define which pins should be inputs and outputs along with the logic that is programmed onto it. Two GALs programmed with different input and output configuration can therefore NOT just be safely interchanged.</div>
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But I took a chance... Aaaaaaaaaaand, MY GUNBIRD BOOTED! };-P</div>
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But as you might see on the photos, the game had now developed some other issues. Sometimes the graphics was glitchy and sometimes some of the letters was replaced by other letters or other characters. I was pretty sure, that this had nothing to do with using the PAL from Sengoku Blade, as I could influence the behavour of the glitches by flexing the PCB. This is often a sign, that some of the SMDs have pins broken off of the PCB and making poor contact.</div>
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Finding the culprits of such problems can be hard, cause you are not always able to see the cracks with the naked eye. But by pressing down on the SMDs one by one, and watching if it had any effect on screen, I found a good candidate near one of the corners; a large Psikyo custom IC.</div>
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After doing a close visual inspection of the suspecious IC, I still couldn't find anything fishy. So I decided to just reflow ALL the pins... 160 that is };-S And I really hate doing SMD soldering, cause I suck at it! I reflowed 1 side (40 pins) at a time testing in between. But after having reflowed all 4 sides, there was still no change, and I could still make the glitches go away by pressing on the custom IC. Having ruled out the large custom, I started investigeting the nearby SMDs pressing from both top and bottom at the same time and soon found that pressing on this IC</div>
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made the glitches go away. And that didn't happen when doing the same trick on the others. Luckily this one was larger and had a lot fewer pins that the big custom. And after a quick reflow of all the pins, the glitches were all gone, even when I flexed the board.</div>
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So now all was more or less good, but it still annoyed me, that I had to shift the PAL between the 2 games. So just to be absolutely sure, I tried to read the GAL I'd programmed at the beginning one last time. But for some reason it read as blank. That was strange? I tried again; same result! Now I am almost 100% that I had been dooing all the right steps of programming the GAL, but obviously something had gone wrong. Full of hope I tried to program it again with the devired equations, slammed it in the socket</div>
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and lo and behold: The game booted ever so happily! };-P</div>
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A long case was closed, and I was proud to contribute <a href="http://www.jammarcade.net/psikyo-pal-dump-added/" target="_blank">my first *real* and tested PAL-dump</a> to the fast-growing repository over at porchys site <a href="http://www.jammarcade.net/" target="_blank">JAMMArcade.net</a>.</div>
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To this day, I still don't know what went wrong when I tried to program the GAL the first time... but I'm glad that all went well in the end, as both Gunbird, Sengoku Blade, and Psikyo games in general for that matter, are really some of my favourite shmups };-P</div>
Elgenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09955625580194567794noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4064555688737648169.post-32741786176297290332014-12-20T17:22:00.002+01:002020-06-15T21:47:30.378+02:00Taito Asuka & Asuka Repair Log<div style="text-align: right;">
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This original <a href="http://www.arcade-museum.com/game_detail.php?game_id=6953" target="_blank">Taito Asuka & Asuka</a></div>
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I was lucky to grap real cheap on a Danish forum. The guy selling it didn't post a picture of the PCB, misspelled the name of the game, and stated that it might be a bootleg. So even though it was an auction, this game went under the radar of other forum users, and I got it for my initial cheap bid. As I later on discovered that this seller is a dirty rotten swindler, I don't feel bad about it.<br />
Anyway, when I first received the game, it played well and was all working and fine. I decided to bring it with me to an <a href="http://www.sskt.dk/" target="_blank">SSKT-gathering</a> in <a href="https://www.google.dk/maps/place/4700+N%C3%A6stved/@55.2236219,11.7381961,11z/data=!3m1!4b1!4m2!3m1!1s0x4652b971c98cdea1:0x9eabd8ae4dedc6f2?hl=en" target="_blank">Næstved</a> Denmark, as one of my friends there wanted to try it out. I don't have a car myself, so when I'm not able to get e lift with someone else, I travel by train with all my gaming goodies in a suitcase and/or backpack. Sadly Asuka&Asuka didn't quite survive the trip fully functioning. Some of the colours were frakked up<br />
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and I didn't have the time on-site to have a look at it. Upon returning home, it was just shelved, until I had a time to look at it.<br />
Months later I decided to have a go at fixing it. I soon discovered, that this PCB suffers from the same Achilles Heel, as many other Taito games from the same period; the Taito SIL-RGB-module<br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-xeADEaXN674/WhmoAlwZLeI/AAAAAAAABgU/Zg7w7dV57Bok_MnxKCwE99xB8knCBk9OACLcBGAs/s1600/9E8B7D30-24C0-404F-A348-8BFBB907A201_zpsuuwmalpu.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1196" data-original-width="1600" height="478" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-xeADEaXN674/WhmoAlwZLeI/AAAAAAAABgU/Zg7w7dV57Bok_MnxKCwE99xB8knCBk9OACLcBGAs/s640/9E8B7D30-24C0-404F-A348-8BFBB907A201_zpsuuwmalpu.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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And having a closer look, I could also see, that a reflow from the component side had been attempted earlier on. I found that pressing down on the package made the error go away<br />
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so I was pretty confident, that I was on the right track here.<br />
Besides that, I also found a large cap on the loose<br />
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<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-MlbslXiQuqI/WhmojFndSHI/AAAAAAAABgk/1NI9Hncq4G0o_TQxMngvGWh6Wzsh1hN1gCLcBGAs/s1600/8A213B75-0E5E-4738-9D3A-4BC3F5AEA6E7_zpscvtkgl7g.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1196" data-original-width="1600" height="149" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-MlbslXiQuqI/WhmojFndSHI/AAAAAAAABgk/1NI9Hncq4G0o_TQxMngvGWh6Wzsh1hN1gCLcBGAs/s200/8A213B75-0E5E-4738-9D3A-4BC3F5AEA6E7_zpscvtkgl7g.jpg" width="200" /></a><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-aqBHaI2MWKg/Whmoi1HrRHI/AAAAAAAABgg/bp3TyJH8v8EguyuH_Mg-dbsB6u3jkLvGQCLcBGAs/s1600/2AE90575-7C2C-4061-8CD6-93BA29437CAC_zpssgjzdzfe.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1196" data-original-width="1600" height="149" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-aqBHaI2MWKg/Whmoi1HrRHI/AAAAAAAABgg/bp3TyJH8v8EguyuH_Mg-dbsB6u3jkLvGQCLcBGAs/s200/2AE90575-7C2C-4061-8CD6-93BA29437CAC_zpssgjzdzfe.jpg" width="200" /></a></div>
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but I was rather sure, that this was not involved in the colour issue, so went straight on to the RGB-module.<br />
Taito used these type of custom SIL-RGB-modules on a number of their games including i.e. <a href="http://www.arcade-museum.com/game_detail.php?game_id=9255" target="_blank">Rainbow Island</a> back in the day, and always mounted them perpendicular to the PCB, instead of making sufficient space on the PCB and bending it down onto the PCB surface. That way it's extremely flimsy and very sensitive to just the slightest bend or bump.<br />
As an initial attempt, I tried doing another reflow from the component side, but without any luck. So I decided on desoldering the thing and mounting it properly. But when I started and gave it just i little yank while desolering, all the pins snapped clean off }:-O<br />
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I had a lot of 64-pin reduced size DIL sockets, that I bought as a mistake some time ago (wanted to use them for socketing 68000 CPUs, but didn't look closely enough at the pitch }:-S Luckily they were cheap };-P), and I decided to use 2 of these on top of each other top mount the module properly. The bottom would be soldered to the PCB, and the module would be mounted in the top one. That way the module would rise above the other components, making it easy to mount it flat.<br />
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But first the holes needed cleaning; all the old component pins were still sitting there. That proved to be a harder task than expected. Most of the pins came out pretty easy<br />
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but the holes for the 4 supply pins (2 x 5V and 2 x GND) had their vias connected to big supply planes inside (middle layers) the PCB making it very difficult to heat up the solder blobs. Also I think the supply pins themselves might be slightly thicker than the others, because they were just stuck! After having cleaned all the other holes and also broken a track on the solder side }:-S<br />
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I gave up on those 4 last holes; 5V and GND was no problem getting elsewhere nearby on the board. So I started working on the socket to be soldered onto the PCB. As there were other components on the board where the socket should be placed, I needed to cut some of the plastics so it would fit around them<br />
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I soldered some small wires on the supply pins of the socket, and also removed a bit of lacker from a big GND plane on the PCB with my Stanley knife, where the bend pins on the "other" side of the socket could attach.<br />
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I soldered in the socket connecting GND to the big GND plane "inside" the socket "walls", and 5V to a nearby cap. The pins on the "other" side got soldered to the PCB as well for proper fastening.<br />
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As a last preparation of the PCB, I replaced the electrolyte cap for an equivalent one with a smaller form factor<br />
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Now on to the top socket. I started by soldering pieces of uninsulated single core wires onto the pin-stumps on the module and then cutting them down to equal length. I then pressed the wires firmly down into the holes and caryfully bent the whole module down onto the socket<br />
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I then used hotglue to secure the module to the socket from the underside<br />
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I inserted the top socket into the other... a perfect fit };-P<br />
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After having fixed the broken track on the solder side with a piece on kynar<br />
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and reflowed the the loose cap<br />
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<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-7xs27ESfzBI/WhmsNQm-64I/AAAAAAAABh0/ELdm3Ai1UG4mljb05PjoNpv4g3mslZnxwCLcBGAs/s1600/839D20E9-1208-4A25-ACD0-5CB55B721C48_zpscfitychs.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1116" data-original-width="1439" height="496" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-7xs27ESfzBI/WhmsNQm-64I/AAAAAAAABh0/ELdm3Ai1UG4mljb05PjoNpv4g3mslZnxwCLcBGAs/s640/839D20E9-1208-4A25-ACD0-5CB55B721C48_zpscfitychs.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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it was time for the big test. And lo and behold...<br />
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We have all colours back again! };-P And you can tap on, wiggle with, press down on the module etc., and the colours still stays on };-P<br />
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This game is a nice little vert shmup, but I am considering parting with it, cause the very weird sidescrolling used, kind of makes me a bit seasick when playing it };-PElgenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09955625580194567794noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4064555688737648169.post-86702611679511399292014-11-23T23:47:00.002+01:002020-06-15T21:46:57.303+02:00Capcom Ghost 'n Goblins Bootleg Repair Log<div style="text-align: right;">
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I snapped up this defective bootleg <a href="http://www.arcade-museum.com/game_detail.php?game_id=7938" target="_blank">Ghost 'n Goblins</a> along with some other defectives very cheap at a danish forum about a year ago. Up until now, it had just been sitting on the shelf; not even tested. It had adaptor wires soldered directly onto the edge connector.</div>
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As <a href="http://elgensrepairs.blogspot.dk/2013/01/capcom-1942-bootleg-repair-log.html" target="_blank">mentioned before</a> I believe, that people who does these kind of things, will burn in a special level of Hell; the one they reserve for child molesters and people who talk at the theatre... <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vVgbX_YeK-s" target="_blank">The Special Hell!</a> }:-(<br />
Well, anyway... the fingerboard soldered to the other end of the wires wasn't JAMMA, so I made a QAD adaptor with a JAMMA fingerboard connecting only the power and video connections. The game booted, and I was greeted with the attract mode:<br />
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<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-zk7k1RvoL-o/Whm709dA4nI/AAAAAAAABic/ufLRbKQc-rcgGcQr8voDYpoOXi8O5shAQCLcBGAs/s1600/67A9D189-0A5A-4DA0-9A81-F9226BBFF3DC_zpsqnmo6nnh.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1196" data-original-width="1600" height="478" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-zk7k1RvoL-o/Whm709dA4nI/AAAAAAAABic/ufLRbKQc-rcgGcQr8voDYpoOXi8O5shAQCLcBGAs/s640/67A9D189-0A5A-4DA0-9A81-F9226BBFF3DC_zpsqnmo6nnh.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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The backgrounds and sprites were perfect, but the layer displaying characters and the game logo was pretty messed up and the game was dead silent. The silence could, however, just be due to a dip switch setting turning off attract sound.<br />
I did the usual visual inspection, but as nothing obvious was to find, I started doing (what I sometimes refer to as) "Playing the game of peeking and poking around". For this, I use either my scope, logic probe or both. The purpose of this, is to give me a rough idea of where the different elements of the game are generated. I usually start with the ROMs and RAMs trying to short adjacent data and address lines with the probe to see what that stirs up in the game. Also I peek a bit at the data and address signals. This time I started with the logic probe and quickly found that this ROM<br />
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<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-5A5t5lsNWZI/Whm8WI3-5pI/AAAAAAAABio/TxGDJjB8QBIeQJgoTcgY_unlnodS6X9_wCLcBGAs/s1600/4F63C091-532C-49C7-A26B-8E130FD8E70C_zpsjbkz55vv.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1196" data-original-width="1600" height="478" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-5A5t5lsNWZI/Whm8WI3-5pI/AAAAAAAABio/TxGDJjB8QBIeQJgoTcgY_unlnodS6X9_wCLcBGAs/s640/4F63C091-532C-49C7-A26B-8E130FD8E70C_zpsjbkz55vv.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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and this RAM<br />
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<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/--N1bT-tfmLs/Whm8pgRRj1I/AAAAAAAABis/UXUB4Mh8PVQIcaW_D67Uemo659tCq8etACLcBGAs/s1600/2FDF7CB1-ECDA-46FC-AC45-498F2A30FFA7_zpsgb2dcuen.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1196" data-original-width="1600" height="478" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/--N1bT-tfmLs/Whm8pgRRj1I/AAAAAAAABis/UXUB4Mh8PVQIcaW_D67Uemo659tCq8etACLcBGAs/s640/2FDF7CB1-ECDA-46FC-AC45-498F2A30FFA7_zpsgb2dcuen.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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both at the primary PCB (also containing the primary CPU, program-ROMs and the entire sound system) were definitely involved in making the character layer.<br />
Next I went over all the data and address signal lines of the two with the scope, but didn't find anything unusual. But then these two these two guys<br />
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<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-jXSAJ9LJvA0/Whm8_g4YkSI/AAAAAAAABi0/8JTFmhc_Xbkyb75VPET9rtf9tfz7Gn4OgCLcBGAs/s1600/254b72a9-f14e-4dd1-92b0-0c6eb3ef3f21_zps26ebeb80.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1196" data-original-width="1600" height="478" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-jXSAJ9LJvA0/Whm8_g4YkSI/AAAAAAAABi0/8JTFmhc_Xbkyb75VPET9rtf9tfz7Gn4OgCLcBGAs/s640/254b72a9-f14e-4dd1-92b0-0c6eb3ef3f21_zps26ebeb80.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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sort of in the middle of the ROM and RAM caugth my attention. Why just them you might ask? Well because they are Fujitsus, and Fujitsu TTLs from around the 80'es, just have a tendency to go bad at the moment. So they are all <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tDfZ5HmA6fs" target="_blank">Usual Suspects</a> when repairing PCBs from that period. In general this board is peppered with Fujitsu TTLs, but these sort of sat there in the middle of this cluster of non-Fujitsus and happen to be in the same area as the RAM and ROM. The <a href="http://pdf.datasheetcatalog.com/datasheets/70/375722_DS.pdf" target="_blank">74LS86</a>s are packs of 4 XOR gates. So again I tried to short some of the signal pins and found, and when I shorted pin 8 and 9 on the right of the twins<br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ZClqRs4TS4g/Whm9Qlq0Q_I/AAAAAAAABi4/SwRZv0gJbU48A289Npmjd5oIRencld84QCLcBGAs/s1600/00494F5F-8915-4619-9B71-6EB786469578_zpsoesnj3av.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1196" data-original-width="1600" height="478" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ZClqRs4TS4g/Whm9Qlq0Q_I/AAAAAAAABi4/SwRZv0gJbU48A289Npmjd5oIRencld84QCLcBGAs/s640/00494F5F-8915-4619-9B71-6EB786469578_zpsoesnj3av.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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the character layer changed to this<br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-kMQVPgw4KmE/Whm9gyA4VGI/AAAAAAAABjA/TbQaHOO-dqUd8P8Bqm0zmob7BWo2XL08wCLcBGAs/s1600/FB7BC285-1D99-4E71-A71D-01602BD2CE74_zpshs5odqds.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1196" data-original-width="1600" height="478" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-kMQVPgw4KmE/Whm9gyA4VGI/AAAAAAAABjA/TbQaHOO-dqUd8P8Bqm0zmob7BWo2XL08wCLcBGAs/s640/FB7BC285-1D99-4E71-A71D-01602BD2CE74_zpshs5odqds.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-_NDdfOLSTPk/Whm9w7EW3dI/AAAAAAAABjE/9eo_k-S4A7wAdJXFiXnzoguwSm5IOBQ3ACLcBGAs/s1600/7B01BC13-875F-45F0-8680-6F09A6CB350E_zpsx6x8xawo.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1196" data-original-width="1600" height="478" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-_NDdfOLSTPk/Whm9w7EW3dI/AAAAAAAABjE/9eo_k-S4A7wAdJXFiXnzoguwSm5IOBQ3ACLcBGAs/s640/7B01BC13-875F-45F0-8680-6F09A6CB350E_zpsx6x8xawo.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Hmmm, all the letters displayed correctly, but upside-down. Then tried flipping the dip switch to flip the picture<br />
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and when shortening the 2 pins again got this<br />
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Perfect character layer. Ha! Haaaaa! Surely on to something now };-P I peeked the inputs and the output of that gate<br />
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<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-08nvrohbl28/Whm-kmAy3yI/AAAAAAAABjU/jEn5oW1A98kp-qPaVTImZEGiIfQhieSQwCLcBGAs/s1600/A2B3E488-94A6-47F6-A437-BC168CB8FA81_zpsepk2ck84.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1196" data-original-width="1600" height="149" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-08nvrohbl28/Whm-kmAy3yI/AAAAAAAABjU/jEn5oW1A98kp-qPaVTImZEGiIfQhieSQwCLcBGAs/s200/A2B3E488-94A6-47F6-A437-BC168CB8FA81_zpsepk2ck84.jpg" width="200" /></a><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-rdzyl3jcljs/Whm-kh8n8ZI/AAAAAAAABjY/XGsKzVS3q1cwcpJbpVRFjd7l6nzAP4zSgCLcBGAs/s1600/B9D04508-6B29-4626-B851-BFD7BE91AB4D_zpstiuzsqwa.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1196" data-original-width="1600" height="149" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-rdzyl3jcljs/Whm-kh8n8ZI/AAAAAAAABjY/XGsKzVS3q1cwcpJbpVRFjd7l6nzAP4zSgCLcBGAs/s200/B9D04508-6B29-4626-B851-BFD7BE91AB4D_zpstiuzsqwa.jpg" width="200" /></a></div>
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and found one of the inputs floating. I traced the input to the output at pin 8 on the left Fujitsu 74LS86. I salvaged a 86 from a scrap board, piggybacked it on the left one</div>
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And got perfect character layer with both orientations };-P<br />
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<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Cpt06FLjcds/Whm_aZ6OFSI/AAAAAAAABj0/rAVAG7WSPwEzlt5BuyiGKHZ1mN5RU6P8gCLcBGAs/s1600/74522875-C06A-4C01-A2E2-C3F54089D704_zpsv4r7spe6.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1196" data-original-width="1600" height="478" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Cpt06FLjcds/Whm_aZ6OFSI/AAAAAAAABj0/rAVAG7WSPwEzlt5BuyiGKHZ1mN5RU6P8gCLcBGAs/s640/74522875-C06A-4C01-A2E2-C3F54089D704_zpsv4r7spe6.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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So out it went.<br />
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In my eager I accidently pulled out a via with it, but luckily it isn't connected to anything on the component side, so no worries. A socket was fitted and the salvaged 86 installed.<br />
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So now the graphics was a'okay... time to clean up that edge-connector-mess! With a combo of soldering iron, desoldering iron, solder wig, a whole lotta patience, and a final rub with rubbing alcohol<br />
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it actually ended up looking pretty okay in the end. I attached my full Capcom Classic adaptor and booted her up; but alas, no sound. So I dug up my external amp. It's actually just an old PC-speaker, where I've cut the jack plug and attached a crocodile clip for GND and an old multimeter probe for signal (actually it also good for listening on signal lines as well). Anyway, I heard sound from the speaker<br />
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Followed the sound to the fingerboard and found, that this was again a game that uses SPK- for signal and SKP+ for GND. As my SuperGun uses SPK+ for signal, that was why I didn't get any sound. So I finally pulled myself together, and <a href="https://www.facebook.com/elgensrepairs/posts/157517194418626" target="_blank">installed a switch</a> to flip the polarity of the sound in my SuperGun.<br />
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...better late that never, right };-P This closes the case...<br />
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Plz take care all you lovely people out there!<br />
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<3 Whole Lotta Love <3<br />
};-P ElgenElgenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09955625580194567794noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4064555688737648169.post-33392163220089849582014-10-04T22:23:00.004+02:002020-06-15T21:46:32.123+02:00Taito F3 Motherboard Repair Log<div style="text-align: right;">
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Finally BACK! ...from a faaar too long pause };-P</div>
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This little repair was done on-site at a gaming gathering I attended in <a href="https://www.google.dk/maps/@55.2236218,11.7381961,11z" target="_blank">Næstved</a>. My friend m1chelsen, who runs a <a href="https://www.youtube.com/user/MMAting" target="_blank">youtube channel</a> and a <a href="http://konsolting.blogspot.dk/" target="_blank">blog</a> about gaming and game collecting, has made a very nice looking <a href="http://konsolting.blogspot.dk/2014/02/projekt-consolized-taito-f3-del-1.html" target="_blank">consolization of a Taito F3 System</a>. The motherboard he had gotten for free, as it might have some trouble with the controls. Also, he didn't have any games to actually test it with, so he brougth to the geeky gathering, where some other people brought their F3 carts.<br />
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It worked! ... or let's say, it almost worked. It booted up perfectly, but the down direction for player 1 wasn't responding (and <a href="http://www.arcade-museum.com/game_detail.php?game_id=7702" target="_blank">Elevator Action Returns</a> really isn't that fun without). Luckily I'd brought some basic tools with me ... just in case };-P<br />
So after m1chelsen had freed the motherboard from the nice wooden casing<br />
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I started debugging. I followed the trace from the player 1 down pin on the fingerboard and found, that all the control inputs ends in some opto couplers (the 2 rows of white ICs; haven't really seen that before on an arcade board).<br />
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After googling the data sheet<br />
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I found that the LEDs inside have one end connected to Vcc via resistorarrays; the other end goes directly to the fingerboard. When the control is activated, the link to GND is made and the LED lights up activating the corresponding photosensitive transistor in the IC-pack.<br />
I tested the relevant resistorpack with the multimeter<br />
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and found, the resistor for player 1 down direction broken.<br />
Now we didn't have any spare resistor packs at hand nor a single resistor to patch on, and we wanted to play it like frakkin' now! So what to do? Hmmm <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pwQnEhA9k_k" target="_blank">think McFly, think</a>!<br />
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....DING! (the sound of Elgen getting one his crazy ideas };-P)...</div>
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Okay, the reasoning goes like this: Due to the very physical nature of a joystick, you can never activate both up AND down at the same time. So if I connect the down-LED to the up-resistor of the array as well, they will never "use" the resistor both at the same time. So no risk of drawing too much current. I soldered in a small jumper wire on the solderside of the board</div>
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... and BAM! Dear m1chelsen was now able to ride the elevator down in Elevator Action };-P</div>
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The motherboard was put back into the nice wooden case and was played several times during the weekend. This closes the case };-P</div>
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More blog posts is on it's way soon ... promise! Also remember, that you are also able to follow ElgensRepairs via <a href="http://www.facebook.com/elgensrepairs" target="_blank">Facebook</a>, <a href="http://twitter.com/ElgensRepairs" target="_blank">Twitter</a>, <a href="http://instagram.com/elgensrepairs" target="_blank">Instagram</a>.</div>
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<3 Love };-P Elgen <3</div>
Elgenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09955625580194567794noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4064555688737648169.post-28052993943449546962014-05-16T21:40:00.001+02:002020-06-15T21:46:05.072+02:00Incredible Technologies Strata Bowling Repair Log<div style="text-align: right;">
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About a year a year ago, I started becoming a Wednesday night regular at <a href="http://chassisarcade.dk/english/" target="_blank">Chassis Arcade</a> on <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/%C3%98sterbro" target="_blank">Østerbro, Copenhagen</a>. It's located in a basement in Faksegade, and on Wednesday nights, it's THE place to be. It's always packed with lovely and friendly people, there's funny contests, people are playing, talking and having a brewsky or two, and after the arcade closes at 10 o'clock, we hit a nearby <a href="http://oesterbrogade-shopping.dk/language/en/butik/bassinet-3589.html" target="_blank">pub</a> and have a few drinks. Ever since my first Wednesday there, a machine had been standing in the corner turned off. It was a <a href="http://www.arcade-museum.com/game_detail.php?game_id=9796" target="_blank">Strata Bowling</a>; not the one with the trackball depicted in the KLOV link, but actually the version that uses a real cue ball and IR-sensors to detect the direction and speed of the ball being thrown. The game is really cool, and behind the brand Strata actually stands <a href="http://www.arcade-museum.com/manuf_detail.php?manuf_id=1445&orig_game_id=6730" target="_blank">Incredible Technologies</a> that later made some very famous titles including the Golding Tee series.</div>
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The problem with this poor machine was, that it kept blowing the fuse on the logic board. Chriss and Julian (the owners of Chassis Arcade) had tried a few things, but couldn't get it to work, so they asked me if I'd have a look at it. And that's how the PCB ended up on my test bench.<br />
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The edge connector is (besides the controls) JAMMA compatible, so I didn't need to make an adaptor. I didn't have any fuses with the correct form factor (the big ones), so I started by just hooking up one the small ones using some crocodile test wires<br />
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however the game wouldn't start at all. Pretty soon I found out why<br />
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the poor board didn't get enough juice; I guess those test wires has way too much resistance in them. On the first picture I measure before the fuse, and on the second one after. So I made an alternative solution<br />
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I piggy backed the little fuse on top the big blown one. And now the game actually booted up... no blown fuse or anything!<br />
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I heard a fine start-up jingle, but the display wouldn't sync properly. I have had such problems before, due to the fact that I'm using a <a href="http://elgensrepairs.blogspot.dk/2012/12/finding-repairing-and-enhancing.html" target="_blank">Commodore monitor</a> for test instead of a real arcade monitor, so I just assumed that this was one of those cases as well; more on that later...<br />
The board now seemed to be booting to some extend, so before I returned it to Chriss and Julian, I decided to see if it might have any other obvious errors. A cell battery should always alert a conscientious arcade repper, and this was no exception<br />
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<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-1pWMR9amL8M/WhnIfuY2WoI/AAAAAAAABlw/LAJJW8B9rxEquWdSiWwpAr1p-v1r_pkPACLcBGAs/s1600/12F8F39F-7D89-4998-BB67-636D94A933BD_zpsp8ph3ny1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1196" data-original-width="1600" height="478" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-1pWMR9amL8M/WhnIfuY2WoI/AAAAAAAABlw/LAJJW8B9rxEquWdSiWwpAr1p-v1r_pkPACLcBGAs/s640/12F8F39F-7D89-4998-BB67-636D94A933BD_zpsp8ph3ny1.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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The battery is 3V, but gave a reading of 0.27V. So it was desoldered. I didn't have a replacement at that time, so I made this <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yOEe1uzurKo" target="_blank">rather crude solution</a> for a start<br />
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<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-wkvRKD3-cNw/WhnJGDewG5I/AAAAAAAABmA/PTnbdGbVntUGzaTwAOoxK2Jb_HfEX8zoACLcBGAs/s1600/56C979F3-C359-4A80-A9D9-912550047375_zpsvdch7acu.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1196" data-original-width="1600" height="149" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-wkvRKD3-cNw/WhnJGDewG5I/AAAAAAAABmA/PTnbdGbVntUGzaTwAOoxK2Jb_HfEX8zoACLcBGAs/s200/56C979F3-C359-4A80-A9D9-912550047375_zpsvdch7acu.jpg" width="200" /></a><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-WvOHFBBM2ho/WhnI-pVc6lI/AAAAAAAABl8/B8jhhNwAMtcJUPo5uaZQP9RZ46Cs-VfTACLcBGAs/s1600/00C40E07-9C88-40CF-B4A2-C90383B16102_zpsiu2ujaxf.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1196" data-original-width="1600" height="149" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-WvOHFBBM2ho/WhnI-pVc6lI/AAAAAAAABl8/B8jhhNwAMtcJUPo5uaZQP9RZ46Cs-VfTACLcBGAs/s200/00C40E07-9C88-40CF-B4A2-C90383B16102_zpsiu2ujaxf.jpg" width="200" /></a></div>
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just using 2 standard AAA batteries in series connected with wires. Now I was pretty confident, that the problems had been fixed, and that the syncing wouldn't be a problem once it got connected to a proper arcade monitor. So I proudly brought it back to the arcade...<br />
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After some time, Julian found time to connect it in the cab only to find, that the piggy backed fuse blew right away }:-( So home to me it went again.<br />
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It now sat on the shelf for a couple of weeks, while I was doing some other stuff. Amongst that, I had to hook a <a href="http://www.arcade-museum.com/game_detail.php?game_id=9183" target="_blank">Q*bert Qubes</a>, that uses positive horizontal and vertical sync instead of negative composite (as pretty much all JAMMA boards use), in my test bench. While googling on how to convert the syncing signal to composite negative sync, I learned that some PCBs actually has a dip switch setting to switch between positive and negative sync. Hmmmm, I wonder!?.... try looking at <a href="http://www.crazykong.com/manuals/StrataBowling.man.pdf" target="_blank">page 11 in the manual</a> (in the paragraph "SYNC").<br />
So I grabbed the board from the shelf, flipped SW1, made another crude "solution" to the fuse problem<br />
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<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-6xuIcLTdQzo/WhnJgK6xTAI/AAAAAAAABmI/0YghlD-_VdEZLWC31jhPp5wAWb5UD4bnACLcBGAs/s1600/C88667CA-48B8-4E4B-B003-81D2F1B47C2E_zpsdnaj04xo.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1196" data-original-width="1600" height="478" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-6xuIcLTdQzo/WhnJgK6xTAI/AAAAAAAABmI/0YghlD-_VdEZLWC31jhPp5wAWb5UD4bnACLcBGAs/s640/C88667CA-48B8-4E4B-B003-81D2F1B47C2E_zpsdnaj04xo.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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(plz don't try this at home), and applied power<br />
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<a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YrLk4vdY28Q" target="_blank">IT WORKS! };-P</a></div>
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I couldn't get the game to actually start due to the "CUE BALL IS MISSING"-detection, but when I hit the service button, it bought up the service menu</div>
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and I was able to playback some of the in-game cut-scenes (for strikes and so on) from there</div>
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<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-6WLhKtpzwDc/WhnK9V47ovI/AAAAAAAABmg/lBHVNydggp8C5G5oGcXtfp-kQ92qdb0yQCLcBGAs/s1600/576C79A2-CCEA-4317-9945-D33BC775EE30_zps5i7ttsap.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1196" data-original-width="1600" height="149" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-6WLhKtpzwDc/WhnK9V47ovI/AAAAAAAABmg/lBHVNydggp8C5G5oGcXtfp-kQ92qdb0yQCLcBGAs/s200/576C79A2-CCEA-4317-9945-D33BC775EE30_zps5i7ttsap.jpg" width="200" /></a><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-q6yHa4qNv4k/WhnK9Xz1S1I/AAAAAAAABmk/vp5H1Ajjps8Pefc7Jb7iaC1x4Z2gAWdWgCLcBGAs/s1600/38BA0B89-625A-4D25-B6D4-51EBB9229B68_zpsdlnzytw6.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1196" data-original-width="1600" height="149" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-q6yHa4qNv4k/WhnK9Xz1S1I/AAAAAAAABmk/vp5H1Ajjps8Pefc7Jb7iaC1x4Z2gAWdWgCLcBGAs/s200/38BA0B89-625A-4D25-B6D4-51EBB9229B68_zpsdlnzytw6.jpg" width="200" /></a></div>
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I wasn't too proud of the battery "solution" that I had come up with, so while I had the board back at the bench, I decided to make it a little bit nicer. I had this old PC-motherboard in the scrap pile. It had a battery of a different form factor, but still 3V... and it was placed in a battery holder.</div>
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<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-BSr2CTphWaU/WhnL1EY9mDI/AAAAAAAABm0/yn6E8XVqmVYxh6S78AXH0Mflc9ww-up1QCLcBGAs/s1600/F4C52581-F257-40D2-9966-8F0FFBCE76F1_zpsvrb8mlwu.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1196" data-original-width="1600" height="478" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-BSr2CTphWaU/WhnL1EY9mDI/AAAAAAAABm0/yn6E8XVqmVYxh6S78AXH0Mflc9ww-up1QCLcBGAs/s640/F4C52581-F257-40D2-9966-8F0FFBCE76F1_zpsvrb8mlwu.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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This type of batteries can be purchased in any bigger supermarket for about 10DKK (~$2) a piece, so that was a perfect solution. So desoldered the holder and attached a wire because of the different form factor</div>
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<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Td7-A0KbT6w/WhnMD9bv41I/AAAAAAAABm8/e2R5ek181c8Us89rrCFxoqyuwqiGin2XwCLcBGAs/s1600/9D3BA374-4050-4F4F-9A5A-DE5CE1BC5B13_zps5oors8mj.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1196" data-original-width="1600" height="478" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Td7-A0KbT6w/WhnMD9bv41I/AAAAAAAABm8/e2R5ek181c8Us89rrCFxoqyuwqiGin2XwCLcBGAs/s640/9D3BA374-4050-4F4F-9A5A-DE5CE1BC5B13_zps5oors8mj.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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and soldered it onto the board</div>
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I can see that it works perfectly, as when I take out the battery, the game boots with a message that the battery is dead. But when it's installed, it saves the settings I've made in the service menu.<br />
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The last thing to get settled, was the issue with the blowing fuse. So I tried using one of the small again, and the board booted perfectly. However, when I tried to boot it again the next day, the fuse blow right away.<br />
And THEN it struck me! I had been using fast (in danish: flink) fuses. These are designed to blow at the moment the current gets too high. Slow blow (in danish: træg) fuses however, can withstand a much higher current than what they are rated for, for a short period of time. Very close to the fuse are a couple of rather big electrolyte capacitors. When I booted the board with the "wired" fuse, these would get charged just fine, but when trying with the fast fuse, it would blow right away, because of the high current this charging generates. I couldn't find any documentation anywhere if this fuse should be fast or slow blow, but after seeing that the board runs just fine with a fast fuse once the caps are charged, I'm not in doubt.<br />
So on my way to the arcade that day, I bought a 10 pack of slow blows (in the right form factor), as I didn't have any, and handed them over along with the PCB. About a week later, Chriss and Julian sent me this awesome video<br />
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The 2 jolly arcade owners speaks danish in the video, but to recap they're telling, that the game now seems to work just fine, but that they are missing a ball of the right size. Should you, good reader, know anything about what ball to use, plz leave a comment.<br />
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So this ended up being more of a piece of detective work and hardly any real repairing. But that's how it is some times, and I'm just happy that it works, and I'm really looking forward too trying this game out };-P<br />
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(Don't forget to swing by my <a href="https://www.facebook.com/elgensrepairs" target="_blank">Facebook-page</a> and like it to get more frequent updates than just following the blog.)</div>
Elgenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09955625580194567794noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4064555688737648169.post-51080127311315892142014-04-07T00:21:00.000+02:002020-06-15T21:45:49.395+02:00Bubble Bobble Lost Cave & REDUX on same bootleg PCB<div style="text-align: right;">
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About a year ago, i managed to snap up a cheap defective <a href="http://elgensrepairs.blogspot.dk/2013/03/taito-bubble-bobble-bootleg-repair-log.html" target="_blank">bootleg Bobble Bobble</a> that I fixed and installed the <a href="http://forum.arcadeotaku.com/viewtopic.php?f=26&t=5154" target="_blank">REDUX ROM set</a> on. That works fantastic, but another exciting project is <a href="http://lostcave.wordpress.com/2012/12/11/let-us-take-you-down/" target="_blank">Lost Cave</a>, that originally released on December 11, 2012. It's a very ambitious fan project made by the 2 good fellows <a href="http://lostcave.wordpress.com/staff/" target="_blank">Bisboch & Aladar</a> and consists of 100 "new" levels for the original arcade game. "New" are in quotes, as it's actually the best levels from various ports, that have been backported to the original arcade platform. Along with that, it introduces a lot of new elements for example on the graphical side. The original release from 2012 only ran on original Taito hardware (and MAME), but when the authors discovered <a href="http://forum.arcadeotaku.com/viewtopic.php?f=26&t=5154" target="_blank">REDUX</a>, they got inspired to try and do a bootleg-PCB version as well; and as of <a href="http://lostcave.wordpress.com/2013/12/11/lost-cave-v1-2-released/" target="_blank">Lost Cave v1.2</a> (December 11, 2013) it also runs on bootleg boards (the kinds without a 68705; so the same criterion as running <a href="http://forum.arcadeotaku.com/viewtopic.php?f=26&t=5154" target="_blank">REDUX</a>).</div>
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I downloaded the <a href="http://lostcave.wordpress.com/download/" target="_blank">Lost Cave (bootleg)</a> ROM set and installed it on my board, and it worked like a charm; jawsome game! };-P Now Lost Cave is a whole new game with new levels and stuff; the original levels are not present in the game anymore. So I started thinking about how I could find an easy way to run both Lost Cave and REDUX on my board, without having the fuzz of swapping the ROMs every time.<br />
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The first thing to notice is, that all the ROMs on the board are 27256<br />
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Next thing to notice is, that EPROMs in the 27-series comes in "clusters" of form factors given by the type of DIP packages. So ie 2716 and 2732 are both DIP24, whereas 2764, 27128, 27256, 27512 are all DIP28 and so on. Now if you compare the pinouts of <a href="http://pdf.datasheetcatalog.com/datasheet/stmicroelectronics/2376.pdf" target="_blank">27256</a> and <a href="http://pdf.datasheetcatalog.com/datasheet/stmicroelectronics/2378.pdf" target="_blank">27512</a><br />
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you'll find, that they are almost identical with the exception of pins 1 and 22. The 27512 uses pin 1 as the extra address pin and have pin 22 double as both Output Enable (in reading mode) and Programming Voltage (in programming mode). Now pin 22 we don't have to worry about, as the EPROM will only operate in reading mode on the board. But pin 1 will allow us to switch between the upper and the lower 256K bits of the EPROM. This scheme is often referred to as <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bank_switching" target="_blank">bank switching</a> (at least when it's is done runtime, anyway), as you divide the address space of the ROMs into two separate banks that you can switch between.</div>
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Now to pull this through, I first had to identify the union set of all the ROMs that has to be swapped to go from straight bootleg to either REDUX or Lost Cave. Now the REDUX are marked with bow ties and the Lost Cave are marked with fezzes</div>
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...the union set is of cause just all the marked ROMs };-P. Please note, that on other bootlegs, these ROMs might have very different numbers/id's, so it's the position that's the important thing here.</div>
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Next I started doing the plumbing for the bank switching. First of all, I would need an ON-ON switch with +5V on one pole and GND on the other; the middle will then be the "bank switcher". I just happened to have a bag of tiny ON-ON switches stocked that fits into 3 successive holes on a DIL, so as bootlegs often has a lot of unused holes, I easily found some usable ones to clean up.</div>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-P_iwvNDTTtE/XiYQhE3iO_I/AAAAAAAAB9o/Y7y428h2YaISGUQr7o1e-rLD_h29HsBNQCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/AAEADE55-2EC0-4C12-AED6-F26E0A37B01C_zpsef6jadti.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1196" data-original-width="1600" height="478" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-P_iwvNDTTtE/XiYQhE3iO_I/AAAAAAAAB9o/Y7y428h2YaISGUQr7o1e-rLD_h29HsBNQCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/AAEADE55-2EC0-4C12-AED6-F26E0A37B01C_zpsef6jadti.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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and installed the switch</div>
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Next, the wires got soldered on on the solder side</div>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-USGpfXqeSaw/XiYR6j2UMgI/AAAAAAAAB98/BIelcn0hmWgqsEcTc5yksYO5q9ndz8zigCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/BB20E054-5343-40FE-9141-383EC3723492_zpsot1zbkzo.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1196" data-original-width="1600" height="478" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-USGpfXqeSaw/XiYR6j2UMgI/AAAAAAAAB98/BIelcn0hmWgqsEcTc5yksYO5q9ndz8zigCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/BB20E054-5343-40FE-9141-383EC3723492_zpsot1zbkzo.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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The red wire is +5V, the unisolated is GND, and the blue is the bank switch-wire.</div>
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Now on the main PCB, 3 of the 4 ROMs to be swapped (the 3 ones on a line), already had pin 1 tied to a GND-rail individually, so these connections had to be cut of course.</div>
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These are marked with 3 red arrows; I also accidentally (it was late at nite }:-S) cut the connection to pin 2 on the middle ROM (blue arrow). So that's why there is also a piece of red kynar to patch this up on the next pic showing how the pin 1's are connected to the bank switch-wire.</div>
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As you can see, the blue switch-wire ends at the ribbon cable connector</div>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-xk9I-pSg7Uk/XiYVMpekcSI/AAAAAAAAB-c/gNchv_HiTpQJvfZBDSoGPeoU_TiG3BKrQCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/030E96C8-59E5-4E8E-A8E1-FDCC1547E2A7_zpssklrrwgn.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1196" data-original-width="1600" height="478" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-xk9I-pSg7Uk/XiYVMpekcSI/AAAAAAAAB-c/gNchv_HiTpQJvfZBDSoGPeoU_TiG3BKrQCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/030E96C8-59E5-4E8E-A8E1-FDCC1547E2A7_zpssklrrwgn.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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That's because the switch-signal needs to be passed on to the secondary board. And as I didn't want any extra wires (that would have to be desoldered every time the board is taken a part), I choose to hijack one of the many GND wires on the ribbon cable (notice the cut). Now that was all the plumbing needed on the primary board. The secondary board was actually easier. Here, all the pin 1's on the ROMs was already interconnected, with a GND-connection in one end, and a connection to a resistor array in the other end. So only 2 cuts on the component side needed to be made</div>
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And then of cause, the connection to the hijacked ribbon pin had to be cut and connected</div>
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The last thing needed to pull this off, was the actual ROMs. Now as I'd dumped all the ROMs during the <a href="http://elgensrepairs.blogspot.dk/2013/03/taito-bubble-bobble-bootleg-repair-log.html" target="_blank">repair</a>, I had a full set of REDUX ROM files for my board. Also, before I even started, I'd checked that Lost Cave v1.2 would actually run on my board, so I had a full set of files for that too. So it was only a matter of combining the two sets, for each ROM that needed to be swapped. This is easily done ie in a Windows cmd prompt with the command</div>
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~> copy /b rom1 + rom2 combined_rom</blockquote>
for every pair of ROM files; of cause taking care, that the files from the same set were always first/last };-D<br />
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So I replaced all the 27256-ROMs to be swapped with the just programmed 27512-ROMs and fired up the board full of excitement };-P<br />
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Now that's just puuuure awesomeness, ain't it? };-P<br />
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As a last thing in this post, I wish to mention, that I've recently created a <a href="https://www.facebook.com/elgensrepairs" target="_blank">Facebook page</a>, that'll make it a bit easier to follow the blog. Here I'll post every time I make a new blog post, but also make minor posts about progress of current projects etc. I welcome you to visit, and 'like' if you wish to be updated on the stuff I do.<br />
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A whole lotta love from Yours Truly };-PElgenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09955625580194567794noreply@blogger.com38tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4064555688737648169.post-18413657642130875322014-03-23T02:52:00.002+01:002020-06-15T21:45:18.926+02:00Using GALs to replace small, sparse and/or redundant bipolar PROMs (Galaga bootleg)<div style="text-align: right;">
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If you've done repairs on some of the earlier arcade games (Galaga, Donkey Kong, Pac-Land etc.), you're likely to have encountered the type of components known as bipolar PROMs. These are PROMs based on TTL technology and are one-time-programmable (OTP), as you literally burn fuses when you program them. They are often pretty small in capacity but very fast, and on many boards, they are used for things like address decoding, sprite selection, pallets etc.</div>
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Now this whole project started out with me repairing an original <a href="http://elgensrepairs.blogspot.dk/2014/02/namcobally-midway-galaga-repair-log.html" target="_blank">Namco/Bally Midway Galaga</a> for my friend Muerto. During this, I found, that a bipolar PROM used for selecting sprites from the sprite-ROMs (i think?!) had a dead pin. Luckily, I had a bootleg Galaga containing the same PROM sitting on the shelf, and replacing with that solved the problem. But now I just a non-working bootleg.<br />
Now as bipolar PROMs are pretty old technology, blank ones are not easy and also a bit expensive to acquire; they will easily cost you $10 (or more) a piece + P&P on eBay. Also because of the technology being old, most new (even high end) programmers doesn't support programming them either; many doesn't even support reading them. So that means that you'll have to get some expensive hard-to-get vintage programmer and also expensive parts to get you PCB with broken bipolar PROMs up'n'running again. As I was not willing to spend that much green on a bootleg (that I btw had gotten for free at some point), I started thinking about alternatives to bipolar PROMs.<br />
The first thing the pops into mind, is trying to use some kind of EPROM. But when you try to look at the specs side by side, you'll quickly realize, that most EPROMs are much bigger in capacity (and while that is not a direct problem, it seems like a bit of a waste), but more seriously, the speeds of EPROMs are often about a factor 10 slower than the bipolar PROMs! So EPROMs were out...<br />
Next I started looking at different <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Programmable_logic_device" target="_blank">PLDs</a> and found, that the speeds of standard <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Programmable_logic_device#PAL" target="_blank">PALs</a> and <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Programmable_logic_device#GALs" target="_blank">GALs</a> are often comparable to that of bipolar PROMs or a bit faster. Moreover, almost any cheap ass modern universal programmer supports programming GALs, you can get new GALs for about $1 a piece on eBay, and you can erase them electronically and reprogram them.<br />
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I actually had 2 defective bipolar PROMs on the bootleg Galaga, that needed replacing. That was because when I realized how easy it was to read these in my <a href="http://elgensrepairs.blogspot.dk/2012/05/extending-usage-of-top2005-universal.html" target="_blank">Top2005+</a> using my own software <a href="https://github.com/elgendk/u2pa" target="_blank">u2pa</a>, I wanted to<br />
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on the Galaga PCB. But when I tried to get the one labeled "5" at position 5N out, I accidentally broke off the GND-pin. The break was so near the plastic, that a normal pin transplant wasn't an option, so enter <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=20soJuwWFH4" target="_blank">Mr. Dremel</a>. I managed to cut the plastic down so I could solder a bit of wire on the broken pin; it was good enough for dumping<br />
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but not at all durable enough to put back in the socket. This PROM must be involved in the final stages of the picture generation, cause when it's not in it's socket, all you get is a blank screen. I decided to start with that one, as it's a <a href="http://pdf1.alldatasheet.com/datasheet-pdf/view/100630/TI/TBP18S030.html" target="_blank">TI TBP18S030</a> (equivalent to the better known <a href="http://pdf1.alldatasheet.com/datasheet-pdf/view/15881/PHILIPS/N82S123A.html" target="_blank">Philips N82S123</a>),<br />
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that only holds 32 bytes (= 256 bits).<br />
Now in order to get started, I needed some way to generate the equivalent equations, so I wrote a little QAD method that generated the Boolean equations in the format of <a href="http://www.atmel.com/tools/WINCUPL.aspx" target="_blank">WinCUPL</a>, and hooked it up to the <a href="https://github.com/elgendk/u2pa" target="_blank">u2pa</a> <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Command-line_interface" target="_blank">CLI</a><br />
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If we start by looking at the raw dump<br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-b9hcT-4kMGM/XnR6QrPc5XI/AAAAAAAACBg/DLq7TxXDf7kZY9tUudXjkUTEueKTHonagCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/D7CE4C9D-8F75-4802-AAF8-864535460338_zpsgb8ahnkq.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1196" data-original-width="1600" height="478" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-b9hcT-4kMGM/XnR6QrPc5XI/AAAAAAAACBg/DLq7TxXDf7kZY9tUudXjkUTEueKTHonagCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/D7CE4C9D-8F75-4802-AAF8-864535460338_zpsgb8ahnkq.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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we'll see, that the 2 lines of bytes, are actually pretty redundant, and that's good, as we want to fit then into a logic unit. Next we take the raw WinCUPL equations generated by u2pa<br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-59aDcH5ciLA/XnR6iow6kZI/AAAAAAAACBo/4PGp4SA0nfU0IYQfpzqUk-3P3AZI0AW-QCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/FF0FBB5F-AE83-4E42-98C4-EFFA3EFB02B6_zpsw0oto1uv.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1196" data-original-width="1600" height="478" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-59aDcH5ciLA/XnR6iow6kZI/AAAAAAAACBo/4PGp4SA0nfU0IYQfpzqUk-3P3AZI0AW-QCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/FF0FBB5F-AE83-4E42-98C4-EFFA3EFB02B6_zpsw0oto1uv.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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cut them out, and make them into a real WinCUPL project. And I have to admit, that I was a bit surprised to find, that it compiled to a <a href="http://pdf1.alldatasheet.com/datasheet-pdf/view/88876/LATTICE/GAL16V8B.html" target="_blank">GAL16V8</a> right away };-P<br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-0kznNvyrSvg/XnR7YSeyoJI/AAAAAAAACBw/kX3ucTQRbiwydkJE07gz2IPJmrDjt3UfgCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/CE93EA8C-30FE-4EE1-BFBF-65CCD75141D0_zps68pyrqfh.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1196" data-original-width="1600" height="478" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-0kznNvyrSvg/XnR7YSeyoJI/AAAAAAAACBw/kX3ucTQRbiwydkJE07gz2IPJmrDjt3UfgCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/CE93EA8C-30FE-4EE1-BFBF-65CCD75141D0_zps68pyrqfh.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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At this point, the observant reader should already have noticed, that all the outputs of the GAL are on the "wrong" side, compared to the data pins on the bipolar PROM. Some kind of adaptor had to be made in order to make it fit onto the Galaga PCB. I choose this configuration of pins<br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-zCD-9m0qeuQ/XnR7sTqA4XI/AAAAAAAACB4/e2TWJJbEWt0gE31Dk_rMJJir2sdKiKFdgCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/0BEA5029-147F-4298-AA92-F88AB3533523_zpsfladbb0d.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1196" data-original-width="1600" height="149" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-zCD-9m0qeuQ/XnR7sTqA4XI/AAAAAAAACB4/e2TWJJbEWt0gE31Dk_rMJJir2sdKiKFdgCLcBGAsYHQ/s200/0BEA5029-147F-4298-AA92-F88AB3533523_zpsfladbb0d.jpg" width="200" /></a><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Rc0wkfzNRf4/XnR7znTHpHI/AAAAAAAACB8/c6tXNEaOBeg-a3OUfot-sDQ8qSknfS1qQCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/E6483E90-C015-4F19-83F5-74687B4DBA14_zpsj2m57dv4.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1196" data-original-width="1600" height="149" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Rc0wkfzNRf4/XnR7znTHpHI/AAAAAAAACB8/c6tXNEaOBeg-a3OUfot-sDQ8qSknfS1qQCLcBGAsYHQ/s200/E6483E90-C015-4F19-83F5-74687B4DBA14_zpsj2m57dv4.jpg" width="200" /></a></div>
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Again the observant reader might have discovered, that if you turn the GAL 180 degrees, you can get all but one pin to match the PROM (not including the Vcc and Gnd of cause).<br />
When I dumped the GAL using <a href="https://github.com/elgendk/u2pa" target="_blank">u2pa</a> with the above configuration and compared it to the original<br />
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it was a perfect match };-P<br />
So I started soldering up a small adaptor<br />
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Actually pretty easy, as almost all the pins match up };-P I dumped it as per the original PROM and still got the same correct result. So I cut it up<br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-A4cbxOppVjQ/XnR-U6YPIAI/AAAAAAAACCg/sUmwpxPeW5QtYX7IBIhHJ5_Y9cwD9xhogCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/C091DBCE-CFE7-4AAF-BE7F-C23F905D2BAB_zps4khlzbqa.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1196" data-original-width="1600" height="478" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-A4cbxOppVjQ/XnR-U6YPIAI/AAAAAAAACCg/sUmwpxPeW5QtYX7IBIhHJ5_Y9cwD9xhogCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/C091DBCE-CFE7-4AAF-BE7F-C23F905D2BAB_zps4khlzbqa.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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installed it in the socket<br />
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and BAM! had picture back on screen };-P<br />
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The Galagas still didn't look right, but that was expected. So now on to the next PROM...<br />
This one is a <a href="http://pdf1.alldatasheet.com/datasheet-pdf/view/28683/TI/TBP24S10.html" target="_blank">TI TBP24S10</a> (equivalent to the better known <a href="http://pdf.datasheetcatalog.com/datasheets/150/499952_DS.pdf" target="_blank">Philips N82S129</a>), a 4 x 256 bit PROM. As I'd only read ROMs that had a number of outputs being 8 or 16 until now, I had to make a little adjustment to the coding of <a href="https://github.com/elgendk/u2pa/commit/00c9c2462224d7dbd95a79eed9d05d1187509f00" target="_blank">u2pa</a> to make it work. The dump in MAME is made by just saving whole bytes padded with zeros, so I choose to do the same and use this configuration<br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Wck6d1uTWGw/XnSCWJBmFwI/AAAAAAAACDQ/KtJQgHVgIz4hA_-r3JxlKVLoXQ-tpR-ZwCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/A1BEAD27-7F4F-4ADC-BD7A-DFB13A43AA76_zpsn6fycqdp.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1196" data-original-width="1600" height="149" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Wck6d1uTWGw/XnSCWJBmFwI/AAAAAAAACDQ/KtJQgHVgIz4hA_-r3JxlKVLoXQ-tpR-ZwCLcBGAsYHQ/s200/A1BEAD27-7F4F-4ADC-BD7A-DFB13A43AA76_zpsn6fycqdp.jpg" width="200" /></a><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-u7dfaa60ZiY/XnSCViqp1sI/AAAAAAAACDM/cqrOcrWYKZ0L8rAAMVq9nHdm5goj8gQiwCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/2E69E8A0-174A-4550-8B62-3E75FCA337EF_zpsimfn90yd.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1196" data-original-width="1600" height="149" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-u7dfaa60ZiY/XnSCViqp1sI/AAAAAAAACDM/cqrOcrWYKZ0L8rAAMVq9nHdm5goj8gQiwCLcBGAsYHQ/s200/2E69E8A0-174A-4550-8B62-3E75FCA337EF_zpsimfn90yd.jpg" width="200" /></a></div>
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Even though this PROM potentially contained 1024 bits of data, only the first part actually had non-zero entries</div>
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So I was still pretty confident, that this would fit onto a GAL. So ran my equation generator, and made a WinCUPL project with a GAL16V8. But when trying to compile</div>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-R01g53NGRIc/XnSDMzjEcAI/AAAAAAAACDk/v334lLWLi3kj3K7GkRf2WyrD2e005XtUgCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/C4F26C63-C055-4910-A783-61F5A923E618_zpsnd069coh.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1196" data-original-width="1600" height="478" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-R01g53NGRIc/XnSDMzjEcAI/AAAAAAAACDk/v334lLWLi3kj3K7GkRf2WyrD2e005XtUgCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/C4F26C63-C055-4910-A783-61F5A923E618_zpsnd069coh.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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I got "excessive number of product terms" on all 4 outputs. Now at this point, being all new to WinCUPL, I didn't knew, that minimization was not 'on' by default, but that you have to turn it on (you should use Expresso) in the compiler options (this was something <a href="http://www.jammarcade.net/" target="_blank">porchy</a> told me later on)</div>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-UfSjUnoev0E/XnSDhAl2zNI/AAAAAAAACDs/CtaXyUu1JWYH_te-Yor4osTtHA59_TfDQCEwYBhgL/s1600/9727B34C-2260-416C-B62B-808F0645E2BA_zps11mhlfpk.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1196" data-original-width="1600" height="478" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-UfSjUnoev0E/XnSDhAl2zNI/AAAAAAAACDs/CtaXyUu1JWYH_te-Yor4osTtHA59_TfDQCEwYBhgL/s640/9727B34C-2260-416C-B62B-808F0645E2BA_zps11mhlfpk.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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So I started 'hand reducing' the equations. Actually now afterwards, I find it kind of cool, as you get a whole new feel for the equations, and they have a very satisfying aesthetic look (oh yeah, just go ahead and call me crazy; but being both a mathematician and a computer scientist, I can't help it };-P).</div>
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One of the first things I noticed from just looking at the raw dump in a binary editor was, that every 4th entry was F (1111). So every time A0 and A1 was 0, all 4 outputs was 1, meaning that all entries from the 4 outputs starting with 00 could be removed, and replaced by a single line for every output</div>
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Dn = !A0 & !A1 & !(A2 & A3 & A4 & A5) & !A6 & !A7</blockquote>
where the "!(A2 & A3 & A4 & A5)" part is because, we want this to stop when we reach the point, where all entries are 0.<br />
Next I found quite a few pairs of entries, where the only difference between the two, was that one started with 01 and the other with 10. Now these can of cause be combined into one starting with (A0 # A1) (XOR).<br />
So now I was down to a respectable number of equations for each output, but when I compiled I still got "excessive number of product terms" for 3 of the outputs. It was actually also at this point, that I turned on minimizing, but that didn't do any difference at all }:-S<br />
Then I got the idea of trying a bigger GAL with more available product terms per output, namely a GAL22V10. And when changing to that, it frakking compiled without errors };-P For this GAL-replacement, I'd choosen this pin configuration<br />
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That way, it could act like a drop-in replacement (with part of the IC hanging out to the back of the socket, though) if I just connected pin 8 and 12 for proper grounding.<br />
My only problem now, was that I didn't have any of those gorram 22V10. So I ordered some on eBay and waited.... and Waited.... and WAITED!.... and FINALLY<br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-xRcNQe73aeQ/XnSE6f9ttII/AAAAAAAACEA/qiEapwMyzNg0vOovl1waamJ13moR26D5ACLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/B7371A41-3B5F-4C9D-93BD-BBA589E5C677_zpsvxazfa4s.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1196" data-original-width="1600" height="149" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-xRcNQe73aeQ/XnSE6f9ttII/AAAAAAAACEA/qiEapwMyzNg0vOovl1waamJ13moR26D5ACLcBGAsYHQ/s200/B7371A41-3B5F-4C9D-93BD-BBA589E5C677_zpsvxazfa4s.jpg" width="200" /></a><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-quSiBPA7H7k/XnSFD9fyxCI/AAAAAAAACEE/Nv_ODOwEnnQ5_6il567zV-0fPtO7xZMPACLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/086C4F68-E595-449D-81B5-190C796277AD_zpsjipcqlkr.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1196" data-original-width="1600" height="149" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-quSiBPA7H7k/XnSFD9fyxCI/AAAAAAAACEE/Nv_ODOwEnnQ5_6il567zV-0fPtO7xZMPACLcBGAsYHQ/s200/086C4F68-E595-449D-81B5-190C796277AD_zpsjipcqlkr.jpg" width="200" /></a></div>
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they arrived from China };-P I rushed to program one, dump it with u2pa, and test it against the original image<br />
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A perfect match! Sweet! };-P Next up was the big test on the actual board<br />
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(using a little jumper wire for ground connection), AAAAAAAND<br />
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IT WORKED! The Galagas were now back to normal!<br />
To finish this up nicely, I choose to desolder the old socket from the board, and install a slightly bigger one, with pin 8 and 12 interconnected<br />
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Of course there wasn't holes on the PCB for the extra pins, so these were just removed<br />
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By the way, after I finished this project, I actually (by mere coincidence while googling... I don't know why it hadn't occurred to me to google "bipolar prom gal" before, but it hadn't) found <a href="http://www.retroclinic.com/leopardcats/galprom/galprom.htm" target="_blank">this page</a> by <a href="http://www.retroclinic.com/" target="_blank">retroclinic</a>. Here he uses a truth table instead of (as I) equations, so I decided to try that out also, as it somehow seems easier. So I made a tiny addition to my processing method, so it could output a truth table as well. But when I compiled and programmed the resulting jed-file for the first GAL16V8 and dumped again, I actually got some differences compared to original image; a few bit were flipped. First I thought, that it was my simple method to generate the truth table that had a bug, but I've been over the code several times, and I can't find any errors (if you find one, please let me know, and I'll fix it). So my theory at the moment is, that I've found a bug in the WinCUPL compiler. So I think I'll stick to equations in the future... being a mathematician, I actually also fancy them more };-P<br />
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Should you ever want to try this at home yourself, the dumps of the bipolar PROMs for games containing them, is often part of the MAME ROMs. If you want to try my equation generator, it's now a part of <a href="https://github.com/elgendk/u2pa" target="_blank">u2pa</a>; the help entry can be seen with the command<br />
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~>u2pa help bdump process</blockquote>
Remember, that if you own a Top2005+, <a href="https://github.com/elgendk/u2pa" target="_blank">u2pa</a> also has support for reading a lot of bipolar PROMs now.<br />
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WinCUPL can be downloaded <a href="http://www.atmel.com/tools/WINCUPL.aspx" target="_blank">here</a>.<br />
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Last but not least, the pld's and the jed's I produced for Galaga, can be downloaded <a href="https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/37604286/Galaga_GAL_Replacements.zip" target="_blank">here</a>.<br />
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I wish to thank <a href="http://www.jammarcade.net/" target="_blank">porchy</a> for his big help and support on this project, as I didn't knew much about GALs or WinCUPL when I started out.Elgenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09955625580194567794noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4064555688737648169.post-64039512056725248072014-02-01T16:16:00.002+01:002020-06-15T21:45:02.777+02:00Namco/Bally Midway Galaga Repair Log<div style="text-align: right;">
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My dear friend (and also active user on many UK and Danish forums) Muerto asked me to have a look at his original <a href="http://www.arcade-museum.com/game_detail.php?game_id=7881" target="_blank">Namco/Bally Midway Galaga</a>. When he bought it years ago, he tested it and found that some of the sprites were displayed twice on screen. So it was put on a shelf and have been sitting there just waiting for someone to have a go at trying to repair it. When it arrived on my bench, it looked like this</div>
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The board doesn't have video connections at the edge connector; they must be drawn from a molex on the video board<br />
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I didn't have a plug to fit this molex, so I cheated a bit, and soldered 4 wires (R, G, B, and sync) directly onto the solderside of the board along with the other wires from the edge connector. I fired it up, and got this<br />
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A solid yellow-ish screen and no sound at all };-( So I started examining the main CPU (this board has 3 x Z80 CPUs) for CLOCK signal<br />
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Hmmm, looks nice and healthy. Next up was the RESET signal</div>
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The signal jumped low about 2 or 3 times a second... the watch dog was barking ever so loudly! At this point, it's always good to check the ROMs, so you can rule out any software error from the equation; <a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=39wfkpisq7o" target="_blank">So be it!</a></div>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-aCtxEYcyrZE/XpIf65F6j8I/AAAAAAAACJg/6zGc0XBJy_cWaj6H5EViO7ZI76xIa0SqQCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/218F3A7C-D1B2-4435-A5FD-799589DA67F1_zpsqacjdgys.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1196" data-original-width="1600" height="478" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-aCtxEYcyrZE/XpIf65F6j8I/AAAAAAAACJg/6zGc0XBJy_cWaj6H5EViO7ZI76xIa0SqQCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/218F3A7C-D1B2-4435-A5FD-799589DA67F1_zpsqacjdgys.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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They all seemed to be in good shape and verified nicely against MAME. It was then I started to have a closer look at the custom ICs on this board</div>
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All of them, with no exception, had extremely corroded pins! And when trying to gently free the poor customs from their sockets (with my trusty flathead screwdriver), some of them lost a pin or two due to the extensive amount of corrosion</div>
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(the last two photos above are taken AFTER I've cleaned the ICs from the corrosion)</div>
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The first two ICs, I cleaned as I usually do by scraping the corrosion off using a Stanley knife. Next I patched new pins (taken from scrapped ICs) on where they had broken off and then gave all the pins a thin layer of solder.</div>
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Ready to be plugged into the socket again! };-P Now the Stanley knife-method works well, but for 10+ ICs it becomes quite cumbersome. So after the two first customs it suddenly struck me! I remembered, that my lovely <a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hgKLhzArQTI" target="_blank">Dremel</a> (How can any man live without one? Still think that every boy should be given one at birth: Congrats Daddy, it's a healthy boy, and here's his Dremel; please keep it safe until he's old enough to use it!) actually come with a steel brush, that I didn't have had the opportunity to use yet. So fitted the brush and tried carefully and at the slowest possible speed</div>
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The result was simply fan-frakking-tastic! };-P</div>
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And each pin only took about 2-3 seconds to clean! };-O So I spend an evening cleaning ICs and patching up broken pins on the main board. With one of the ICs a broken piece of pin actually got jammed in the socket</div>
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So I had to desolder the socket</div>
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and fit a new one</div>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-y4EA3yhNHLg/XpIlHyVlc1I/AAAAAAAACLE/MhnPs5VEvEwX2gJiPYSclXqyZvbSW6SGwCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/79E0FB6B-1961-4246-A556-452F185B3D97_zpsif4b3zuv.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1196" data-original-width="1600" height="478" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-y4EA3yhNHLg/XpIlHyVlc1I/AAAAAAAACLE/MhnPs5VEvEwX2gJiPYSclXqyZvbSW6SGwCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/79E0FB6B-1961-4246-A556-452F185B3D97_zpsif4b3zuv.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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When I was finished with cleaning ICs on the main board, I decided to try and hook it up in the test rig again. However, in the meantime I had gotten hold of a cheap original defective <a href="http://www.arcade-museum.com/game_detail.php?game_id=8955" target="_blank">Namco/Bally Midway Pac-Land</a> with an adaptor for some obscure standard that I haven't seen before</div>
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(properly some Belgian standard, as the seller (eBay) was from Belgium).</div>
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Now Pac-Land and Galaga uses the same pinout, and in particular the same molex for video, so I desoldered the obscure finger board, and fitted a JAMMA one.</div>
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And when I flipped the switch, there was movement on the screen... the board self test. And after the test completed, the attract mode started playing with sound and all</div>
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Now this was progress for sure! However, the screen was kind of purple-ish (doesn't show that well on the photos because of the quality of my iPhone camera and the quality of me as a photographer) and the "kidnappers" (the ones the can capture your fighter) only showed up as square red dots when hovering on the top of the screen. But when they did a dive, they looked perfectly fine.</div>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-pKuMaEpFa2A/XsA_IEviYxI/AAAAAAAACM4/STwHJq_PM64W4SYdRpmktj4xlxO_14XcwCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/59408f0e-b2bb-4026-b7fb-4a539d3a29d0_zps815418fa.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1196" data-original-width="1600" height="478" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-pKuMaEpFa2A/XsA_IEviYxI/AAAAAAAACM4/STwHJq_PM64W4SYdRpmktj4xlxO_14XcwCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/59408f0e-b2bb-4026-b7fb-4a539d3a29d0_zps815418fa.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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With all the customs on the video board was also corroded, I still hoped that a clean-up there might fix the problems. So yet again I spend an whole evening Dremeling, solder coating, and patching broken pins. Also had to replace a socket here due to a jammed broken pin, MOAN! };-S</div>
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And worst of all: When I fired up the board again, it hadn't changes a flying frak! Neither the purple-ish nor the broken kidnappers were looking even the slightest bit different! MOAN! MOAN! };-(</div>
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Well on the bright side, it was now time for some REAL hardware debugging instead of just doing clean-up };-P So I dug up the <a href="http://antelopearcade.com/files/Arcade%20Manuals/GALAGA_%28PARTS_%26_OPERATING%29_%28U%29.pdf" target="_blank">schematics</a> and started scrutinizing it. As i'd already checked all the EPROMs, my first suspect was the sprite RAMs (the 8 ones on the far back of the video board)</div>
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They are 2147 1-bit SRAM in two clusters of 4 (byte wide all in all). So I started hitting them with the scope. But when I touched the data lines with the probe, weird stuff happend on screen</div>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-BGjHoD6WmXw/XsBAGZ0nj0I/AAAAAAAACNM/OQUWngMU64AW-1z3C_bv45K7Y4w7X1oEACLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/4B3087CD-218B-4BA2-9126-80A49125CB29_zpspn1qj1cc.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1196" data-original-width="1600" height="149" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-BGjHoD6WmXw/XsBAGZ0nj0I/AAAAAAAACNM/OQUWngMU64AW-1z3C_bv45K7Y4w7X1oEACLcBGAsYHQ/s200/4B3087CD-218B-4BA2-9126-80A49125CB29_zpspn1qj1cc.jpg" width="200" /></a><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-onEDLTgVYko/XsBAP3ZNoOI/AAAAAAAACNQ/167rJPqBICQGrDTUcg23Vn4-paRwE30JgCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/F9061130-E8E4-4791-8D40-A580B504B971_zps5jx2myv2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1196" data-original-width="1600" height="149" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-onEDLTgVYko/XsBAP3ZNoOI/AAAAAAAACNQ/167rJPqBICQGrDTUcg23Vn4-paRwE30JgCLcBGAsYHQ/s200/F9061130-E8E4-4791-8D40-A580B504B971_zps5jx2myv2.jpg" width="200" /></a></div>
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This can be an indication, that something is not driving the lines properly, or the values of the pull-ups might either be too high or too low. Anyway, at this point, I suspected something wrong with the sprite RAMs themselves. I didn't have any 2147 stocked, but looking at the schematics I found, that the video board may be configured in two ways: Either (as this one) with 8 x 2147 or with 2 x 2148 (4 bit SRAMs). This was actually a quite normal thing for manufactures to do back then, as the prices on SRAM were relatively high and also fluctuating. So this way they could wait until the last minute to decide on which to use, thereby keeping the cost of components at a minimum. I did actutually have 2 x 2148 SRAMs on a scrap board, so I harvested these, cleaned the solder holes</div>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-kk-5ERLKxVU/XsBBPiP_ytI/AAAAAAAACNo/jyTtq-eWBK0LtMBweSqDzPiIleNJD12-gCPcBGAYYCw/s1600/4630FD71-F1DD-43D5-9808-2A47CE74128F_zps37zmf5wr.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1196" data-original-width="1600" height="478" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-kk-5ERLKxVU/XsBBPiP_ytI/AAAAAAAACNo/jyTtq-eWBK0LtMBweSqDzPiIleNJD12-gCPcBGAYYCw/s640/4630FD71-F1DD-43D5-9808-2A47CE74128F_zps37zmf5wr.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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fitted sockets and the harvested 2148s, and popped out the 2147s</div>
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But <a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bSyIuFOPHDI" target="_blank">alas (ear wax)</a>, when I fired up the board, the screen looked precisely the same };-/ Now it would be a very strange coincidence, if the old 8 x 2147 RAMs clustered together, should show precisely the same error on screen as the 2 x 2148. So I assumed, that sprite RAMs were ok. Hmmm, well back to reading them schematics</div>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-X-qzAr5w2JY/XsBCZe4OlpI/AAAAAAAACN0/ZjpoEPfR4iwoXHN81ahxexSIlqaXftvDwCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/BE04D268-3C8F-43A2-99B7-F4AF15B05C9B_zpsmnjh6szf.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1196" data-original-width="1600" height="478" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-X-qzAr5w2JY/XsBCZe4OlpI/AAAAAAAACN0/ZjpoEPfR4iwoXHN81ahxexSIlqaXftvDwCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/BE04D268-3C8F-43A2-99B7-F4AF15B05C9B_zpsmnjh6szf.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Also on these datalines is the Namco custom IC that generates the actual sprites by mixing the signals from the data lines placed on the far right on the picture above. However, if that was broken, I'd be frakked anyway, so I assumed, that it was ok too. The last things directly on these lines, was the 2 transceivers in the middle of the picture (marked with 2 circles). When peeking the lines on the topmost of these, I discovered, that one of them was stuck high.</div>
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The input seemed to be active, so desoldered the 298 TTL, but in my eager accidentally broke a couple of pins. However, I was determined to get it tested in the Top, so I quikly fitted some header strips as new pins. But it tested good in the Top</div>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-cwlAXjyEj_Y/XsBDENhYkHI/AAAAAAAACOE/7_oB5X252VMoJ8hOlvsMLy6rgJ6nXZc8ACLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/1DB4F15B-A5E7-46D5-AAE9-24DE6965D3DA_zps31xniqcw.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1196" data-original-width="1600" height="478" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-cwlAXjyEj_Y/XsBDENhYkHI/AAAAAAAACOE/7_oB5X252VMoJ8hOlvsMLy6rgJ6nXZc8ACLcBGAsYHQ/s640/1DB4F15B-A5E7-46D5-AAE9-24DE6965D3DA_zps31xniqcw.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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So fitted the pathed-up 298 again, as I was "in da zone" and just wanted to move on...</div>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-VB0A99Tc8_g/XsBDYzHWg6I/AAAAAAAACOM/usyV7mMgmu8ZDDikOKODO9cG8E8DgzYvwCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/0C11B001-AE64-4C26-AA79-8D0B1FF71175_zps1ivozu8k.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1196" data-original-width="1600" height="478" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-VB0A99Tc8_g/XsBDYzHWg6I/AAAAAAAACOM/usyV7mMgmu8ZDDikOKODO9cG8E8DgzYvwCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/0C11B001-AE64-4C26-AA79-8D0B1FF71175_zps1ivozu8k.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Hmmm, the signal on the input of the stuck line still looked more-or-less ok on the scope. But maybe the lows wasn't quite as low as on the other inputs?! (haven't got a picture of this, sadly). At this point, my new Logic Probe (with audio feedback) had arrived in the mail, and I decided to test it, as sometimes it can be had to see on a scope, if the signals actually reaches the logical thresholds. As one can see, the only thing connected to the inputs, are the outputs from the bipolar prom in the lower left corner of the schematics picture. So lifted the suspect pin along with one other out of the socket, and hit them with the probe. First the suspect</div>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Z-WnqNdeUtM/XsBDuPQd33I/AAAAAAAACOY/yJM3CQLPPAEAUNzMZfWIhWYjg-YuXUijwCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/928C0BD0-7DAA-403D-968E-A9EB46C84A04_zpsqtqj4rlp.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1196" data-original-width="1600" height="478" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Z-WnqNdeUtM/XsBDuPQd33I/AAAAAAAACOY/yJM3CQLPPAEAUNzMZfWIhWYjg-YuXUijwCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/928C0BD0-7DAA-403D-968E-A9EB46C84A04_zpsqtqj4rlp.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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and then the assumed good</div>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-SuXtRrN460M/XsBEBgAqIsI/AAAAAAAACOg/SMniSGlrvKokQjHgRaOsP0Xw29oDve_owCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/FCA2A085-A70A-43B3-BD5A-92155F783A8E_zpsenksdrek.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1196" data-original-width="1600" height="478" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-SuXtRrN460M/XsBEBgAqIsI/AAAAAAAACOg/SMniSGlrvKokQjHgRaOsP0Xw29oDve_owCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/FCA2A085-A70A-43B3-BD5A-92155F783A8E_zpsenksdrek.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Now of cause, as the pins were now out of the socket, they were not pulled by the pull-ups. But as this pin was stuck HIGH (and not low), that couldn't explain what I saw. To be sure, I peeked the inputs to the PROM, and they were all active. I'd finally found a culprit! };-P However, I don't have any readers that can read/write bipolar PROMs, so what now? I then remembered, that I had a working bootleg Galaga on the shelf. So I found the corresponding place on the bootleg</div>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-wv7ZaQdbuKE/XsBEUCNgUtI/AAAAAAAACOo/16GT9U4oM2U6GKFQgf-dJzmuAHj50klZQCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/CCB07689-F1BC-4253-B26D-989523A9B547_zps5kxzdz8x.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1196" data-original-width="1600" height="478" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-wv7ZaQdbuKE/XsBEUCNgUtI/AAAAAAAACOo/16GT9U4oM2U6GKFQgf-dJzmuAHj50klZQCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/CCB07689-F1BC-4253-B26D-989523A9B547_zps5kxzdz8x.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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and compared it to the original</div>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-pv55RR0VO4k/XsBEw4te-MI/AAAAAAAACOw/hi0nfitSriYDQmOtf3LDR9mC2M5fhuADACLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/9B796F8A-F144-492B-ADBF-C41FFA3E8F1E_zpszwidqhvb.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1196" data-original-width="1600" height="478" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-pv55RR0VO4k/XsBEw4te-MI/AAAAAAAACOw/hi0nfitSriYDQmOtf3LDR9mC2M5fhuADACLcBGAsYHQ/s640/9B796F8A-F144-492B-ADBF-C41FFA3E8F1E_zpszwidqhvb.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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It looked almost identical, and the ICs on either sides of the PROM (marked "5" on the bootleg) was the same. I googled the pinout for TBP24S10N and found it to be the same same as on the original schematics. So I slammed the bootleg PROM into the original Galaga, aaaaand... PRESTO!</div>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-2bc5g-vXrQc/XsBFECBI8YI/AAAAAAAACO8/p19iEswr-FkEc0fXKkc13CNYNavSnhPTQCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/4BB31400-8BEC-4702-8EF4-DAC2F2113017_zpsbiuvnc4c.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1196" data-original-width="1600" height="478" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-2bc5g-vXrQc/XsBFECBI8YI/AAAAAAAACO8/p19iEswr-FkEc0fXKkc13CNYNavSnhPTQCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/4BB31400-8BEC-4702-8EF4-DAC2F2113017_zpsbiuvnc4c.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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The kidnappers looked normal, even when floating at the top of the screen. So I fitted a 298 harvested from a scrap board for the patched up one, to close this up nicely.</div>
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Now I was down to, that the only thing wrong with this game, was the overall purple-ish look of the screen. So I disconnected the video plug, and peeked the colour signals</div>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-c5FJaMAQRAY/XsBF43gxRgI/AAAAAAAACPM/YLV3thH4br8zTtpzatdkK_Vszf1vudCYwCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/33A695BE-4EAA-4FE9-98E2-2E84295085D9_zps3gwecnzk.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1196" data-original-width="1600" height="149" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-c5FJaMAQRAY/XsBF43gxRgI/AAAAAAAACPM/YLV3thH4br8zTtpzatdkK_Vszf1vudCYwCLcBGAsYHQ/s200/33A695BE-4EAA-4FE9-98E2-2E84295085D9_zps3gwecnzk.jpg" width="200" /></a><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-72zAVMMd1bo/XsBF9dvzZ2I/AAAAAAAACPQ/bbpxdQqmsjw-edgpInYjAY-bdwMYc6ZEwCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/82D2DB46-1938-4EDA-93E9-8C0A225A5FB1_zpsfiqangfj.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1196" data-original-width="1600" height="149" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-72zAVMMd1bo/XsBF9dvzZ2I/AAAAAAAACPQ/bbpxdQqmsjw-edgpInYjAY-bdwMYc6ZEwCLcBGAsYHQ/s200/82D2DB46-1938-4EDA-93E9-8C0A225A5FB1_zpsfiqangfj.jpg" width="200" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-g2i-1l3kcBU/XsFVail7H2I/AAAAAAAACPg/Hv7UrzSmiq4O1VZ5-qXIcxX7OxQScBPBACLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/DE4B97E7-DFE9-4374-B697-067301EBAB19_zps9y9zqhlk.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1196" data-original-width="1600" height="149" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-g2i-1l3kcBU/XsFVail7H2I/AAAAAAAACPg/Hv7UrzSmiq4O1VZ5-qXIcxX7OxQScBPBACLcBGAsYHQ/s200/DE4B97E7-DFE9-4374-B697-067301EBAB19_zps9y9zqhlk.jpg" width="200" /></a><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-H7NZF2_zwDI/XsFVmNnKlpI/AAAAAAAACPk/BwO56rpSqx09RlYhulMckEIHRFBVum5YQCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/CA662B3B-09DE-438F-8377-74C759D9DAB1_zpsdpde6va6.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1196" data-original-width="1600" height="149" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-H7NZF2_zwDI/XsFVmNnKlpI/AAAAAAAACPk/BwO56rpSqx09RlYhulMckEIHRFBVum5YQCLcBGAsYHQ/s200/CA662B3B-09DE-438F-8377-74C759D9DAB1_zpsdpde6va6.jpg" width="200" /></a></div>
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From the last pictures, it was obvious that one of them was dead. Looking at the solder side, I was relieved, as I found that the trace was broken just before the solder patch (the middle one)</div>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-2BSXe58Uco4/XsFWDN78PgI/AAAAAAAACPs/xkzmu4TloksX9Y1o1tndRBC0UltGK1SeACLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/45AB79BE-AD62-4D03-8F01-2AA03517C135_zpsrujkbav2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1196" data-original-width="1600" height="478" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-2BSXe58Uco4/XsFWDN78PgI/AAAAAAAACPs/xkzmu4TloksX9Y1o1tndRBC0UltGK1SeACLcBGAsYHQ/s640/45AB79BE-AD62-4D03-8F01-2AA03517C135_zpsrujkbav2.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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As the one on the rigth in the picture looked like it could snap at any time too</div>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-vxIiP_Adcc8/XsFWa5xapKI/AAAAAAAACP0/yAO6fxHV58Ms9KnpS7_Nsw_y2ojQ6EZRACLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/AF309340-39C3-4411-8728-28312C5E99E3_zpsun5vt0hz.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1196" data-original-width="1600" height="478" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-vxIiP_Adcc8/XsFWa5xapKI/AAAAAAAACP0/yAO6fxHV58Ms9KnpS7_Nsw_y2ojQ6EZRACLcBGAsYHQ/s640/AF309340-39C3-4411-8728-28312C5E99E3_zpsun5vt0hz.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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I patched both for good measure, and all the colours was now clear and crisp. So now the game was all good to go, PEW! };-P</div>
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Now what about the poor working bootleg that he harvested the bipolar PROM from, you might think?! Oh, well it wouldn't be Elgen, if he didn't have a crazy idea for a future project, would it? So I made some minor changes to <a href="https://code.google.com/p/u2pa/source/list" target="_blank">u2pa</a> (my own GPL sofware for the cheap Top2005+ Programmer) enabling it to read the 2 types of bipolar PROMs used on Galaga, so I would be able to test them against MAME in the future. I actually also tested the one that I used for the original, to be sure it's the same as the dump in MAME, and it is };-P I now began thinking, if I maybe could use some other programmable device that my equipment can handle in place of the PROM; even though I was now able to read the bipolar PROMs, programming them is a whole different ball game. The first thing that popped into mind, was using an EPROM, but they are far too slow; about a factor 10 slower access time than bipolar PROMs. Then I thought about using a GAL, but at this is a logical device, the PROM dump would have to fit into a truth table for it to be doable. I now contacted my dear friend <a href="http://www.jammarcade.net/" target="_blank">porchy</a>, who is far more experienced into the world of GALs than me. After having had a glance at the dump file and the Galaga schematics, his verdict was that it might very well be doable. Cool };-P So I made a small QAD command line tool, that generates (unreduced) equations that can be used in <a href="http://www.atmel.com/tools/wincupl.aspx" target="_blank">CUPL</a> from a dump of a bipolar PROM; it's included in the u2pa package (if your not friendly with hg, a current snapshot of the repo can be found <a href="https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/37604286/u2pa/u2paSnapshot0140129.zip" target="_blank">here</a>, if you're interested in having a look at it). I haven't come any further at this point, as I have some other repairs queued up. But I'll definitely look into it in the future };-P</div>
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After Muerto recieved the game, he sent me these nice pictures and YouTube-links of it running in his original dedicated Bally Midway cab. Enjoy! };-P<br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-qt6QF-Lbgr0/XsFW274KzCI/AAAAAAAACQA/x0M5UdRLzOUJ_4j3nRcezVO_lkQ2zOizgCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/galagaworks5_zpsb65ba461.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="800" height="200" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-qt6QF-Lbgr0/XsFW274KzCI/AAAAAAAACQA/x0M5UdRLzOUJ_4j3nRcezVO_lkQ2zOizgCLcBGAsYHQ/s200/galagaworks5_zpsb65ba461.jpg" width="133" /></a><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-f4iUVeb_OiI/XsFW28JPXwI/AAAAAAAACQE/-ijvI6G2tK4vgF_C_CP40-2qL4spm3i_wCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/galagaworks10_zps5366a49c.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="800" height="200" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-f4iUVeb_OiI/XsFW28JPXwI/AAAAAAAACQE/-ijvI6G2tK4vgF_C_CP40-2qL4spm3i_wCLcBGAsYHQ/s200/galagaworks10_zps5366a49c.jpg" width="133" /></a><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-K4Xcje8pwx4/XsFW22G0dPI/AAAAAAAACQI/rhQyLKLtvkQlwYp4IdsaFF4zhBhp7jtcgCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/galagaworks7_zpse418aa2d.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="800" height="200" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-K4Xcje8pwx4/XsFW22G0dPI/AAAAAAAACQI/rhQyLKLtvkQlwYp4IdsaFF4zhBhp7jtcgCLcBGAsYHQ/s200/galagaworks7_zpse418aa2d.jpg" width="133" /></a></div>
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Last but not least, Muerto was so thrilled with his Galaga now finally in working condition, that he made this totally awesome poster of me.</div>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-hizSF3E4GAk/XsFaU3GjPQI/AAAAAAAACQ0/7Fo7EpJP-h8IOz46I5mrEUC9hcufLPlRQCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/RepairWizWanted_zpsbd2de934.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="748" height="400" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-hizSF3E4GAk/XsFaU3GjPQI/AAAAAAAACQ0/7Fo7EpJP-h8IOz46I5mrEUC9hcufLPlRQCLcBGAsYHQ/s400/RepairWizWanted_zpsbd2de934.png" width="280" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XaigYRAItZs" target="_blank">...just like bow ties, fezzes, and stetsons of cause</a> };-PElgenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09955625580194567794noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4064555688737648169.post-12014262620867344852014-01-27T22:30:00.000+01:002020-06-15T21:44:47.153+02:00Konami Circus Charlie (revisited)<div style="text-align: right;">
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Not long before Christmas last year, I finished repairing an original <a href="http://elgensrepairs.blogspot.dk/2013/12/konami-circus-charlie-1-original-1.html" target="_blank">Konami Circus Charlie</a> for member</div>
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dorkvonwaterfall on <a href="http://spille-maskiner.dk/" target="_blank">spille-maskiner.dk</a>. Before carefully packing it, I tested and flexed the board several time to make sure it was durable enough to withstand being transported by <a href="http://www.postdanmark.dk/" target="_blank">The Danish Postal Service</a>. However, after poor Dirk received and tested the board, he sent me this sad video:<br />
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Apparently, the board had developed a sprite error during transport. We arranged for me to have a look at it again, and a few weeks after New Year, I had the board back on my test bench again. I was pretty sure of what was wrong: The crappy sockets that Konami had used for the ROMs. And checking with the continuity tester confirmed my hunch. So I desoldered all the 6 sockets for the graphics ROMs</div>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-dUKQWFj1LPM/XsGK8NXP0WI/AAAAAAAACRA/_nf5v5a_VsUNqIkmB5R0eo7yRU8V4Nl9ACLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/35134917-702A-4A2B-A2FC-AE11BB8E2BC6_zpsajnwtxnd.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1196" data-original-width="1600" height="478" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-dUKQWFj1LPM/XsGK8NXP0WI/AAAAAAAACRA/_nf5v5a_VsUNqIkmB5R0eo7yRU8V4Nl9ACLcBGAsYHQ/s640/35134917-702A-4A2B-A2FC-AE11BB8E2BC6_zpsajnwtxnd.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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and replaced them with (as I always use) machined pin breakable header strips</div>
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And now, the sprite error is gone</div>
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After having tested the game several times and flexed the board, I'm now hoping that it'll reach it's rightful owner (again) with no additional errors.</div>
Elgenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09955625580194567794noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4064555688737648169.post-66664404064882741312013-12-16T00:46:00.000+01:002020-06-15T21:44:28.262+02:00Konami Circus Charlie (1 original & 1 bootleg)<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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As part of a bigger deal with user darkvonwaterfall on <a href="http://spille-maskiner.dk/" target="_blank">spille-maskiner.dk</a>, I was to repair his original <a href="http://www.arcade-museum.com/manuf_detail.php?manuf_id=1467" target="_blank">Konami</a> <a href="http://www.arcade-museum.com/game_detail.php?game_id=7341" target="_blank">Circus Charlie</a> for him. The initial description was, that it didn't boot but only displayed a black screen and that some of the IC's had pins that were broken off. I tried connecting the board using the Konami adaptor, that he'd included, only to confirm, that the screen was indeed black, and the speaker was dead silent. Let the magic commence! };-P</div>
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So as always, I started off with visual inspection:<br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-HLVsKpzqkg8/XsGNMj6aH-I/AAAAAAAACRY/X8XKq8m_zfMgE6To4MThIPo_SM5sVLwrACLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/null_zps3aae2a80.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1196" data-original-width="1600" height="149" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-HLVsKpzqkg8/XsGNMj6aH-I/AAAAAAAACRY/X8XKq8m_zfMgE6To4MThIPo_SM5sVLwrACLcBGAsYHQ/s200/null_zps3aae2a80.jpg" width="200" /></a><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-rvdKwB4oPtY/XsGNHkSq7uI/AAAAAAAACRc/bTw0ZmC1dFMnUaapYDp3rDK73SpZxPVngCPcBGAYYCw/s1600/null_zps414395a2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1196" data-original-width="1600" height="149" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-rvdKwB4oPtY/XsGNHkSq7uI/AAAAAAAACRc/bTw0ZmC1dFMnUaapYDp3rDK73SpZxPVngCPcBGAYYCw/s200/null_zps414395a2.jpg" width="200" /></a></div>
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and a lot of the sockected ICs (8 or 9 of them including the main CPU) had rot (corrosion) on the pins.</div>
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This can however easily be removed by scraping the infected areas with a Stanley knife, gently rubbing it with Steel Wool, or both.<br />
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Next I started checking and dumping the ROMs on the board. And on 3 or 4 of them, pins were missing.
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Luckily, it's fairly easy to patch another pin (taken from a scraped IC) on to it, as long as there's still a fair amount of pin left };-P</div>
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Many of the ROMs wouldn't be read in the EPROM programmer at first, but then one have to remember, that the ZIF-socket of the programmer only grabs on to the sides of the pins. So if the pins are rotten, it's important also to clean the sides as well. So when I'd cleaned the sides of the pins, all but one could be read and verified against MAME. It was one of the 2 EPROMs in the sound section that seemed to be knackered, so burned a new one and smacked it into the socket.</div>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-8f6RSE5CIw8/XsGPrqTsLhI/AAAAAAAACSE/hmudakzG5FgyjcSP8vsCLdqin__DENR5QCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/1F98E985-39FC-4312-ABC1-FBB2A1D626BF_zpsc5wly3gm.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1196" data-original-width="1600" height="478" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-8f6RSE5CIw8/XsGPrqTsLhI/AAAAAAAACSE/hmudakzG5FgyjcSP8vsCLdqin__DENR5QCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/1F98E985-39FC-4312-ABC1-FBB2A1D626BF_zpsc5wly3gm.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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I now tried to connect the board again to see if there was any change, but still black screen and sound.</div>
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Next step was to start measuring on the poor board to see what might be wrong. However, after having the board connected for just a minute or so, a smell of fried electronics started to emerge. I quickly found, that the AMP was burning up; almost gave me blisters when I touched the heat sink.</div>
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I turned the sub PCB around and found that the soldering for the AMP and the sound pot didn't look so good.</div>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-IQj1t8uXW64/XsGQlDwG1AI/AAAAAAAACSU/hpVXthb4I9MpDqobRXyjtV1RddEiL62lwCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/null_zps7a7f5e77.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1196" data-original-width="1600" height="478" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-IQj1t8uXW64/XsGQlDwG1AI/AAAAAAAACSU/hpVXthb4I9MpDqobRXyjtV1RddEiL62lwCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/null_zps7a7f5e77.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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So desoldered both components for now so no further harm would be done and to move onwards with waking up this game.</div>
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Armed with the schematics for the game and my scope, I started with the CPU. This game (as well as a number of other Konami games from this period) has a custom CPU called Konami-1. It's basically a Motorola6809, but with scrambled opcodes and a different pinout. However with the schematics in hand, it was pretty easy to find the different control pins as well as the address and data bus.</div>
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The CLOCK signal was fine, but the RESET pin was pulsating, indicating that the watchdog was barking. Looked at the data pins and they all to had some activity within the watchdog cycle. But when checking the address lines I found that the most significant bit of the address bus was stone dead, not even jumping just a little bit when power was applied; all the others did. This is pin 42 on the CPU and besides being a normal address bit for the program ROMs, it also takes part in controlling the CS (chip select) signals for the 2 scratch RAMs (indicated in red in the pic below).</div>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Jfg4Hu6MXAw/XsGQ74HB_XI/AAAAAAAACSc/XwX2cm1DBKE5C8WzsBvz9oAlnXJ2PcCXQCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/B48C66DD-5FB9-486F-815B-8AC02D4AF699_zpsg86wxuxw.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1196" data-original-width="1600" height="478" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Jfg4Hu6MXAw/XsGQ74HB_XI/AAAAAAAACSc/XwX2cm1DBKE5C8WzsBvz9oAlnXJ2PcCXQCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/B48C66DD-5FB9-486F-815B-8AC02D4AF699_zpsg86wxuxw.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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I tried peeking the CS of the 2 scratch-RAMs, and one of them (the one on the left) was never selected as I suspected from the schematics and the dead pin 42 on the CPU.</div>
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As part of the bigger deal, dorkvonwaterfall also gave me a defective bootleg of the same game for free, so I decided to have a closer look at that PCB; it might be in better condition than the original and might give me some pointers.<br />
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The boards actually look very similar<br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ED-KSHRV_3I/XsGSZRxDwRI/AAAAAAAACSw/DnCvKLXc6NAXYHgNMWhdBWRz-i8pXFMigCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/null_zps325caa54.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1196" data-original-width="1600" height="149" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ED-KSHRV_3I/XsGSZRxDwRI/AAAAAAAACSw/DnCvKLXc6NAXYHgNMWhdBWRz-i8pXFMigCLcBGAsYHQ/s200/null_zps325caa54.jpg" width="200" /></a><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-p8X-yWhS3U4/XsGSfZbJDyI/AAAAAAAACS0/FnU0O7iyT1I9uaajH75Skh9obmTto1dSwCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/null_zps28725b4b.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1196" data-original-width="1600" height="149" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-p8X-yWhS3U4/XsGSfZbJDyI/AAAAAAAACS0/FnU0O7iyT1I9uaajH75Skh9obmTto1dSwCLcBGAsYHQ/s200/null_zps28725b4b.jpg" width="200" /></a></div>
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(original on the left; bootleg on the right)</div>
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The bootleg is missing the custom ICs but has an extra strip of PCB at the bottom containing circuitry to make up for that. Here's a close up of the right side of the strip containing the standard Motorola6809.</div>
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Besides that, the two boards are almost identical.</div>
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After having done a quick visual inspection and dumped all the ROMs and checked them against MAME (they were all good), I discovered that the ROM set is identical to one of the original sets. That actually means, that the bootleg board is able to unscramble the opcodes on-the-fly at runtime, instead of, as I initially thought, using a ROM set with unscrambled opcodes.</div>
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I hooked the bootleg up to my test rig and got a flashing screen, then this</div>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-BSP2oJOhLaE/XsGV2BMC7FI/AAAAAAAACTg/WWRWSeitaxsMgDHjYKzLjbpefy-lHm6vwCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/7DDA5E55-CBA5-4BA3-BC72-4229D8F3A113_zpsfjkn9e8g.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1196" data-original-width="1600" height="478" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-BSP2oJOhLaE/XsGV2BMC7FI/AAAAAAAACTg/WWRWSeitaxsMgDHjYKzLjbpefy-lHm6vwCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/7DDA5E55-CBA5-4BA3-BC72-4229D8F3A113_zpsfjkn9e8g.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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for about half a second. Then reset and the same over again...the watch dog was barking here as well. Even though the self test clearly indicated, that all program ROMs and RAM was ok, I had a hunch, that it might be a problem with one of the 2 scratch-RAMs. When peeking with the scope everything looked fine... hmmm. I tried piggy-backing a known good on one of the RAMs</div>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ybRICYb05k0/XsGWW1wXSSI/AAAAAAAACTo/LbotePBMvxcals56I_-gVLRDYqom8b1jACLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/EEBF5D48-B974-4349-B90F-B760295F0F6D_zpsoqfh3tg0.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1196" data-original-width="1600" height="478" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ybRICYb05k0/XsGWW1wXSSI/AAAAAAAACTo/LbotePBMvxcals56I_-gVLRDYqom8b1jACLcBGAsYHQ/s640/EEBF5D48-B974-4349-B90F-B760295F0F6D_zpsoqfh3tg0.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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and BAM!</div>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-d4X8K4xeuqQ/XsGWpiLi2-I/AAAAAAAACTw/7Q_3jGhslpolg1YDk9HR5NcgSsgh7LGeACLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/FE678A72-5E59-43B2-A4A3-C6466B74E641_zpsu9gvf8c2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1196" data-original-width="1600" height="478" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-d4X8K4xeuqQ/XsGWpiLi2-I/AAAAAAAACTw/7Q_3jGhslpolg1YDk9HR5NcgSsgh7LGeACLcBGAsYHQ/s640/FE678A72-5E59-43B2-A4A3-C6466B74E641_zpsu9gvf8c2.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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the game started up };-P I desoldered the RAM and tested it in the TOP2005+, but it came out good. I then fitted a socket and smacked the original RAM into it; watch dogging again. The game ran flawlessly with the other RAM IC; even the sound was perfect...</div>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-PCp0-DUSwoM/XsGW_JlyVqI/AAAAAAAACT4/yxqWUhgOFNAyA51Ak3m8PiXx4bj6-wDiACLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/32090E88-8181-4F27-8E3A-E5EDD8FA4F3B_zpssnoz9vdf.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1196" data-original-width="1600" height="478" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-PCp0-DUSwoM/XsGW_JlyVqI/AAAAAAAACT4/yxqWUhgOFNAyA51Ak3m8PiXx4bj6-wDiACLcBGAsYHQ/s640/32090E88-8181-4F27-8E3A-E5EDD8FA4F3B_zpssnoz9vdf.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Without being 100% certain, I'm pretty sure, that the original RAM might have a timing issue, and that's why it passes the off board test in the TOP (and boards self-test), but doesn't actually work correctly runtime. I now had a fully working board (almost) identical to the original I was to repair. This is usually the best situation you can have when doing a repair, ever };-P</div>
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Now on the bootleg all the wires from the Konami-1 mash-up on the extra PCB-strip is still connected to the original points where the CPU sits on the original. So it was pretty simple to compare measurements between the two. And as I suspected, pin 42 on the bootleg was very active at all times. So either the Konami-1 CPU was toasted, or something downstream was pulling the line down. So following the schematics, I tried removing the only IC that connected directly to pin 42 (a 74244), but the line remained stone dead }:-S. I did, however, have one small hope left: On some rare occations, a pin can snap just inside the IC casing. So with a little luck you're able to carve a bit of the casing away, and solder a wire on to a piece of lead that still connects to the actual sillicon circuit inside. So I placed the CPU in a socket on a board from the scrap pile and started carving using a file.</div>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-xzvP8hCeNF4/XsGXfy0KfpI/AAAAAAAACUA/hF3Ds5rfPuwZ3MKaoxBwdYu-U4r3VZD2gCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/null_zps00d23719.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1196" data-original-width="1600" height="478" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-xzvP8hCeNF4/XsGXfy0KfpI/AAAAAAAACUA/hF3Ds5rfPuwZ3MKaoxBwdYu-U4r3VZD2gCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/null_zps00d23719.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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But alas! After having reached the metal, there was no visual signs of breaks</div>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-I6bx8CY8QPo/XsGXwHdua0I/AAAAAAAACUI/E8hGH0Bs6dgSZEJhCy6zoSaGvBH2RZ1ggCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/D47E5216-2C52-4DC5-8694-29D7CDBDD1D6_zpsn4xpaa1q.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1196" data-original-width="1600" height="478" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-I6bx8CY8QPo/XsGXwHdua0I/AAAAAAAACUI/E8hGH0Bs6dgSZEJhCy6zoSaGvBH2RZ1ggCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/D47E5216-2C52-4DC5-8694-29D7CDBDD1D6_zpsn4xpaa1q.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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and when peeking with the scope, the line was still stone-dead. So basicly to fix his game, I would have to somehow get hold a replacement for the dead Konami-1 custom CPU.</div>
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So I send out cries for help on the different arcade forums I usually visit, and got an answer };-P The user Soren (Søren) from <a href="http://spille-maskiner.dk/" target="_blank">spille-maskiner.dk</a> (and now friend of mine through <a href="http://chassisarcade.dk/" target="_blank">chassisarcade.dk</a>; he more or less keeps their pinballs up'n'running and also, like me, hang out there <a href="http://www.youtube.com/channel/UCSgZQQJFpcJSug_NbkOrfhw/videos" target="_blank">wednesday nights</a>) wrote to me, that he had an original defective <a href="http://www.arcade-museum.com/game_detail.php?game_id=8168" target="_blank">Hyper Sports</a>, that he would kindly let me borrow; jawsome! Luckily this board also had the Konami-1 socketed, so I didn't even have to do any desoldering.</div>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-dDu0bZCIkfw/XsGYTtvZTKI/AAAAAAAACUQ/4Un__s_tY-kFwAuF3bVdtFvc4qjkkDuggCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/HyperSports_zps29f82128.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="720" data-original-width="960" height="480" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-dDu0bZCIkfw/XsGYTtvZTKI/AAAAAAAACUQ/4Un__s_tY-kFwAuF3bVdtFvc4qjkkDuggCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/HyperSports_zps29f82128.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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I slammed the CPU into the original Circus Charlie and now had an active pin 42 };-P However, the game was still watch dogging, was dead silent and had a black screen; but at least it was some progress...</div>
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Now as the game suffered from a lot of corrosion on the socketed ICs, these were my first suspects. So I started checking each of them with the continuity tester by measuring between the IC pins and the pins of the socket on the solderside of the PCB. Starting with this custom IC in the final stage of the graphics section</div>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-b1ld0BfYOxY/XsGYrxP5dUI/AAAAAAAACUc/biCot1_6edkzqjajTxvO0qwLc8Ya8NIQgCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/null_zps414395a2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1196" data-original-width="1600" height="478" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-b1ld0BfYOxY/XsGYrxP5dUI/AAAAAAAACUc/biCot1_6edkzqjajTxvO0qwLc8Ya8NIQgCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/null_zps414395a2.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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I found 3 pins unconnected. After giving both IC and socket another treatment with Stanley knife and steel wool (I REALLY want a fiber glass brush for X-mas this year), all the pins made connection again. I connected power, and now got a screen flipping between the following two images:</div>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-U4zD1WH2sTg/XsGY-lkxjlI/AAAAAAAACUk/FP2FmSFariUXyCwZ8bNMaYUsoA3eFkiywCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/170C9143-A0BA-46E6-BB16-F9ED681EE49B_zps7jtaq09b.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1196" data-original-width="1600" height="478" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-U4zD1WH2sTg/XsGY-lkxjlI/AAAAAAAACUk/FP2FmSFariUXyCwZ8bNMaYUsoA3eFkiywCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/170C9143-A0BA-46E6-BB16-F9ED681EE49B_zps7jtaq09b.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-RMXZZ5CFAy0/XsGZV_5ms7I/AAAAAAAACUs/O9oawgcv4kQ1RoRMo4hduLOa58bdUJD7gCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/FA5C1A9E-68DE-4CC9-9771-9067B5564243_zpsrryqhn4o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1196" data-original-width="1600" height="478" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-RMXZZ5CFAy0/XsGZV_5ms7I/AAAAAAAACUs/O9oawgcv4kQ1RoRMo4hduLOa58bdUJD7gCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/FA5C1A9E-68DE-4CC9-9771-9067B5564243_zpsrryqhn4o.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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ROM3 also had 2 pins not making proper connection and was given the same treatment as the custom IC. Aaaaaand....<br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Tw2Sr075uMk/XsGZyrtsw6I/AAAAAAAACU4/1kk9nrA6iXwW7PhBfEseHOTiVYHQawQDgCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/64EE5B87-9DF3-414D-89DD-A4ACD75DB2A5_zpses0jsp5f.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1196" data-original-width="1600" height="149" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Tw2Sr075uMk/XsGZyrtsw6I/AAAAAAAACU4/1kk9nrA6iXwW7PhBfEseHOTiVYHQawQDgCLcBGAsYHQ/s200/64EE5B87-9DF3-414D-89DD-A4ACD75DB2A5_zpses0jsp5f.jpg" width="200" /></a><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Zc4FB_f8c4w/XsGZ8_DMSXI/AAAAAAAACU8/nYXfnornE9oiyVp9FqwSmnEDioROmLkaACLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/01F8B941-9071-4104-B754-F89B09DC494C_zpsjt11g2xh.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1196" data-original-width="1600" height="149" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Zc4FB_f8c4w/XsGZ8_DMSXI/AAAAAAAACU8/nYXfnornE9oiyVp9FqwSmnEDioROmLkaACLcBGAsYHQ/s200/01F8B941-9071-4104-B754-F89B09DC494C_zpsjt11g2xh.jpg" width="200" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/--uUNRmwzch0/XsGaRKtnwKI/AAAAAAAACVI/OGUrqY3JqBIsqCIRk792fSmYABymRiaygCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/D3E09326-A32B-49B8-802E-CA24FBEDB7A6_zpsfsd1qsty.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1196" data-original-width="1600" height="149" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/--uUNRmwzch0/XsGaRKtnwKI/AAAAAAAACVI/OGUrqY3JqBIsqCIRk792fSmYABymRiaygCLcBGAsYHQ/s200/D3E09326-A32B-49B8-802E-CA24FBEDB7A6_zpsfsd1qsty.jpg" width="200" /></a><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-cveq_3KjB4Y/XsGaX7Ht43I/AAAAAAAACVM/ZIZ8dS9QIKgCnLC2zbrlRn4lJkXokVqowCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/9FEAC866-3C98-446B-8A4A-B9F647BFCD9E_zpsq8cvhjh2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1196" data-original-width="1600" height="149" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-cveq_3KjB4Y/XsGaX7Ht43I/AAAAAAAACVM/ZIZ8dS9QIKgCnLC2zbrlRn4lJkXokVqowCLcBGAsYHQ/s200/9FEAC866-3C98-446B-8A4A-B9F647BFCD9E_zpsq8cvhjh2.jpg" width="200" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y0V4TZAyd8I" target="_blank">OOOOH JOOOOY! };-P</a> Everything worked perfectly, except for the sound, of cause; as I'd removed the AMP and the volume pot. The AMP is an <a href="http://pdf1.alldatasheet.com/datasheet-pdf/view/40093/SANYO/LA4461.html" target="_blank">LA4461</a>, and I only had some new LA4460 (the mirrored version) stocked. But as it's fitted with a heat sink on the PCB, the mirrored version wouldn't fit properly. The bootleg, however, didn't have a heat sink, so snatched the one from there, and fitted the bootleg with the LA4460 };-P</div>
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And lo and behold; after fitting the volume pot again as well, it brought back the sound!</div>
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The only thing keeping me from closing this case now, was to find a working Konami-1. I actually started a project of trying to reverse engineer the bootleg mash-up and make a daugther board, that could be used as a replacement, but found it too time consuming for now. So after some time, I stumbled upon a cheap defective <a href="http://www.arcade-museum.com/game_detail.php?game_id=9348" target="_blank">Roc'n Rope</a> on evilBay and decided to buy it. When I inserted this CPU, the game started to watch dog again... had I bought a defective CPU? }:-S But I discovered, that the CPU socket was actually in pretty bad shape, due to the corrosion, so I replaced it with machined pin header strips.</div>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-51pOdtK0jN0/XsGavwUtQfI/AAAAAAAACVY/t7n7QiGEpDMKjc-WsIRthw-pKrqQc3E9QCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/C1F7535C-E489-49FF-90E5-44DD31317DE2_zpsqekqwgfm.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1196" data-original-width="1600" height="149" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-51pOdtK0jN0/XsGavwUtQfI/AAAAAAAACVY/t7n7QiGEpDMKjc-WsIRthw-pKrqQc3E9QCLcBGAsYHQ/s200/C1F7535C-E489-49FF-90E5-44DD31317DE2_zpsqekqwgfm.jpg" width="200" /></a><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-24q1hYSjeaA/XsGa078bhHI/AAAAAAAACVc/lBULKPsY6FIOqwh6kHNS6lx9qd56aNKJgCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/F44B107C-707E-49C1-9FE7-FA08A4773696_zps7uvj2epo.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1196" data-original-width="1600" height="149" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-24q1hYSjeaA/XsGa078bhHI/AAAAAAAACVc/lBULKPsY6FIOqwh6kHNS6lx9qd56aNKJgCLcBGAsYHQ/s200/F44B107C-707E-49C1-9FE7-FA08A4773696_zps7uvj2epo.jpg" width="200" /></a></div>
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And finally the game was in perfect condition and ready to be returned to it's rightful owner };-P</div>
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So now that the board is getting send back, is Elgen giving up on the Konami-1 mash-up, as he will not be able to test it, you might think? Weeeell, not quite. Because I actually discovered, that if I fitted a socket on the bootleg where the Konami-1 was suppose to sit, and removed the 6809 as well as 2 socketed PALs, I could insert a Konami-1, and the game would run quite happily.</div>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-2H-cnDWjpZQ/XsGbJ188ggI/AAAAAAAACVs/1e5DiN51kBgcHUWWp-yN3vDUoqFJll2agCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/32E5B4FE-BCB0-4FAC-96F2-7761F0882CDE_zpstj48vj7u.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1196" data-original-width="1600" height="149" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-2H-cnDWjpZQ/XsGbJ188ggI/AAAAAAAACVs/1e5DiN51kBgcHUWWp-yN3vDUoqFJll2agCLcBGAsYHQ/s200/32E5B4FE-BCB0-4FAC-96F2-7761F0882CDE_zpstj48vj7u.jpg" width="200" /></a><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-rW9bV4a0030/XsGbYV_f7jI/AAAAAAAACVw/LW0fY6SIoAME1nWlLDjMPQLl0mbF-GSDwCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/581EAC59-19FE-429A-AFCF-4F7B2C24CADB_zpsoafcffbt.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1196" data-original-width="1600" height="149" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-rW9bV4a0030/XsGbYV_f7jI/AAAAAAAACVw/LW0fY6SIoAME1nWlLDjMPQLl0mbF-GSDwCLcBGAsYHQ/s200/581EAC59-19FE-429A-AFCF-4F7B2C24CADB_zpsoafcffbt.jpg" width="200" /></a></div>
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So I just might pick up this exciting task again, some time in the future };-P</div>
Elgenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09955625580194567794noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4064555688737648169.post-64888704189306590562013-05-10T18:26:00.001+02:002020-06-15T21:44:11.302+02:00V-System Aero Fighters Repair Log<div style="text-align: right;">
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As many of the people who know me personally might have discovered, I'm a big fan of the shmups made by <a href="http://www.arcade-museum.com/manuf_detail.php?manuf_id=1585&orig_game_id=8044" target="_blank">Psikyo</a> and <a href="http://www.arcade-museum.com/manuf_detail.php?manuf_id=1717&orig_game_id=6817" target="_blank">V-System</a>. So I was very pleased when I was able to snap up a cheap original defective <a href="http://www.arcade-museum.com/game_detail.php?game_id=6817" target="_blank">Aero Fighters</a> on evilBay };-P The listing text said "only small graphic error during play", and already when unpacking the PCB from the box, I got a strong feeling of what might be wrong with this poor PCB.</div>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-2v9ebt_MBkE/XsLWOZVaglI/AAAAAAAACWA/hPXsRB2xAAQ1OrHNURHY6XCfva7Aq4TiQCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/991ED30D-1151-426E-BF68-F6D8B09F7336-2413-000002BCA6EB260C_zps8da6b616.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="764" data-original-width="1023" height="476" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-2v9ebt_MBkE/XsLWOZVaglI/AAAAAAAACWA/hPXsRB2xAAQ1OrHNURHY6XCfva7Aq4TiQCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/991ED30D-1151-426E-BF68-F6D8B09F7336-2413-000002BCA6EB260C_zps8da6b616.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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It had a corner full of rot (corrosion)!<br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ABrfevk031M/XsLWeHy_5CI/AAAAAAAACWI/ZZyAXgKJ69sbeGSGqU1L6I2rdvvR0FszwCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/CF6D2A5C-75E9-4FB3-9709-5E7A71B03B38-2413-000002BC932DF3D1_zpsd48696b1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="764" data-original-width="1023" height="476" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ABrfevk031M/XsLWeHy_5CI/AAAAAAAACWI/ZZyAXgKJ69sbeGSGqU1L6I2rdvvR0FszwCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/CF6D2A5C-75E9-4FB3-9709-5E7A71B03B38-2413-000002BC932DF3D1_zpsd48696b1.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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And at the bottom of the box, I found this</div>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-zq3NU2QHUbs/XsLWv0GCAHI/AAAAAAAACWQ/huoj-g4fugAA856pQaNHa6i1AlPxwzduwCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/E3ADDC5F-CA4E-4FE0-9827-7694F51EB1FE-2413-000002BBAE8F39AA_zpsbf9618f3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="764" data-original-width="1023" height="476" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-zq3NU2QHUbs/XsLWv0GCAHI/AAAAAAAACWQ/huoj-g4fugAA856pQaNHa6i1AlPxwzduwCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/E3ADDC5F-CA4E-4FE0-9827-7694F51EB1FE-2413-000002BBAE8F39AA_zpsbf9618f3.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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the main smoothing cap for the 12V rail. However, I tried to connect the board anyhow, to see how much damage this rot made to the actual game.<br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-i8dLLAMNtpc/XsLXA3atL3I/AAAAAAAACWY/RKlZt7lWdwEx9uw0ELd_SyeGQ9ae4nLYACLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/7C111095-738D-4313-86ED-2C39C390B9E3-2413-000002BCEF0079ED_zps19fbd52c.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="764" data-original-width="1023" height="148" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-i8dLLAMNtpc/XsLXA3atL3I/AAAAAAAACWY/RKlZt7lWdwEx9uw0ELd_SyeGQ9ae4nLYACLcBGAsYHQ/s200/7C111095-738D-4313-86ED-2C39C390B9E3-2413-000002BCEF0079ED_zps19fbd52c.jpg" width="200" /></a><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-LVYcRLR_xwo/XsLXERtFUWI/AAAAAAAACWc/Q6aVrghlSFIbSTSuIfUFh1lTC8fh1gkQwCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/1D7B1913-A8C9-4C5F-8D10-138563C3992A-2413-000002BCE384070C_zps7fb7b0d2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="764" data-original-width="1023" height="148" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-LVYcRLR_xwo/XsLXERtFUWI/AAAAAAAACWc/Q6aVrghlSFIbSTSuIfUFh1lTC8fh1gkQwCLcBGAsYHQ/s200/1D7B1913-A8C9-4C5F-8D10-138563C3992A-2413-000002BCE384070C_zps7fb7b0d2.jpg" width="200" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-H_pY9wHgVbs/XsLXSujqRHI/AAAAAAAACWk/r-9Y_vJsXckZ2fmR3YlYRoUG_bg5ee6lwCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/82E35AA8-DA58-4C1E-A08F-BC0570F08686-2413-000002BCD719CAF6_zpse6d2e70c.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="764" data-original-width="1023" height="148" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-H_pY9wHgVbs/XsLXSujqRHI/AAAAAAAACWk/r-9Y_vJsXckZ2fmR3YlYRoUG_bg5ee6lwCLcBGAsYHQ/s200/82E35AA8-DA58-4C1E-A08F-BC0570F08686-2413-000002BCD719CAF6_zpse6d2e70c.jpg" width="200" /></a><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ztWktz0meGQ/XsLXYRL8AKI/AAAAAAAACWs/d5GCs1G39vgulOtcJvnU9bpbHNbghvGfgCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/4B4153EE-78BD-45DE-8D26-49F819B93E94-2413-000002BCC2011A20_zps8161c149.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="764" data-original-width="1023" height="148" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ztWktz0meGQ/XsLXYRL8AKI/AAAAAAAACWs/d5GCs1G39vgulOtcJvnU9bpbHNbghvGfgCLcBGAsYHQ/s200/4B4153EE-78BD-45DE-8D26-49F819B93E94-2413-000002BCC2011A20_zps8161c149.jpg" width="200" /></a></div>
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Many of the graphic elements in the intro and in-game, had stripes through them. This is often caused by poor pin connection on either RAM or ROM ICs. The ICs in the rotten area are MASK-ROMs, so I was pretty sure I'd found the culprit causing these errors. So I decided on desoldering the 2 MASK-ROMs with the "V-System"-logo on the silk screen.<br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-NZnfy88zoEk/XsLX8FOyCVI/AAAAAAAACW4/R6fOVPv8vxwJFOcESJvQ2HNC7fOC9BcvQCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/6FE5DE5C-2049-4923-9D44-827409680135-2413-000002BC83E8734C_zpsed93e7aa.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="764" data-original-width="1023" height="476" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-NZnfy88zoEk/XsLX8FOyCVI/AAAAAAAACW4/R6fOVPv8vxwJFOcESJvQ2HNC7fOC9BcvQCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/6FE5DE5C-2049-4923-9D44-827409680135-2413-000002BC83E8734C_zpsed93e7aa.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-aoszMfwXVWk/XsLYJ3T09VI/AAAAAAAACW8/L8nQrop5esYYgEZZqXE_CFXhy5v0ruOUwCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/440C29FB-58D3-4571-9E90-FC83D4CFB826-2413-000002BC775CA121_zps1f1e9798.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="764" data-original-width="1023" height="476" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-aoszMfwXVWk/XsLYJ3T09VI/AAAAAAAACW8/L8nQrop5esYYgEZZqXE_CFXhy5v0ruOUwCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/440C29FB-58D3-4571-9E90-FC83D4CFB826-2413-000002BC775CA121_zps1f1e9798.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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I can't say that the sight that met me underneath the desoldered ICs was pretty }:-S So I started by giving that part of the PCB a good scrub with rubbing alcohol<br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-6zo-OEFzcqA/XsLYk-A4faI/AAAAAAAACXI/L4tygFH3Z80l1ShOCEJQwizT5pUIP94MACLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/D3422747-6907-4003-9409-DED015708F85-2413-000002BC69B19D56_zpsa9e47fd6.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="764" data-original-width="1023" height="476" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-6zo-OEFzcqA/XsLYk-A4faI/AAAAAAAACXI/L4tygFH3Z80l1ShOCEJQwizT5pUIP94MACLcBGAsYHQ/s640/D3422747-6907-4003-9409-DED015708F85-2413-000002BC69B19D56_zpsa9e47fd6.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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and a toothbrush<br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-mi6bkTN4UJk/XsLY2JJLwQI/AAAAAAAACXQ/ux-2IDzIcuAX2T4ezQIAqy2_AjvRHYk3wCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/E30FC64D-C71D-4D6A-89BC-1F8BD668363B-2413-000002BC61D8BCE2_zps8225b025.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="764" data-original-width="1023" height="476" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-mi6bkTN4UJk/XsLY2JJLwQI/AAAAAAAACXQ/ux-2IDzIcuAX2T4ezQIAqy2_AjvRHYk3wCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/E30FC64D-C71D-4D6A-89BC-1F8BD668363B-2413-000002BC61D8BCE2_zps8225b025.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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That actually did fix up the PCB a lot, but it didn't remove all the rot<br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-DnxOBe_QsSw/XsLZIhMTwgI/AAAAAAAACXY/W9kw5mClFCQXQheOIA-2aeO3YlPLsKW0wCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/F4708790-7DB3-4746-9224-FD74577C01DF-2413-000002BC579243FC_zps94e5d234.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="764" data-original-width="1023" height="476" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-DnxOBe_QsSw/XsLZIhMTwgI/AAAAAAAACXY/W9kw5mClFCQXQheOIA-2aeO3YlPLsKW0wCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/F4708790-7DB3-4746-9224-FD74577C01DF-2413-000002BC579243FC_zps94e5d234.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Now I didn't quite know what to use, but I had this can of <a href="http://nedmartin.org/v3/amused/engineering-flowchart" target="_blank">WD40</a> };-P<br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-3os05wkc96E/XsLZZJsVY4I/AAAAAAAACXg/ihKP6n0xLCwOpdW1paRJqFjd1o1wg6szACLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/6327FE9D-1879-432B-BD08-C12707411C76-2413-000002BC4EF28E35_zpsf03e9450.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="764" data-original-width="1023" height="476" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-3os05wkc96E/XsLZZJsVY4I/AAAAAAAACXg/ihKP6n0xLCwOpdW1paRJqFjd1o1wg6szACLcBGAsYHQ/s640/6327FE9D-1879-432B-BD08-C12707411C76-2413-000002BC4EF28E35_zpsf03e9450.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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So I sprayed the infected area, waited about 5mins to let it work, and then started rubbing the individual circuit tracks with a swap.<br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-mQZWXGvEzOU/XsLZ3yit_8I/AAAAAAAACXo/lfCaGYKpD4kuTvIKonQgHXInYxUt78jHQCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/EFE52AC8-7492-4853-9E83-EB69994E3B9C-2413-000002BC4639A38A_zps635b6632.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="764" data-original-width="1023" height="476" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-mQZWXGvEzOU/XsLZ3yit_8I/AAAAAAAACXo/lfCaGYKpD4kuTvIKonQgHXInYxUt78jHQCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/EFE52AC8-7492-4853-9E83-EB69994E3B9C-2413-000002BC4639A38A_zps635b6632.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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After that I gave it a good scrub with rubbing alcohol and tooth brush again, as WD40 is oil based, and that actually made the area look a lot better };-D<br />
Next I went through the area with my continuity tester checking the tracks, and found two broken. Both of them were at places where the track had a via on it, and then only one end made proper connection. So I carefully scraped a bit in the via holes with a Stanley knife, uncovering a little bit of copper. I then took a piece of kynar and stuck into the via hole from the parts side, used a lot of liquid flux<br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-YrJMBwzempY/XsLaDD4JnxI/AAAAAAAACXs/tyMrKep_o8A7Vl_g9jKXzPxZGntO-CctACLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/6B07F5E8-CDF1-492D-8177-217525AE89F3-2413-000002BC3A5F7402_zps72660188.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="764" data-original-width="1023" height="476" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-YrJMBwzempY/XsLaDD4JnxI/AAAAAAAACXs/tyMrKep_o8A7Vl_g9jKXzPxZGntO-CctACLcBGAsYHQ/s640/6B07F5E8-CDF1-492D-8177-217525AE89F3-2413-000002BC3A5F7402_zps72660188.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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and soldered it into the via hole from both sides<br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-5dpPmDp69Mc/XsLaXdVaSJI/AAAAAAAACX4/YsFFAiggOGgAfe03O90P2h0s1BzT9gqewCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/1021C16F-618D-413C-AD82-299C96D00CF6-2413-000002BC2E34FF61_zps5bb69ff8.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="764" data-original-width="1023" height="476" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-5dpPmDp69Mc/XsLaXdVaSJI/AAAAAAAACX4/YsFFAiggOGgAfe03O90P2h0s1BzT9gqewCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/1021C16F-618D-413C-AD82-299C96D00CF6-2413-000002BC2E34FF61_zps5bb69ff8.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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The other ends of the kynar, I just stuck into the normal PCB holes.<br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-THwPu8o0nmQ/XsLaomJeDyI/AAAAAAAACYA/fFKMAUl1Bmo_5OMN9l2Y7JDTaS1xaePNQCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/984799D9-EB20-49DF-A02C-345EE77AA0BD-2413-000002BBFB3F4724_zps41cc19f1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="764" data-original-width="1023" height="476" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-THwPu8o0nmQ/XsLaomJeDyI/AAAAAAAACYA/fFKMAUl1Bmo_5OMN9l2Y7JDTaS1xaePNQCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/984799D9-EB20-49DF-A02C-345EE77AA0BD-2413-000002BBFB3F4724_zps41cc19f1.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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That way, they'd get soldered in place automagicly, when I soldered in the sockets for the MASK-ROMs };-D And here is the final result, with the sockets (header strips) fitted<br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-1LIanB1pP-k/XsLa5_mviBI/AAAAAAAACYI/079mISANI-kB2hLUg5DXWYhWp-cT36zCgCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/6BAF5463-E654-4B5F-AC6F-5FD6BFAD22F8-2413-000002BBE9CEDE93_zpsf176f4fc.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="764" data-original-width="1023" height="476" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-1LIanB1pP-k/XsLa5_mviBI/AAAAAAAACYI/079mISANI-kB2hLUg5DXWYhWp-cT36zCgCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/6BAF5463-E654-4B5F-AC6F-5FD6BFAD22F8-2413-000002BBE9CEDE93_zpsf176f4fc.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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and from the solder side<br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-GZlHFuNuGmA/XsLbJgULy-I/AAAAAAAACYQ/oeV_nF3YxCcvkX8Shs3io1VJbEx5FP6mwCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/37DA4CE2-AFAA-44A7-82BA-A3CE8251CAA8-2413-000002BBF2CC0F5C_zpsf9822bf1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="764" data-original-width="1023" height="476" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-GZlHFuNuGmA/XsLbJgULy-I/AAAAAAAACYQ/oeV_nF3YxCcvkX8Shs3io1VJbEx5FP6mwCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/37DA4CE2-AFAA-44A7-82BA-A3CE8251CAA8-2413-000002BBF2CC0F5C_zpsf9822bf1.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Hard to see just how rotten this corner was just a while ago };-P The MASK-ROMs themselves, also had a scrub with WD40 and rubbing alcohol, and actually ended up looking quite decent.<br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-AhGtcRMPXYE/XsLbe7k8vGI/AAAAAAAACYY/jEzaKQ5FJpYzqC7D_ZSJsDw8nZWWbFxMwCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/0A17FD36-3C6B-4FC0-B2A5-817956ECAFDB-3379-0000038EF3CFDBCE_zpse96845df.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="764" data-original-width="1023" height="476" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-AhGtcRMPXYE/XsLbe7k8vGI/AAAAAAAACYY/jEzaKQ5FJpYzqC7D_ZSJsDw8nZWWbFxMwCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/0A17FD36-3C6B-4FC0-B2A5-817956ECAFDB-3379-0000038EF3CFDBCE_zpse96845df.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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As a last thing, I needed to fit a new smoothing cap for the 12V rail. I didn't have one as big as 2200uF, so I dug up the biggest one I could find<br />
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and just fitted that<br />
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And last but not least: The Big Test };-P<br />
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I'm very pleased to say, that game now plays perfectly; one more original V-System shmup added to the collection };-P</div>
Elgenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09955625580194567794noreply@blogger.com13tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4064555688737648169.post-89214404015104577422013-05-04T15:44:00.000+02:002020-06-15T21:43:47.580+02:00Technos The Combatribes Repair Log<div style="text-align: right;">
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I was bidding on an original working <a href="http://www.arcade-museum.com/game_detail.php?game_id=7909" target="_blank">SNK Gang Wars</a> on evilBay, a game I've been trying to find at a reasonable price for a long time, when I saw that the seller also had a defective original <a href="http://www.arcade-museum.com/game_detail.php?game_id=7374" target="_blank">Technos The Combatribes</a> on auction with a very low starting price. So I made a deal with the seller, that if I won both, I would only have to pay shipping for one (as they could ship in the same parcel). I made a low bid on the defective one also, and won both };-D</div>
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It arrived well packed and in good physical condition. When first powered up, all I got was a black screen with some occasional flickering. However I discovered, that when I turned up the voltage, and power cycled the PSU, I got a quick glimpse of the "Winners don't use drugs" splash screen before the display went black again.<br />
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Tried beefing up the voltage a bit more, and when at 5.6V, it also continued into the Technos splash and then went black.<br />
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This was as high as I dared go. So turned it down to 5.2V again. With the power still on, my hand accidentally rested on one of the big custom SMDs, and suddenly the screen lit up with this flickering image:<br />
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AHA! Now that was progress for sure };-P When pressing down on the IC with a finger, a couple of corrupted sprites also showed up for a few seconds...<br />
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I looked with fear at the 144 very tiny pins, as I know that I really suck at SMD soldering. But I had to give it a try, none the less. The side shown in the above picture, was the one that stirred up graphics the most, when I pressed down on the pins, so I started with that. I had seen a youtube video, where a guy floods all the pins with liquid flux, puts a drop of solder on the solder tip, and drags it across all the pins. So I tried that<br />
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However it didn't go all that well };-S<br />
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Some of the pins ended up a bit too bend, and one of the solder pads had lifted from the PCB, due to too much heat. So I started correcting my accident, using the soldering iron, a needle, and this little piece of homemade tool (made from a wooden barbecue stick and a piece of the sliding cover from an old 3.5" floppy disc)<br />
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That actually ended up pretty well };-P<br />
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...except for the fact, that I managed to rip the loose solder pad clean off };-( And to make bad worse, this circuit line came from somewhere under the IC and ended in the (now torn off) pad. However all the other pins and pads now made perfect contact and none of them were shorted };-P Applying the principle of <i>saving the 'best' for last</i>, I decided to reflow one other side of the IC, as it still stirred up graphics when I pressed the pins.<br />
This time I tried contacting one of my colleagues, that I know have done SMD soldering professionally in a former employment, and asked him for good advise. Not surprisingly (considering my earlier poor reflow attempt) he told me that the 'drag-a-drop'-method is not very well suited for reflowing, but way better for 1st-time soldering of SMD ICs. Instead he suggested that I did the reflow one pin at the time using the following technique: Put the solder tip down at the end of the pad, then push it towards the IC pin, thereby scooping the small amount of solder on the pad to the pin. Of cause, remembering to flood all the pins in liquid flux first };-P And this reflow was a great success };-D<br />
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Many thnx goes to Rasmus for the great advise };-D<br />
And now all the graphics was steady on the screen when pressing the pins, and even when I tried to flex the board.<br />
The only problem now remaining, was the torn off pad... the sprites now looked like this, but besides that, all was perfect.<br />
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...and I was pretty sure, that the missing pad was to blame.<br />
Now, as the signal line comes from somewhere under the IC, I would have to find a patching point by trial'n'error. The pad is just 1 in a cluster of 4 that all have signals coming from under the IC. So I went hunting with the continuity tester, putting one probe on the neighboring pin, and started probing the vias under the IC from the solder side of the PCB. I found a connection in a cluster of 4 vias. I checked that the other 2 good pins were also represented in the cluster, and they were };-P So I soldered a long piece of kynar to the last via<br />
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and pressed the other end against the floating IC pin<br />
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And now...<br />
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...all sprites were perfect again };-D<br />
Now I just had to make a nice and durable patch. I'm not a big fan of patching over the side of the PCB, so I located a nearby relatively big-holed via; cleaned it up using the desoldering gun, and routed the kynar through there.<br />
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After checking that everything was still okay, I applied a few drops of superglue on the via hole and along the patchwire to make the repair more durable.<br />
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And this closes this repair log. I think this board is going up for trade, as I'm not a big fan of this particular brawler, and don't remember it from back in the days. Should you be interested in buying or trading it for defective PCBs, there's a contact link at the bottom of the page };-PElgenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09955625580194567794noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4064555688737648169.post-82624729343942126742013-04-26T14:45:00.001+02:002020-06-15T21:43:22.965+02:00NMK Thunder Dragon Repair Log<div style="text-align: right;">
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I have to be honest...ever since I learned, that one of my favourite games <a href="http://www.arcade-history.com/?n=psychic-5&page=detail&id=2057" target="_blank">Psychic5</a> was made by <a href="http://www.arcade-museum.com/manuf_detail.php?manuf_id=1550&orig_game_id=10100" target="_blank">NMK</a> for <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jaleco" target="_blank">Jaleco</a>, I have completely fallen in love with both companies. So I try to snap up as many games from both (when I find them at a fair price) as I can. Here I'd found an original <a href="http://www.arcade-museum.com/game_detail.php?game_id=10100" target="_blank">NMK Thunder Dragon</a> with "graphical errors" on evilBay with a starting price of 2EURO + 28EURO P&P. As I was the only bidder, I got it for the 30EURO all-in-all };-P.</div>
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When first booted up, the main intro logo, text layer and sprites looked fine, but some of the background layer was pretty messed up.<br />
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So dumped all socketed ROMs (they were fine) and did visual inspection. The board was in very fine physical condition, and the only suspective thing I found, was this<br />
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But they all checked out just fine using the continuity tester.<br />
After having eliminated ROMs and physical damage, I had a hunch, that this error was caused by a RAM issue. So I started shortening adjacent data pins on the different RAMs on the board, to see if I could somehow stir up the graphics on screen. I found that the 4 MB84256 at positions IC1-IC4 is involved in generating the different layers on the screen. I googled the data sheet for MB84256-12 (that btw is produced by The Evil F aka Fujitsu) and found that they are just the Fujitsu equivalent of the standard 62256 with 120ns access time. These are not very common (at least not at the boards in my scrap pile), but at last I managed to find 2 pieces at 70ns and 85ns respectively and they both tested good in the Top2005+ };-P. So I tried piggy backing the 4 RAMs one at the time.<br />
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I saw a change when piggy backing the one at IC4.<br />
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So I desoldered it<br />
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and tested it in the Top.<br />
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So fitted a socket and installed one of the scrap-RAMs. Now the background layer was perfect again };-P<br />
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However it was now evident, that the game also had a sprite problem. I just didn't notice that before because of the issue with the backgrounds.<br />
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They all had stripes through them! So I tried piggy backing the 3 other RAMs, and on IC3 I saw a change in the stripe-pattern. So desoldered that IC as well<br />
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and tested it in the Top.<br />
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So fitted a socket and the 2nd scrap-RAM IC<br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-anNgR0xUlyg/Xs1q9sF0cpI/AAAAAAAACeI/ZJsKXq5y1ycu_Z8D5O9v1y5dUSY2TEbWwCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/1DE71E38-7751-478D-AD77-A9739D6AB2A1-6877-000005E76E1186D5_zps31813a0c.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="764" data-original-width="1023" height="476" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-anNgR0xUlyg/Xs1q9sF0cpI/AAAAAAAACeI/ZJsKXq5y1ycu_Z8D5O9v1y5dUSY2TEbWwCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/1DE71E38-7751-478D-AD77-A9739D6AB2A1-6877-000005E76E1186D5_zps31813a0c.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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and presto! All the sprites were back to normal };-P<br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-8QyDmRrblsY/Xs1rJY03YtI/AAAAAAAACeQ/Fv_OBis3bxgaboiAqK8EJ4FYfqzNUi8fgCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/252D042F-0BAC-419B-963B-756EDA49477E-6877-000005E7AC46001B_zpsf26fc13f.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="764" data-original-width="1023" height="476" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-8QyDmRrblsY/Xs1rJY03YtI/AAAAAAAACeQ/Fv_OBis3bxgaboiAqK8EJ4FYfqzNUi8fgCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/252D042F-0BAC-419B-963B-756EDA49477E-6877-000005E7AC46001B_zpsf26fc13f.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-uYcsObZI-pE/Xs1rXm0kqbI/AAAAAAAACeU/AYjX3EvxBl4DLAy_gBKb97A1959moaySQCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/CC84A5B4-3148-4D3B-9AB6-F7997FE472B1-6877-000005E7E6308E8F_zps56f18424.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="764" data-original-width="1023" height="476" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-uYcsObZI-pE/Xs1rXm0kqbI/AAAAAAAACeU/AYjX3EvxBl4DLAy_gBKb97A1959moaySQCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/CC84A5B4-3148-4D3B-9AB6-F7997FE472B1-6877-000005E7E6308E8F_zps56f18424.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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So the two culprits are ready for the bin<br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-uy9K_GhivXM/Xs1rlAjyoJI/AAAAAAAACeY/9Cw_yGEojtgeV5A5QSo6I_5pCBE5gRVjACLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/6092C656-D3C1-4D91-A226-8F64C3A73347-6877-000005E7F0A7053B_zps11b6d3e8.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="764" data-original-width="1023" height="476" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-uy9K_GhivXM/Xs1rlAjyoJI/AAAAAAAACeY/9Cw_yGEojtgeV5A5QSo6I_5pCBE5gRVjACLcBGAsYHQ/s640/6092C656-D3C1-4D91-A226-8F64C3A73347-6877-000005E7F0A7053B_zps11b6d3e8.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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and the case is closed.<br />
The game is very addicting, fast paced, and has a very cool soundtrack. I'm really pleased to have it in my collection };-PElgenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09955625580194567794noreply@blogger.com11tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4064555688737648169.post-35546612916427071732013-04-08T15:44:00.002+02:002020-06-15T21:43:01.785+02:00TAD Cabal Trackball To Joystick Conversion<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<span style="text-align: right;">I bought this original TAD Cabal along with another defective (</span><a href="http://www.arcade-museum.com/game_detail.php?game_id=9309" style="text-align: right;" target="_blank">Rezon</a><span style="text-align: right;">, that actually plays perfectly) over a year ago. When powered on, it booted, but with no sprites. During visual inspection, however, I quickly stumbled across this</span></div>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-vVabigLynss/Xs1tzF1WXNI/AAAAAAAACeo/K4XTemzYeNYZCpxOivs1QxIL2n9WLI9mQCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/E4DBAE9F-6877-4A6D-AB47-61433FEA9595-9765-000009EAF91CA4B1_zps0adf47a1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="764" data-original-width="1023" height="148" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-vVabigLynss/Xs1tzF1WXNI/AAAAAAAACeo/K4XTemzYeNYZCpxOivs1QxIL2n9WLI9mQCLcBGAsYHQ/s200/E4DBAE9F-6877-4A6D-AB47-61433FEA9595-9765-000009EAF91CA4B1_zps0adf47a1.jpg" width="200" /></a><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-kcYlwk6c5Cw/Xs1uAi0Cv2I/AAAAAAAACes/FUnWlyv3PLsuh7RL6jhVKer_0idUty8PwCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/8AE7338F-8CCE-49AB-8667-E0551B390F5A-9765-000009EB0842113C_zps5b11aecc.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="764" data-original-width="1023" height="148" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-kcYlwk6c5Cw/Xs1uAi0Cv2I/AAAAAAAACes/FUnWlyv3PLsuh7RL6jhVKer_0idUty8PwCLcBGAsYHQ/s200/8AE7338F-8CCE-49AB-8667-E0551B390F5A-9765-000009EB0842113C_zps5b11aecc.jpg" width="200" /></a></div>
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The two ribbons were not properly connected! I pushed them firmly into the sockets, and now the game booted normally with sprites present on screen };-P Coined it up and pushed start. But all I was able to do, was shoot bullets and throw grenades. When I wiggled the joystick, the cross hair moved just a tiny bit from side to side and up and down. Hmmm, a sneaking suspicion began to creep up on me...<br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-fakX92jogWM/Xs1ubo_O_cI/AAAAAAAACe4/5_jRLnaiUrcptkNqcXyJhNOOBDSUzX6pQCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/2EA66C09-B836-4855-860C-24D0D613E30B-9765-000009EB39B240FD_zps96d28903.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="764" data-original-width="1023" height="476" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-fakX92jogWM/Xs1ubo_O_cI/AAAAAAAACe4/5_jRLnaiUrcptkNqcXyJhNOOBDSUzX6pQCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/2EA66C09-B836-4855-860C-24D0D613E30B-9765-000009EB39B240FD_zps96d28903.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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And after having dumped all the ROMs, MAME was able to confirm, that this was in fact the trackball version of the game. As I don't own a trackball, I started to search the net to see if it might be possible to convert it into the joystick version. First thing I found, was this comment in the <a href="http://mamedev.org/source/src/mame/drivers/cabal.c.html" target="_blank">MAME source</a> for the Cabal driver:<br />
<blockquote class="tr_bq">
/* The joystick version has a PCB marked "Joystick sub" containing a 74ls245. It plugs in the sockets of the two D4701AC */</blockquote>
as well as this on <a href="http://www.arcade-museum.com/pinouts-game/7252.html" target="_blank">KLOV</a>:<br />
<blockquote class="tr_bq">
When converting from track ball version, please change IC D4701AC (2pcs) at location C D 1 2, on bottom board with socket plug in adaptor.</blockquote>
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Further googling, and I soon found this <a href="http://www.jammarcade.net/cabal-repair-log/" target="_blank">repair log</a> on porchy's site <a href="http://jammarcade.net/">JAMMARCADE.NET</a> containing two photos of the "JOYSTIC SUB" (no, the missing 'K' is not an error };-P). So made colour prints of both.<br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-MmcbYj7y69A/Xs1uuAB6EeI/AAAAAAAACfA/7XW2Rk7u7Y0so5z2Ay0zKX3zUrG2nYWCQCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/8DF3F61C-3E38-4E2B-A4C2-E4DCFDB28616-9765-000009EB6DCE002F_zps64c1e05f.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="764" data-original-width="1023" height="476" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-MmcbYj7y69A/Xs1uuAB6EeI/AAAAAAAACfA/7XW2Rk7u7Y0so5z2Ay0zKX3zUrG2nYWCQCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/8DF3F61C-3E38-4E2B-A4C2-E4DCFDB28616-9765-000009EB6DCE002F_zps64c1e05f.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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From that, I could see, that it only contained one single component, namely a 74244 (and not 74245, as stated in the MAME source).<br />
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Now in order to have any hopes of getting this to work, I would need to do a ROM-swap of the trackball-specific ROMs first, labled 6, 7, 8, and 9 on my board. I decided on trying the "World, Joystick Version" first, as this is the only joystick-set ROM #5 on my board, is in. So programmed 4 27512 EPROMs and installed them on the board, and removed the two D4701ACs from their sockets as well.<br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-hxmlJfCYOBs/Xs1u_T8o6KI/AAAAAAAACfI/mYYSKOF7WS8iJawblyCdp3XhfZV0r4XBgCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/F8E3107D-217D-446E-A8BE-71A1681C47DA-9765-000009EB5669EDCE_zps0d65d348.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="764" data-original-width="1023" height="476" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-hxmlJfCYOBs/Xs1u_T8o6KI/AAAAAAAACfI/mYYSKOF7WS8iJawblyCdp3XhfZV0r4XBgCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/F8E3107D-217D-446E-A8BE-71A1681C47DA-9765-000009EB5669EDCE_zps0d65d348.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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The game booted up just fine with these ROMs, but when I tried to start a game, the controls were acting up. However that was not surprising, as the inputs with the D4701ACs removed from the board, were now floating.<br />
Next I started scrutinizing the data sheets for the <a href="http://pdf1.alldatasheet.net/datasheet-pdf/view/119531/NEC/UPD4701AC.html" target="_blank">D4701AC</a> and the <a href="http://www.datasheetcatalog.org/datasheets/70/375527_DS.pdf" target="_blank">74244</a> and the photos of the JOYSTIC SUB PCB. Now as the 244 is just an octal line driver, it was obvious, that the sub PCB just routed the 4 inputs from 1P and 4 inputs from 2P through the 244 to the 8 outputs of the D4701AC-socket for 2P. The rest is apperently implemented in software (the ROMs). Initially I thought, that the 244 was only there for protection against overcurrent caused by static shock and that the 244 should be left open all the time, but more on that later.<br />
First I had to figure out how the 4 different direction were mapped from the edge connector to the 2 sockets. As there are pull-ups on the controller inputs, I could use my scope for that task.<br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-AMLXYlNr0-I/Xs1vLIo9lcI/AAAAAAAACfM/GYQ7vmMFac8urk7nardra4ymk07EIwBDQCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/2DD6576A-6BC5-4E5F-A0C2-D2E55A6935B7-9765-000009EBC5CACE45_zpsa7a5c44b.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="764" data-original-width="1023" height="476" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-AMLXYlNr0-I/Xs1vLIo9lcI/AAAAAAAACfM/GYQ7vmMFac8urk7nardra4ymk07EIwBDQCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/2DD6576A-6BC5-4E5F-A0C2-D2E55A6935B7-9765-000009EBC5CACE45_zpsa7a5c44b.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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So by exercising the joysticks and proping the socket, I found that<br />
<blockquote class="tr_bq">
pin1@C1 (1P UP)<br />
pin2@C1 (1P DOWN)<br />
pin4@C1 (1P LEFT)<br />
pin5@C1 (1P RIGHT)<br />
pin1@C2 (2P UP)<br />
pin2@C2 (2P DOWN)<br />
pin4@C2 (2P LEFT)<br />
pin5@C2 (2P RIGHT)</blockquote>
where C1 is the socket nearest the edge connector and C2 is the socket just beside it.<br />
Next I needed to figure out which controller inputs the software expected on the different pins in the C2 socket. In order to pull-up the inputs, I installed a resistor array I desoldered from a scrap board,<br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-leXEe_EeWd8/Xs1vas03QYI/AAAAAAAACfU/fwCaO2D9EF0Ic7xPF2fGXT_V8W0MklZwQCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/92DC4830-D381-4106-A0F2-A14E0CBC5D31-9765-000009EBB0D2B88E_zpse8e057be.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="764" data-original-width="1023" height="476" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-leXEe_EeWd8/Xs1vas03QYI/AAAAAAAACfU/fwCaO2D9EF0Ic7xPF2fGXT_V8W0MklZwQCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/92DC4830-D381-4106-A0F2-A14E0CBC5D31-9765-000009EBB0D2B88E_zpse8e057be.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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and then used a grounded probe to poke the 8 socket-pins while the game was playing.<br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-P_r27l-6zAU/Xs1vkudjj1I/AAAAAAAACfc/imiLzDuT1S4YiEK8n8J_nMT7_1y3pxWqACLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/25EA8EA6-F052-4B59-B059-226085E60F64-9765-00000A57AE3AF67D_zps27de5f5f.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="764" data-original-width="1023" height="476" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-P_r27l-6zAU/Xs1vkudjj1I/AAAAAAAACfc/imiLzDuT1S4YiEK8n8J_nMT7_1y3pxWqACLcBGAsYHQ/s640/25EA8EA6-F052-4B59-B059-226085E60F64-9765-00000A57AE3AF67D_zps27de5f5f.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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I've summed up the combined results here:<br />
<blockquote>
pin1@C1 (1P UP) -> pin16@C2 (former D0 on the NEC D4701AC @C2)<br />
pin2@C1 (1P DOWN) -> pin17@C2 (former D1 on the NEC D4701AC @C2)<br />
pin4@C1 (1P LEFT) -> pin18@C2 (former D2 on the NEC D4701AC @C2)<br />
pin5@C1 (1P RIGHT) -> pin19@C2 (former D3 on the NEC D4701AC @C2)<br />
pin1@C2 (2P UP) -> pin20@C2 (former D4 on the NEC D4701AC @C2)<br />
pin2@C2 (2P DOWN) -> pin21@C2 (former D5 on the NEC D4701AC @C2)<br />
pin4@C2 (2P LEFT) -> pin22@C2 (former D6 on the NEC D4701AC @C2)<br />
pin5@C2 (2P RIGHT) -> pin23@C2 (former D7 on the NEC D4701AC @C2)</blockquote>
(these connection should be made through the 74244).<br />
Now it was time to start the construction of the actual JOYSTIC SUB. I haven't got equipment to produce real PCBs myself, so given the simpleness of the circuit, I decided on just using a piece of strip board and kynar wires. It ended up looking like this:<br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-YjJdgd-fLtA/Xs1v2kp42qI/AAAAAAAACfs/4gtw3PSCJag1o7SuNZnN5qqwweWrVNRmgCPcBGAYYCw/s1600/530710DE-657A-4658-BE80-E4D32CCB703A-9765-000009EBF820C8F6_zps09e14574.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="764" data-original-width="1023" height="476" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-YjJdgd-fLtA/Xs1v2kp42qI/AAAAAAAACfs/4gtw3PSCJag1o7SuNZnN5qqwweWrVNRmgCPcBGAYYCw/s640/530710DE-657A-4658-BE80-E4D32CCB703A-9765-000009EBF820C8F6_zps09e14574.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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(the lonely pin in the corner is not connected; only added for stability)</div>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-zSOx5bYY1e4/Xs1wXx8a-4I/AAAAAAAACf4/xBgm5Y_vI_8rk5AnTbgtI6Z3xGJp4EcVQCPcBGAYYCw/s1600/CBB955A0-8132-4436-87E1-B4B913354C4F-9765-000009EC09EFB7D8_zps9a084410.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="764" data-original-width="1023" height="476" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-zSOx5bYY1e4/Xs1wXx8a-4I/AAAAAAAACf4/xBgm5Y_vI_8rk5AnTbgtI6Z3xGJp4EcVQCPcBGAYYCw/s640/CBB955A0-8132-4436-87E1-B4B913354C4F-9765-000009EC09EFB7D8_zps9a084410.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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And here it's installed in the sockets:<br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-qtJ_ebPerxw/Xs1y9iOSf8I/AAAAAAAACgA/QWCvGoUNCx0q8Q4v_TfMyu1FE96ywNqWgCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/DF527115-2156-495D-AF92-5A12E947111C-9765-000009EC30276C1F_zps73945aeb.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="764" data-original-width="1023" height="476" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-qtJ_ebPerxw/Xs1y9iOSf8I/AAAAAAAACgA/QWCvGoUNCx0q8Q4v_TfMyu1FE96ywNqWgCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/DF527115-2156-495D-AF92-5A12E947111C-9765-000009EC30276C1F_zps73945aeb.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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At first, I had just hooked the two enable-pins on the 244 (pins 1 and 19) up to GND leaving it enable all the time. However this resulted in some very strange lock-ups when trying to move the controllers and sometimes the game wouldn't even coin up. Hmmm, tried removing my PCB again and make the connections for 1P with just 4 wires in the socket. That worked just fine. But when hooking up the connections for 2P as well, I had the same result as with my PCB. Strange! This made me wonder if some kind of multiplexing might be going on. So I had a close look at the picture of the JOYSTIC SUB from porchys site again. It wasn't easy to see, but it wasn't obvious that the enable-pins should be grounded. So cut the connection to GND, and attached a wire. I tried to start the game poking this wire against some of the other pins in the C2-socket. And when connected to pin 15 (chip-enable on the D4701AC), there were suddenly no lock-ups, and both 1P and 2P controls worked perfectly };-P<br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-6A8lubukA3I/Xs10suU5hbI/AAAAAAAACgM/TRoX05VLcpY-9YQk7YgUjhi67z-1PZFKACLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/CAB3A422-F9F8-42F8-84F9-2458DFFA2A1B-9765-000009EC6CA543A1_zps7b5ebf1d.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="764" data-original-width="1023" height="476" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-6A8lubukA3I/Xs10suU5hbI/AAAAAAAACgM/TRoX05VLcpY-9YQk7YgUjhi67z-1PZFKACLcBGAsYHQ/s640/CAB3A422-F9F8-42F8-84F9-2458DFFA2A1B-9765-000009EC6CA543A1_zps7b5ebf1d.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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So I made a proper connection with a piece of kynar, and my homemade JOYSTIC SUB was done.<br />
Now the last thing missing was the roll-feature. In the trackball version this is done by rolling the ball fast to either side. But when using a digital control, you'll need a button to make the roll. As the game was not originally designed for joysticks, the 3th button is not connected on the edge connector. However TAD cleverly solved this by letting the TEST- and SERVICE-buttons act as roll for 1P and 2P respectively. So adding hook-ups between the 3th button and these two like this<br />
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makes the board act like it's having a standard JAMMA-pinout.<br />
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All the above information has already (through porchy) been passed on the MAMEDEV TEAM and they will correct the comment in the source code and also make a how-to making the JOYSTIC SUB.<br />
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ADDENDUM: <a href="mailto:isolani1973@libero.it" target="_blank">tirino73</a> has made the above rep log into a complete conversion guide over at <a href="http://www.citylan.it/wiki/index.php/Cabal_trackball_to_joystick_conversion" target="_blank">citylan.it</a>.<br />
Later, I also made a small batch of conversion kits, as fans had asked me if I would help them do conversion of their trackball Cabal; facebook posts <a href="https://www.facebook.com/elgensrepairs/posts/141916235978722:0" target="_blank">here</a>, <a href="https://www.facebook.com/elgensrepairs/posts/142223055948040" target="_blank">here</a>, and <a href="https://www.facebook.com/elgensrepairs/posts/143693369134342" target="_blank">here</a>.</div>
Elgenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09955625580194567794noreply@blogger.com15tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4064555688737648169.post-78654587316942869732013-03-28T15:58:00.001+01:002020-06-15T21:42:31.558+02:00Taito Bubble Bobble Bootleg Repair Log & REDUX<div style="text-align: right;">
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About a month ago, my dear friend porchy made <a href="http://www.jammarcade.net/bubble-bobble-redux/" target="_blank">this post</a> on his <a href="http://www.jammarcade.net/" target="_blank">blog</a>. Now it is 'common knowledge' in the arcade society, that bootlegs of Taitos Bubble Bobble doesn't play like the original. The reason why, is that the original board has a custom chip (know as the PS4...the one featuring a picture of Bub from the game on the silk screen) that shares the SRAM with the main CPU (a Z80). The PS4 is a 6800-based CPU also containing some memory in the form of ROM. Every now and then, the PS4 changes some bits and pieces in the SRAM, so that certain events occur in the game. The things that most people notice as wrong is enemy movements and that the sequence of the EXTEND-letters is not randomized.</div>
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The bootleggers back in the days, were not able to extract the program data from the PS4, so they tried to deduce the data by the use of a technique known as 'blackboxing'. You throw a lot of different input at the chip and then record the output. You then analyze both the input and output and try to make your own program do the same as the chip. They did that by exploiting some unused interrupt cycles of the main CPU to execute this PS4-emulation. However they didn't get it quite right.<br />
But recently MAMEDev succeeded in reading the program from a PS4 by using a technique known as <a href="http://members.iinet.net.au/~lantra9jp1/gurudumps1/decap/index.html" target="_blank">decapping</a>. In short, you cut off the top of the IC, look at the silicon plate under a strong microscope, and manually read every single bit. This way they made it possible to make a perfect emulation of the original game in MAME.<br />
Now this is where joaoljr, a brazilian member on the <a href="http://forum.arcadeotaku.com/" target="_blank">arcadeotaku forum</a>, got the idea that it might be possible to make all those old bootlegs play correctly! He took the 6800 assembler-code extracted from the PS4 via decap, rewrote it to Z80 assembler, and excecuted it in the spare interrupt cycles of the main CPU just the like bootleggers back in he days. He calls the project REDUX, and you can read all about it in <a href="http://forum.arcadeotaku.com/viewtopic.php?f=26&t=5154" target="_blank">this thread</a>.<br />
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Phew, that was a long intro...but when I had read all this, I started looking for a cheap bootleg, and soon found an untested one from a french seller on evilBay. From the auction photo, I made sure, that this was indeed a REDUX-able type of bootleg ie doesn't have an 68705 MCU.<br />
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The auction closed at 29.90EURO with a shipping price to Denmark of 13.90EURO; so all-in-all ~45EURO for an untested bootleg Bobble Bobble...sweet! };-P<br />
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When the board arrived, I did the usual visual inspection. It was obvious that this board had been made in a rush; some components had not been pressed correctly into the holes, before the board went into the flowsoldering machine (this is the worst example)<br />
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However all the pins made fine contact, so if I could get it up and running, I didn't bother. Also some rather ugly mod/repairs had been done on the secondary board<br />
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But again, if I could make it work, why bother. One thing about this board looked extremely strange though<br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-EAibeiIwocg/XtVYfBLWHXI/AAAAAAAAChs/mziYckS5mH82a3VR3gNKcpi0zrtyE7yTgCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/54BD2797-6E48-4D35-8CC9-59F81F646CCE-3070-0000028197ACD172_zpsdde30740.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="764" data-original-width="1023" height="476" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-EAibeiIwocg/XtVYfBLWHXI/AAAAAAAAChs/mziYckS5mH82a3VR3gNKcpi0zrtyE7yTgCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/54BD2797-6E48-4D35-8CC9-59F81F646CCE-3070-0000028197ACD172_zpsdde30740.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Notice that the two ribbon connectors doesn't match up. Also notice that both the upper and lower PCB has the parts side facing up. This is very rare on arcade boards, as they are usually back-to-back/front-to-front. I tried to check for contact between GND on the edge connector and GND on an IC on the secondary PCB with my multimeter and found none. Hmmm, this started to smell bad };-S I removed the legs and flipped the secondary board 180 degrees so the PCB was now back-to-back, and viola<br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-pf0vv32eP2c/XtVYtcVM0cI/AAAAAAAACh0/CMkE2dqDMCoUG1wxNle9vYpGNITG4eifQCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/2433540C-9CB3-4C34-A21E-91E3B155FD8E-3070-0000028294E324B2_zpsadc60e7b.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="764" data-original-width="1023" height="476" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-pf0vv32eP2c/XtVYtcVM0cI/AAAAAAAACh0/CMkE2dqDMCoUG1wxNle9vYpGNITG4eifQCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/2433540C-9CB3-4C34-A21E-91E3B155FD8E-3070-0000028294E324B2_zpsadc60e7b.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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suddenly the two ribbon connectors matched up. And I checked for connection between GND on the two PCBs, I got a fine beep };-P Now I was extremely happy, that the seller didn't test this board, as the consequences could have been disastrous. My only hope was, that he was telling the truth.<br />
Next, I started dumping all the ROMs on the board, but when I got to the one labeled "2", I found this<br />
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and ofcause I was unable to read it in the Top. Now it is actually possible to transplant pins from an old IC, if there is just a tiny bit of the pin left, so I tried doing that<br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-HeVSBRc_WeQ/XtVZv9TWUMI/AAAAAAAACiI/BoeDIHaXhMIK-SVtXoupmUDy0V-DUj14wCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/B366D727-5F90-4C0F-8755-1CE56D23B6D1-3070-00000282CFAC674F_zps4e6c22ad.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="764" data-original-width="1023" height="476" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-HeVSBRc_WeQ/XtVZv9TWUMI/AAAAAAAACiI/BoeDIHaXhMIK-SVtXoupmUDy0V-DUj14wCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/B366D727-5F90-4C0F-8755-1CE56D23B6D1-3070-00000282CFAC674F_zps4e6c22ad.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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and was now able to read it in the Top. All the ROMs validated against MAME };-P Next step, was to actually test the board. I found the pinout at <a href="http://www.mikesarcade.com/cgi-bin/spies.cgi?action=url&type=pinout&page=BubbleBobble_56.txt" target="_blank">mikesarcade.com</a> and threw together a QAD adaptor with only power, video, and sound.<br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-J78PR7j6ifQ/XtVaDsZOy5I/AAAAAAAACiU/vlayHYFUvHoL4hWXlEQUKB6aqmpvjXUPwCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/27310810-158B-4B12-8AF0-E264A04C6640-3070-00000282E69B5939_zps324ec559.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="764" data-original-width="1023" height="476" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-J78PR7j6ifQ/XtVaDsZOy5I/AAAAAAAACiU/vlayHYFUvHoL4hWXlEQUKB6aqmpvjXUPwCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/27310810-158B-4B12-8AF0-E264A04C6640-3070-00000282E69B5939_zps324ec559.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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The board booted up just fine<br />
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however the colours looked a bit strange. Either the pinout I had found was wrong, or this was a unique type, where blue and red crossed. I switched the two wires, and got this<br />
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Perfect colours and the sound was fine too. Quickly I hooked up the rest of the wires<br />
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and was able to play a test game...both 1P and 2P worked perfectly...sweeeet! };-P<br />
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Now for the REDUX-part. I downloaded the package with the prepatched ROMs (linked from the <a href="http://forum.arcadeotaku.com/viewtopic.php?f=26&t=5154" target="_blank">thread</a>), and programmed them onto 3 27C256 EPROMs. Slammed them into the board (I have to make some nice custom stickers };-P),<br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-BmduF4QOwb8/XtVbWgcI4VI/AAAAAAAACjE/OoWaLU8WkKwzCOFJsG5DFokI0wQ7ge46gCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/3EF57967-E1ED-4BDC-BED6-B2EF8917AB71-3070-000002835487C322_zps794934e7.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="764" data-original-width="1023" height="476" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-BmduF4QOwb8/XtVbWgcI4VI/AAAAAAAACjE/OoWaLU8WkKwzCOFJsG5DFokI0wQ7ge46gCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/3EF57967-E1ED-4BDC-BED6-B2EF8917AB71-3070-000002835487C322_zps794934e7.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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and fired her up<br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-TtzJHJ2_E2I/XtVb-T53yRI/AAAAAAAACjY/6PbiiWnuKXQbXa1Awxnp23BqS-AkcoaXQCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/4C0E3642-0C0F-45D0-9084-1FA719D7F09E-3070-0000028373780B2E_zps9eeeb710.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="764" data-original-width="1023" height="148" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-TtzJHJ2_E2I/XtVb-T53yRI/AAAAAAAACjY/6PbiiWnuKXQbXa1Awxnp23BqS-AkcoaXQCLcBGAsYHQ/s200/4C0E3642-0C0F-45D0-9084-1FA719D7F09E-3070-0000028373780B2E_zps9eeeb710.jpg" width="200" /></a><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-KIF9QzjFxVk/XtVcFhcxfTI/AAAAAAAACjc/CIXw7MwUkCY_8C7Rt0ldK_n1OT1KmT5-gCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/C1634675-13ED-4D15-AA9C-E8D311C2BADD-3070-000002837C3B3627_zps66a6640d.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="764" data-original-width="1023" height="148" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-KIF9QzjFxVk/XtVcFhcxfTI/AAAAAAAACjc/CIXw7MwUkCY_8C7Rt0ldK_n1OT1KmT5-gCLcBGAsYHQ/s200/C1634675-13ED-4D15-AA9C-E8D311C2BADD-3070-000002837C3B3627_zps66a6640d.jpg" width="200" /></a></div>
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Meesa liiiike dat!!! Haven't played it to the end yet, but it seems to play just flawlessly };-P REDUX FTW!!! A special thnx to joaoljr for the big effort.Elgenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09955625580194567794noreply@blogger.com12tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4064555688737648169.post-81534043829975034852013-03-27T12:46:00.001+01:002020-06-15T21:42:12.805+02:00Capcom 1942 Repair Log<div style="text-align: right;">
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I found this cheap 'untested' original 1942 on evilBay a looooong time ago. Untested usually means tested but defective, but with the 'alternative description', sellers think that they can get more for their defective boards. This was actually one of first 5 boards I ever bought, and I was still young and innocent. So I was full of hope, when I connected the board for the first time. However, all that showed on the screen, was this static screen full of sprites</div>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-W7RytaaYKRQ/Xtaii_zzNHI/AAAAAAAACj8/GpsQ-1wOyt8boinMKJdGXxB7te27a5SXgCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/A8A196BA-89F1-4E2F-90A7-8E0CA2927C71-1907-000001368288A20B_zpsace3665e.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="764" data-original-width="1023" height="476" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-W7RytaaYKRQ/Xtaii_zzNHI/AAAAAAAACj8/GpsQ-1wOyt8boinMKJdGXxB7te27a5SXgCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/A8A196BA-89F1-4E2F-90A7-8E0CA2927C71-1907-000001368288A20B_zpsace3665e.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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This was long before I even started doing reps, so the game was just put on shelf with the optimistic thought, that I might be able to fix it some time in the future.<br />
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At some point I snapped up another cheap original 1942; this one was working. So I tried swapping the secondary boards on the two and saw, that the working one with the secondary board from the defective, booted to this screen and was working fine.<br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-QRrKt-wTWB0/XtaixN3r3JI/AAAAAAAACkA/JZj8RpVPz0YmuOHay3xclWL2cymI6zc_wCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/703130EB-1602-4595-9F28-107945A56D42-1907-0000013699F70B68_zps331ceca3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="764" data-original-width="1023" height="476" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-QRrKt-wTWB0/XtaixN3r3JI/AAAAAAAACkA/JZj8RpVPz0YmuOHay3xclWL2cymI6zc_wCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/703130EB-1602-4595-9F28-107945A56D42-1907-0000013699F70B68_zps331ceca3.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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...the other combo resulted in the same screen as before. So the static screen had to be caused by the primary board. So far so good.<br />
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Now about a year ago, I felt I had the courage to take a real look at this board. During the initial visual inspection, I quickly found this<br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-mBXiQotb9Og/Xtai_p9IcHI/AAAAAAAACkI/iwMFbDLHYY008QGmgtH9MVerfwo_cEwEwCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/7AC0641D-D94F-4E36-91A7-A9DA102D1633-1058-000000BEDBF12ED6_zpse88262dd.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1196" data-original-width="1600" height="239" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-mBXiQotb9Og/Xtai_p9IcHI/AAAAAAAACkI/iwMFbDLHYY008QGmgtH9MVerfwo_cEwEwCLcBGAsYHQ/s320/7AC0641D-D94F-4E36-91A7-A9DA102D1633-1058-000000BEDBF12ED6_zpse88262dd.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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This, the brown patches at each side of the edge connector, looked very much like the result of a major short circuit or some other type of overload. Also a cap was missing in the sound section, so a new one was fitted (easy, as the schematics can be found at porchys site <a href="http://www.jammarcade.net/downloads/schematics/" target="_blank">jammacade.net</a>)<br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-N-oc_Mh9EFo/XtajNnt1UUI/AAAAAAAACkQ/_f978dWofIMs2BFgRyFie4e5N5Gpg4wKgCEwYBhgLKs4DAL1Ocqy2wSoS6rwy3Nz2Pau2_CarQ_mG8nD9O3AxD8fSNAYqe0Jp__aOi2szq4mETEOZ5omlPtiL9NPn6Q_6_PqrCvuwqnFDqe-K3wQ9MDpp7rOx94IRyJoxDqbNpjuhIPJRyqLQT5hCGzTQvFWtD83JAvMKBVeOVLgrN6E_kJm_a0--H17JLXH1gN5rvTOOs9uReRbstbTZn6BqCaCs0X91XAFHfdeZS66O6UTpEQ4vjsZqkRTXHxbjpTYe_w5aJJ-7ViUCupyF9iQ3wUPkn9Wh4v7zStM82c5ZI3oHFZL9322xvFKuE0Dg4qBglUZge2A2E3C31iFuCEV1mIcbzSx-BX-Irsg-x_LU4pTaV_bqsxSRizIoV9XeaOFIsSeGbBulCqiYiU6LCcohUPjhI_bdbGaF8LZs7NGjFO9jq8vcnLsJ0AXsekoZ2u4Ty_Ejvmva_9NKCWgDUeggY1j_KC09Kwk3WL-XYxFD1Io_oSU5Lzmg-K4t2YwOIvU6X51bZbYyn07vLrGGme59kVe2-ycPv-ZTWOQ8on_lGWNeWVCp7zLfQ6WbIpWIQok8rObvYF1vIN96Wpe6h8dYrVh_dlxpkAbxcycCRgcn5pSVMMLL2vYF/s1600/8EC19396-37AA-48D2-B982-596554711643-1907-00000137CE00DEBE_zps0f3f8f11.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="764" data-original-width="1023" height="148" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-N-oc_Mh9EFo/XtajNnt1UUI/AAAAAAAACkQ/_f978dWofIMs2BFgRyFie4e5N5Gpg4wKgCEwYBhgLKs4DAL1Ocqy2wSoS6rwy3Nz2Pau2_CarQ_mG8nD9O3AxD8fSNAYqe0Jp__aOi2szq4mETEOZ5omlPtiL9NPn6Q_6_PqrCvuwqnFDqe-K3wQ9MDpp7rOx94IRyJoxDqbNpjuhIPJRyqLQT5hCGzTQvFWtD83JAvMKBVeOVLgrN6E_kJm_a0--H17JLXH1gN5rvTOOs9uReRbstbTZn6BqCaCs0X91XAFHfdeZS66O6UTpEQ4vjsZqkRTXHxbjpTYe_w5aJJ-7ViUCupyF9iQ3wUPkn9Wh4v7zStM82c5ZI3oHFZL9322xvFKuE0Dg4qBglUZge2A2E3C31iFuCEV1mIcbzSx-BX-Irsg-x_LU4pTaV_bqsxSRizIoV9XeaOFIsSeGbBulCqiYiU6LCcohUPjhI_bdbGaF8LZs7NGjFO9jq8vcnLsJ0AXsekoZ2u4Ty_Ejvmva_9NKCWgDUeggY1j_KC09Kwk3WL-XYxFD1Io_oSU5Lzmg-K4t2YwOIvU6X51bZbYyn07vLrGGme59kVe2-ycPv-ZTWOQ8on_lGWNeWVCp7zLfQ6WbIpWIQok8rObvYF1vIN96Wpe6h8dYrVh_dlxpkAbxcycCRgcn5pSVMMLL2vYF/s200/8EC19396-37AA-48D2-B982-596554711643-1907-00000137CE00DEBE_zps0f3f8f11.jpg" width="200" /></a><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-TzFRibYxUh4/XtajU37zsvI/AAAAAAAACkY/OsvoSr3CZjwwZvRFCPo03wCLSZEXOMHIwCEwYBhgLKs4DAL1Ocqy2wSoS6rwy3Nz2Pau2_CarQ_mG8nD9O3AxD8fSNAYqe0Jp__aOi2szq4mETEOZ5omlPtiL9NPn6Q_6_PqrCvuwqnFDqe-K3wQ9MDpp7rOx94IRyJoxDqbNpjuhIPJRyqLQT5hCGzTQvFWtD83JAvMKBVeOVLgrN6E_kJm_a0--H17JLXH1gN5rvTOOs9uReRbstbTZn6BqCaCs0X91XAFHfdeZS66O6UTpEQ4vjsZqkRTXHxbjpTYe_w5aJJ-7ViUCupyF9iQ3wUPkn9Wh4v7zStM82c5ZI3oHFZL9322xvFKuE0Dg4qBglUZge2A2E3C31iFuCEV1mIcbzSx-BX-Irsg-x_LU4pTaV_bqsxSRizIoV9XeaOFIsSeGbBulCqiYiU6LCcohUPjhI_bdbGaF8LZs7NGjFO9jq8vcnLsJ0AXsekoZ2u4Ty_Ejvmva_9NKCWgDUeggY1j_KC09Kwk3WL-XYxFD1Io_oSU5Lzmg-K4t2YwOIvU6X51bZbYyn07vLrGGme59kVe2-ycPv-ZTWOQ8on_lGWNeWVCp7zLfQ6WbIpWIQok8rObvYF1vIN96Wpe6h8dYrVh_dlxpkAbxcycCRgcn5pSVMMLL2vYF/s1600/D1DDFA19-8252-4084-A520-791B9CF2EAB4-1394-000000EF8050A549_zpsb311c568.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1196" data-original-width="1600" height="149" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-TzFRibYxUh4/XtajU37zsvI/AAAAAAAACkY/OsvoSr3CZjwwZvRFCPo03wCLSZEXOMHIwCEwYBhgLKs4DAL1Ocqy2wSoS6rwy3Nz2Pau2_CarQ_mG8nD9O3AxD8fSNAYqe0Jp__aOi2szq4mETEOZ5omlPtiL9NPn6Q_6_PqrCvuwqnFDqe-K3wQ9MDpp7rOx94IRyJoxDqbNpjuhIPJRyqLQT5hCGzTQvFWtD83JAvMKBVeOVLgrN6E_kJm_a0--H17JLXH1gN5rvTOOs9uReRbstbTZn6BqCaCs0X91XAFHfdeZS66O6UTpEQ4vjsZqkRTXHxbjpTYe_w5aJJ-7ViUCupyF9iQ3wUPkn9Wh4v7zStM82c5ZI3oHFZL9322xvFKuE0Dg4qBglUZge2A2E3C31iFuCEV1mIcbzSx-BX-Irsg-x_LU4pTaV_bqsxSRizIoV9XeaOFIsSeGbBulCqiYiU6LCcohUPjhI_bdbGaF8LZs7NGjFO9jq8vcnLsJ0AXsekoZ2u4Ty_Ejvmva_9NKCWgDUeggY1j_KC09Kwk3WL-XYxFD1Io_oSU5Lzmg-K4t2YwOIvU6X51bZbYyn07vLrGGme59kVe2-ycPv-ZTWOQ8on_lGWNeWVCp7zLfQ6WbIpWIQok8rObvYF1vIN96Wpe6h8dYrVh_dlxpkAbxcycCRgcn5pSVMMLL2vYF/s200/D1DDFA19-8252-4084-A520-791B9CF2EAB4-1394-000000EF8050A549_zpsb311c568.jpg" width="200" /></a></div>
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Other than that, both PCB's looked quite sober and well. Next step was to dump the ROMs on the primary PCB, thereby also reseating them. However, when I got to the 5 ROMs SR03-SR07 I got either this<br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-dZUpTWozctg/XtajnSgAXMI/AAAAAAAACkk/CXRDxTK03awZ7pwAVhzTB3LWMDDvzY-QQCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/72B04B6C-D5CF-4FC8-9BA5-7FFA57C8265B-1907-00000136E77825E4_zps92d5eb44.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="764" data-original-width="1023" height="476" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-dZUpTWozctg/XtajnSgAXMI/AAAAAAAACkk/CXRDxTK03awZ7pwAVhzTB3LWMDDvzY-QQCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/72B04B6C-D5CF-4FC8-9BA5-7FFA57C8265B-1907-00000136E77825E4_zps92d5eb44.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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or this</div>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Ch0UZfnQJoE/Xtaj1xMaXpI/AAAAAAAACko/zxvmKCh13y8nTrAT7miWGPlSfY13jwBeACLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/C7140D92-704A-4EE4-A7D5-0FA29635D63B-1907-00000136FF1D5369_zpsf92ddb4c.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="764" data-original-width="1023" height="476" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Ch0UZfnQJoE/Xtaj1xMaXpI/AAAAAAAACko/zxvmKCh13y8nTrAT7miWGPlSfY13jwBeACLcBGAsYHQ/s640/C7140D92-704A-4EE4-A7D5-0FA29635D63B-1907-00000136FF1D5369_zpsf92ddb4c.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Both cases meant that the ROMs were knackered...ALL 5 of them?!...you don't see that very often. So found the MAME ROM-set and programmed and fitted 5 new ones. Well actually I couldn't find any 27C128 in the scrap pile, so I used 5 27C256 instead. This is done quite easily: You make a ROM-image twice as big, by putting 2 copies of the original image after each other (in a Windows environment this can be done with the copy-command (with the /b option and '+' between the 2 source files) from cmd.exe; on nix-systems you can use the cat-command and pipe the result into a new file). That way it doesn't matter if the most significant address bit is high or low (or floats for that matter), because the same data resides in both the upper and lower part of the ROM; effectively making a 27C256 act as a 27C128.</div>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-CNnU_sRKar0/XtakBR3BDfI/AAAAAAAACkw/5G_bJDYUCzstSDOdofbJl5Lz9S9MJlFhQCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/3C95363C-03B0-40D6-AF5F-2BCD255B9413-1394-000000F25737C3FA_zps09ffecbd.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1196" data-original-width="1600" height="478" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-CNnU_sRKar0/XtakBR3BDfI/AAAAAAAACkw/5G_bJDYUCzstSDOdofbJl5Lz9S9MJlFhQCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/3C95363C-03B0-40D6-AF5F-2BCD255B9413-1394-000000F25737C3FA_zps09ffecbd.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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I still had the static screen though. So next I checked the control signals on the main CPU: Clock, reset, halt etc. They all looked fine, but there was no activity on the main address bus neither the main data bus. This can often be caused by bad work RAM</div>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-h9fCM7WwZ-4/XtakMc5OiwI/AAAAAAAACk4/fsypHfC0vDYOTWGU2ebF4uPxUeUQgIRLwCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/80619EF9-5F6A-4795-92DF-64932011C59A-1907-0000013719CCFCBD_zps4d6092b9.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="764" data-original-width="1023" height="476" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-h9fCM7WwZ-4/XtakMc5OiwI/AAAAAAAACk4/fsypHfC0vDYOTWGU2ebF4uPxUeUQgIRLwCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/80619EF9-5F6A-4795-92DF-64932011C59A-1907-0000013719CCFCBD_zps4d6092b9.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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so I desoldered them both to test them in the Top. They were both fried, so fitted sockets and found 2 replacements from the scrap pile</div>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-8d1zYkwwQJs/XtakWUgzQaI/AAAAAAAACk8/8OvGjPPXvp0iYbkAYYOVlSwJJuuwxza6QCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/9F9169D0-9918-42DE-921D-EDCEE9C2556B-1394-0000010581301CA0_zps7caf395d.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1196" data-original-width="1600" height="478" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-8d1zYkwwQJs/XtakWUgzQaI/AAAAAAAACk8/8OvGjPPXvp0iYbkAYYOVlSwJJuuwxza6QCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/9F9169D0-9918-42DE-921D-EDCEE9C2556B-1394-0000010581301CA0_zps7caf395d.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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However it didn't change a thing on the screen, neither on silent buses. This was as far I got at that time, so back on the shelf it went.</div>
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A couple of weeks ago, I decided to pick this board up again. I had recently acquired my <a href="http://elgensrepairs.blogspot.dk/2012/12/retrofitting-usb-port-on-fluke9010a.html" target="_blank">Fluke9010A</a>, and this would be a perfect chance to use it };-P So started by desoldering the main CPU</div>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-oiSiHvyRNkM/XtakjHgWpzI/AAAAAAAAClE/8674yWEfF98GDI36H8-qgR9GEeyNNmnAwCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/E9BC59A4-0C80-487B-9BCF-FD4CA1FE8195-1058-000000BF2D920379_zps87103fd4.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1196" data-original-width="1600" height="478" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-oiSiHvyRNkM/XtakjHgWpzI/AAAAAAAAClE/8674yWEfF98GDI36H8-qgR9GEeyNNmnAwCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/E9BC59A4-0C80-487B-9BCF-FD4CA1FE8195-1058-000000BF2D920379_zps87103fd4.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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and fitted a socket; notice that I don't use machined pin header strips, as the Fluke works better with standard sockets.</div>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-AC8QfRR0sjY/XtakyNKq66I/AAAAAAAAClM/44hARat0cKYjKXFzqUnw_5mQm9KcfRcwQCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/FAB53FB6-0F3B-4846-A574-59EEDAFC7C08-1058-000000BF472224D3_zpsb2b71124.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1196" data-original-width="1600" height="478" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-AC8QfRR0sjY/XtakyNKq66I/AAAAAAAAClM/44hARat0cKYjKXFzqUnw_5mQm9KcfRcwQCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/FAB53FB6-0F3B-4846-A574-59EEDAFC7C08-1058-000000BF472224D3_zpsb2b71124.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Next, let's power up that beast };-P</div>
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Now the first thing to do, is always the BUS TEST to see if any lines are stuck, floating, or tied together</div>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-gnENDmkeJQU/XtalIBUTdsI/AAAAAAAAClc/5KrJIfvxnIkLoxHLp5QPKo_kb5C6cfwNwCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/A2EF0B87-80F2-4EF7-A072-029A4E5914D6-1058-000000C1F3082F63_zps52038f02.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1196" data-original-width="1600" height="478" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-gnENDmkeJQU/XtalIBUTdsI/AAAAAAAAClc/5KrJIfvxnIkLoxHLp5QPKo_kb5C6cfwNwCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/A2EF0B87-80F2-4EF7-A072-029A4E5914D6-1058-000000C1F3082F63_zps52038f02.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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I turned off the power and checked for direct connection between GND and data pin 3, but found none. So this was likely either a broken TTL, or the short might be on the other side of a mux, latch etc. Did a read-up on the schematics and found, that the first component on the databus after the CPU itself, was the 374 closest to the CPU. So desoldered it to test it in the Top, and was not surprised to see that the verdict was <a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Djj7jW6ny2M" target="_blank">BAD!!!</a></div>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-faeTucpYOGM/XtalarYLd0I/AAAAAAAAClo/4cMon1OrKO0SNWcMfHdMZJUYufSfca4LQCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/246481B8-B3C3-40EA-B7DB-42290C3B2A4A-1058-000000C007D751A4_zps40d4ce9f.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1196" data-original-width="1600" height="478" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-faeTucpYOGM/XtalarYLd0I/AAAAAAAAClo/4cMon1OrKO0SNWcMfHdMZJUYufSfca4LQCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/246481B8-B3C3-40EA-B7DB-42290C3B2A4A-1058-000000C007D751A4_zps40d4ce9f.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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So a socket was fitted and a replacement sourced from a scrap board.</div>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-lrJuDucp-n8/XtaluYTeEAI/AAAAAAAAClw/2NyiFzRp1hEX9V66akPcBNSD1iXQI4o7gCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/081E47B3-93E4-4B39-869B-94EE7783DEA5-1058-000000C17F704CDD_zpsdda88bd4.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1196" data-original-width="1600" height="478" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-lrJuDucp-n8/XtaluYTeEAI/AAAAAAAAClw/2NyiFzRp1hEX9V66akPcBNSD1iXQI4o7gCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/081E47B3-93E4-4B39-869B-94EE7783DEA5-1058-000000C17F704CDD_zpsdda88bd4.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Connected the Fluke again and ran the BUS TEST again. This time I got</div>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-xfar6GRGNNQ/XtamsUGnihI/AAAAAAAACl8/5eA47SHVXR0xC9dig188BGa-OJ4LalKLwCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/47102085-4020-42CE-93B4-A688BFCE760D-1058-000000C2FA791950_zps9d318584.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1196" data-original-width="1600" height="478" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-xfar6GRGNNQ/XtamsUGnihI/AAAAAAAACl8/5eA47SHVXR0xC9dig188BGa-OJ4LalKLwCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/47102085-4020-42CE-93B4-A688BFCE760D-1058-000000C2FA791950_zps9d318584.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Again consulting the schematics, I found that the next component on the databus was this 245 just beside the program-ROMs.</div>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-cc_6drKcs5U/Xtam2suufcI/AAAAAAAACmA/3E11lAK0U0wAeI-oO4fhGpv0npRwV-kTwCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/2F2F37A0-CF58-4014-AE43-9B22152B6D0A-1058-000000C340DC8927_zps22ec2794.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1196" data-original-width="1600" height="478" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-cc_6drKcs5U/Xtam2suufcI/AAAAAAAACmA/3E11lAK0U0wAeI-oO4fhGpv0npRwV-kTwCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/2F2F37A0-CF58-4014-AE43-9B22152B6D0A-1058-000000C340DC8927_zps22ec2794.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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I had a tube of NOS 245's, so tried piggybacking one on top of the suspect</div>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-txqosymzdF8/XtanUU2LYEI/AAAAAAAACmM/d2icVeAZrP4J-d9H2x9WV2tU3TPk2kPLQCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/63E78416-BDCB-4CC9-ABB7-C29EBBECEC49-1058-000000C31AA94134_zps4a601d1b.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1196" data-original-width="1600" height="478" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-txqosymzdF8/XtanUU2LYEI/AAAAAAAACmM/d2icVeAZrP4J-d9H2x9WV2tU3TPk2kPLQCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/63E78416-BDCB-4CC9-ABB7-C29EBBECEC49-1058-000000C31AA94134_zps4a601d1b.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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and now got the following result from the BUS TEST</div>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-XlbdrLzXXAI/XtankYErZSI/AAAAAAAACmU/PzgFuopoCN8GJfiWVRP4CI1-EsuVkwfYgCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/AA8D1074-2147-4368-A438-E153CAE265FE-1058-000000C32E585DE9_zps425b4ccc.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1196" data-original-width="1600" height="478" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-XlbdrLzXXAI/XtankYErZSI/AAAAAAAACmU/PzgFuopoCN8GJfiWVRP4CI1-EsuVkwfYgCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/AA8D1074-2147-4368-A438-E153CAE265FE-1058-000000C32E585DE9_zps425b4ccc.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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...a clear indication, that something was rotten (in the State of Denmark };-P). So desoldered and tested it...once again a BAD!!! So a socket was fitted and the 245 from the tube installed.</div>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-cb3d5miJhsM/Xtan-KkdSvI/AAAAAAAACmc/cvpDAEWueEUxM7eRx21bwbuSpN7bB_i9gCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/221837A0-5465-4E13-87BD-FD4F7A10D144-1058-000000C367F99096_zps8a5d5090.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1196" data-original-width="1600" height="478" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-cb3d5miJhsM/Xtan-KkdSvI/AAAAAAAACmc/cvpDAEWueEUxM7eRx21bwbuSpN7bB_i9gCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/221837A0-5465-4E13-87BD-FD4F7A10D144-1058-000000C367F99096_zps8a5d5090.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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(Yes I do know, that the 367 just beside it is now also socketed; I was a bit tired at the time and accidentally desoldered the wrong IC };-D When off-board anyway, I tested it in the Top, and it tested OK.) Now I finally got</div>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ODgE2rYdCpo/XtaoKb-Fm_I/AAAAAAAACmg/td7EOeAwOywLuEZqH3YsWtmAMTW10DlCwCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/402AB81E-E4EA-403C-8456-73F04898341E-1863-00000186F58317C3_zpsdd8a2435.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1196" data-original-width="1600" height="478" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ODgE2rYdCpo/XtaoKb-Fm_I/AAAAAAAACmg/td7EOeAwOywLuEZqH3YsWtmAMTW10DlCwCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/402AB81E-E4EA-403C-8456-73F04898341E-1863-00000186F58317C3_zpsdd8a2435.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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With shaky hands I prepared the "RUN UUT"-function,</div>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-mFruJCRXk58/XtaoV97wNWI/AAAAAAAACmo/V5wbx589_mEfjxGVFNnUBLAjoZ2weO2rACLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/D297BF76-9A98-4029-9915-058B32B2DAC2-1058-000000C37FF4D5F4_zps99e3878c.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1196" data-original-width="1600" height="478" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-mFruJCRXk58/XtaoV97wNWI/AAAAAAAACmo/V5wbx589_mEfjxGVFNnUBLAjoZ2weO2rACLcBGAsYHQ/s640/D297BF76-9A98-4029-9915-058B32B2DAC2-1058-000000C37FF4D5F4_zps99e3878c.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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pressed the 'YES'-button, aaaand</div>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-wEwPmAKdlgA/XtaohZv_-uI/AAAAAAAACmw/ITf29Uo4WLAvgeq_DaLGi58jNRSnsP3zgCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/5CC229C9-8418-48FA-B162-B2954B090A70-1058-000000C38BD2915D_zps9b13f395.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1196" data-original-width="1600" height="149" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-wEwPmAKdlgA/XtaohZv_-uI/AAAAAAAACmw/ITf29Uo4WLAvgeq_DaLGi58jNRSnsP3zgCLcBGAsYHQ/s200/5CC229C9-8418-48FA-B162-B2954B090A70-1058-000000C38BD2915D_zps9b13f395.jpg" width="200" /></a><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-PuhyAE-8b00/XtaomomRNkI/AAAAAAAACm4/OCYbIfK-k_A3dhZyDXnPqoSnXbfZ6dlQgCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/CFF05EC8-F4CB-4628-B8C8-F1CF25BA7782-1058-000000C3A3CB2F16_zps691f59cd.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1196" data-original-width="1600" height="149" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-PuhyAE-8b00/XtaomomRNkI/AAAAAAAACm4/OCYbIfK-k_A3dhZyDXnPqoSnXbfZ6dlQgCLcBGAsYHQ/s200/CFF05EC8-F4CB-4628-B8C8-F1CF25BA7782-1058-000000C3A3CB2F16_zps691f59cd.jpg" width="200" /></a></div>
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It's aliiiive };-P Even though the start screen was olive green and not black, the attractmode played fine with no colour issues. Coined up the game and hit the start-button. Right upon start-up, the plane flew all the way to the right, but beside that, the controls worked fine. Turned the board off again, removed the Fluke-pod and reinstalled the original Z80.</div>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-oki_4X_DcJw/XtaoyOqZwsI/AAAAAAAACnA/5-_ngyqEd-Ao8gwxnYghxX4LElm2VcLXgCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/4C477C29-3887-4805-8CEA-C57B4849C37D-1058-000000C3BA088487_zps2b397a98.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1196" data-original-width="1600" height="478" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-oki_4X_DcJw/XtaoyOqZwsI/AAAAAAAACnA/5-_ngyqEd-Ao8gwxnYghxX4LElm2VcLXgCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/4C477C29-3887-4805-8CEA-C57B4849C37D-1058-000000C3BA088487_zps2b397a98.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Hmmm, could seem like the main CPU was toasted as well. Found an original Zilog from a scrap-board, installed it, and the board now worked just like when the Fluke was running it.</div>
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I decided to address the control issue first. By using the continuity tester, I traced the 'RIGHT'-pad on the edge connector back to this 367 at A4</div>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Aie9PyHDhq8/XtapBWW1BDI/AAAAAAAACnI/7471Q7U1Jf4gt1RyEnwc1KLNub-Rm72NgCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/AB3F05C3-8963-4617-BBE5-4B9B6679A82E-1058-000000C48BB4D240_zps3dc19499.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" data-original-height="1196" data-original-width="1600" height="478" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Aie9PyHDhq8/XtapBWW1BDI/AAAAAAAACnI/7471Q7U1Jf4gt1RyEnwc1KLNub-Rm72NgCLcBGAsYHQ/s320/AB3F05C3-8963-4617-BBE5-4B9B6679A82E-1058-000000C48BB4D240_zps3dc19499.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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As all these 3 367's are already socketed, it was an easy task to test it in the Top. It tested BAD!!! and a working one from scrap was installed.</div>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-hwGWFT0Q1bQ/XtawTUQ0hOI/AAAAAAAACnY/7Uz2Osky8zYn2XeDhT3lLfgx3ky7hyTjQCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/E032B7A3-DF3D-4983-A0EF-16C483F46B51-1058-000000C4B0C99E28_zpsb7e720ae.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1196" data-original-width="1600" height="478" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-hwGWFT0Q1bQ/XtawTUQ0hOI/AAAAAAAACnY/7Uz2Osky8zYn2XeDhT3lLfgx3ky7hyTjQCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/E032B7A3-DF3D-4983-A0EF-16C483F46B51-1058-000000C4B0C99E28_zpsb7e720ae.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Now the controls were perfect, so I had to address the olive green start screen. So far, I had only been concentrating my attention on the main PCB; now I turned to the secondary one, as this handles the graphics. As usual I did visual inspection, but found it in good shape. Next I started dumping the ROMs. But when I got to SR13, the Top reported unconnected pins...</div>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-eFmTWu-DZl4/XtaweKMTDFI/AAAAAAAACnc/7_UloLRxq7UOXdSP14HzVURvKVvdHHfiACLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/44E86F3E-1684-400B-8A02-577B9B7ACAEC-1058-000000C4BF0CAC2A_zpsa29fa32b.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1196" data-original-width="1600" height="478" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-eFmTWu-DZl4/XtaweKMTDFI/AAAAAAAACnc/7_UloLRxq7UOXdSP14HzVURvKVvdHHfiACLcBGAsYHQ/s640/44E86F3E-1684-400B-8A02-577B9B7ACAEC-1058-000000C4BF0CAC2A_zpsa29fa32b.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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So I sourced (scrap), erased, and programmed a new one with the image from the MAME ROM-set, and presto:</div>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-p_8Q914V_wk/Xtawpz1zmjI/AAAAAAAACng/8LqohI0kmpY7nwR_-ypw0jERQ2FFqTpOgCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/45DF5588-5AE5-4768-8F0E-82BBB0A26D58-1058-000000C4CD1063C9_zpsdbb47a20.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1196" data-original-width="1600" height="478" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-p_8Q914V_wk/Xtawpz1zmjI/AAAAAAAACng/8LqohI0kmpY7nwR_-ypw0jERQ2FFqTpOgCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/45DF5588-5AE5-4768-8F0E-82BBB0A26D58-1058-000000C4CD1063C9_zpsdbb47a20.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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black background on the start screen restored };-P</div>
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Last but not least, I borrowed some of my <a href="http://nustopperhesten.blogspot.dk/" target="_blank">wife's</a> coloured crea-tape and made some lovely looking new stickers for the newly programmed ROMs (note to self: buy heart shaped stickers for future reps };-P)</div>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-G3HGDVrHVHI/Xtaw2UKYRYI/AAAAAAAACno/2qEgjZ_98Qwi2kb7FtklWRptkaNkukrewCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/B1821DD8-3F3A-4369-9EE2-55BEDDBF70CC-1058-000000C4F1600760_zps4ccd3b37.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1196" data-original-width="1600" height="149" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-G3HGDVrHVHI/Xtaw2UKYRYI/AAAAAAAACno/2qEgjZ_98Qwi2kb7FtklWRptkaNkukrewCLcBGAsYHQ/s200/B1821DD8-3F3A-4369-9EE2-55BEDDBF70CC-1058-000000C4F1600760_zps4ccd3b37.jpg" width="200" /></a><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-knX5JAuJjMM/Xtaw9bCT0oI/AAAAAAAACns/yxY0EXV7imkZ61rPq5xY9WBO1Qwuczk8QCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/F85273B5-7F6B-4C8B-81B2-3C2DEA8B3A38-1058-000000C4E6EF3D13_zpsd1c391af.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1196" data-original-width="1600" height="149" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-knX5JAuJjMM/Xtaw9bCT0oI/AAAAAAAACns/yxY0EXV7imkZ61rPq5xY9WBO1Qwuczk8QCLcBGAsYHQ/s200/F85273B5-7F6B-4C8B-81B2-3C2DEA8B3A38-1058-000000C4E6EF3D13_zpsd1c391af.jpg" width="200" /></a></div>
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As I have mentioned before, I can't stand the sorry excuse for music in this game, and I don't think much of the gameplay...so I will try to trade this board for some more defective ones };-P</div>
Elgenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09955625580194567794noreply@blogger.com6tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4064555688737648169.post-39695318880855245762013-03-03T16:13:00.000+01:002020-06-15T21:41:47.682+02:00Capcom Three Wonders Repair Log<div style="text-align: right;">
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This board was sent to me by my dear friend Alf81. When turned on, all you got was a black screen and something that sounded like a burp from the speakers. As this game runs on CPS1 hardware, the thesis was, that it had committed suicide. But what does that actually mean?</div>
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Well, by the end of the Golden Age (mid 70's to mid 80's), the arcade manufacturers discovered, that if they made the games so durable that they lasted too long, the arcade owners would not buy new games. They then came up the idea to install a mechanism into the games, that would render them useless after some time. And even unrepairable by 3rd party arcade reppers. This is what is known as a <i>suicide mechanism</i>, but in fact the name is a bit miss leading, as it implies an active action; in fact it's kind of like the opposite:<br />
(EDIT: Womble (RCM, AussieArcade, etc.) pointed out in a comment, that I'm on the wrong track with this theory. As he has far more experience than me, and as his explanation sounds more plausible, I think he's right. You can read it <a href="http://www.aussiearcade.com.au/showthread.php/57264-Capcom-Three-Wonders-Repair-Log" target="_blank">here</a>.)<br />
The principle is almost the same for all flavours. You take a part of the game code (usually vital for the game to run, but early examples also includes only the sound system ie Shinobi) and encrypt it before putting it onto the ROMs. Then you put the decryption key into a small block of RAM hidden inside some custom chip and add a battery on the board to keep the piece of RAM alive even when the game is turned off. At some point, the battery will run out of power, and the RAM will loose the decryption key forever. The game can no longer read it's own game code and is unplayable, and as the decryption key is gone, the game can't be 'fixed' by anyone else but the manufacture (at a high price).<br />
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Cosmetically the board seemed to be in good shape.<br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-akTRDjqjEbc/Xtay6tT3HcI/AAAAAAAACn8/Q4yGOcq0ImM1khG7h6QhX0RH8FudxlQ5ACLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/1bcfe503-fc06-4be8-895c-67a145983aea_zpse727c196.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="764" data-original-width="1023" height="476" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-akTRDjqjEbc/Xtay6tT3HcI/AAAAAAAACn8/Q4yGOcq0ImM1khG7h6QhX0RH8FudxlQ5ACLcBGAsYHQ/s640/1bcfe503-fc06-4be8-895c-67a145983aea_zpse727c196.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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so right away I had a look at the <a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tDfZ5HmA6fs" target="_blank">usual suspect</a>, the battery. On CPS1 systems, the battery as well as the custom chip containing the RAM for the decryption key, is placed on the little sub board called the C-board<br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-a-2Pmkq1hrQ/XtazODTFKnI/AAAAAAAACoE/EzFPu8Zcl1opmyHEBwLwrBkHzVlcytdcACLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/fdfc253c-e471-4537-a3ee-c84df1bb526c_zps35f60e62.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="764" data-original-width="1023" height="476" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-a-2Pmkq1hrQ/XtazODTFKnI/AAAAAAAACoE/EzFPu8Zcl1opmyHEBwLwrBkHzVlcytdcACLcBGAsYHQ/s640/fdfc253c-e471-4537-a3ee-c84df1bb526c_zps35f60e62.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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So I tried putting a voltmeter on the poor thing and got this<br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Ock7-_hKs68/XtazdkhbOyI/AAAAAAAACoI/PFFJ0xHgrGYCF6COWryLAWpJTXGA3-xIgCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/8598AFA5-9D95-42BB-BB35-F6DABBFD3F1E-5979-0000053271C67D99_zpsa449ff6f.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1196" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Ock7-_hKs68/XtazdkhbOyI/AAAAAAAACoI/PFFJ0xHgrGYCF6COWryLAWpJTXGA3-xIgCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/8598AFA5-9D95-42BB-BB35-F6DABBFD3F1E-5979-0000053271C67D99_zpsa449ff6f.jpg" width="478" /></a></div>
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This battery was surely stone dead! So what can you do? Well, when I said before, that suicided games was not fixable by any 3rd party repper, that was not entirely true. Cause here in modern times, ultracool software/hardware hackers (not me) have found ways to pre-decrypt the code so that it will fit on the ROMs. It is then possible to put the custom chip into it's non-decryption mode, and it will be able to read the (now) decrypted ROMs. The game will rise from the dead.<br />
The #1 place to get these pre-decrypted ROM images is at <a href="http://www.arcadecollecting.com/dead/dead.html" target="_blank">The Dead Battery Society</a>. Here you will also find instructions on how the make the appropriate hardware modifications to your dead game. I this case (CPS1), you have to first remove the battery, as it will not be needed anymore.<br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-5jvZf359xfw/Xtazt-wHobI/AAAAAAAACoU/JzzOpEZ5JtQweAUbURgRBSFFaCjuOAnTQCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/B2BF40E0-78EB-4759-A23F-F0059A5DC4EF-4692-0000041911EC06F6_zps2457304b.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="764" data-original-width="1023" height="476" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-5jvZf359xfw/Xtazt-wHobI/AAAAAAAACoU/JzzOpEZ5JtQweAUbURgRBSFFaCjuOAnTQCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/B2BF40E0-78EB-4759-A23F-F0059A5DC4EF-4692-0000041911EC06F6_zps2457304b.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Then break the connection on two adjacent grounded pins on the custom chip and set them high instead. I'm not that good at SMD's, but with a little help from liquid flux, I managed to pull it through };-P<br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-q7QNu_1--Qo/Xtaz4lqWncI/AAAAAAAACoY/KdU-_vxDzvs6uWvfZcDn77otpQFvvTmHQCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/8675E313-E108-4D14-8CFA-1BB49DA3E379-4692-0000041907226292_zps83d837e6.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="764" data-original-width="1023" height="476" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-q7QNu_1--Qo/Xtaz4lqWncI/AAAAAAAACoY/KdU-_vxDzvs6uWvfZcDn77otpQFvvTmHQCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/8675E313-E108-4D14-8CFA-1BB49DA3E379-4692-0000041907226292_zps83d837e6.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Next step was to update the ROMs. First I dumped the ROMs already on the board to find out what version it was<br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-bgYHThSeAZ8/Xta0Cw6fVEI/AAAAAAAACog/Hf7gPajLkXoJhpZ57Wj8DjkKivYFCtRQwCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/4C79652B-0677-4A8A-A22C-F2619BEF25CD-6509-000005CBA8842623_zps37b1d800.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1196" data-original-width="1600" height="478" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-bgYHThSeAZ8/Xta0Cw6fVEI/AAAAAAAACog/Hf7gPajLkXoJhpZ57Wj8DjkKivYFCtRQwCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/4C79652B-0677-4A8A-A22C-F2619BEF25CD-6509-000005CBA8842623_zps37b1d800.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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From this it was obvious, that this was a 'World' version. However, at present time, decrypted ROMs (30, 31, 35, 36) only exsists for the US version. So in order to make it work, I would have to replace the other region specific ROMs (29, 34) as well. As I don't like erasing the original ROMs of a game before I know that my rep works, I went hunting for 27C010's in the scrap pile, and started the cumbersome task of <a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vSzCSavVaDE" target="_blank">cleaning windows</a> and UV-erasing the EPROMs. But after a couple of cycles, I had 6 working ICs<br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-lJAmrWjIgk4/Xta0NprLkpI/AAAAAAAACoo/Fn0eY47u-agEkk_w08et-lU0d_a24RQ8ACLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/70C313CF-9D34-4DB1-97CE-7E5BDEF8146A-4692-000004191BC482AF_zps61b984c4.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="764" data-original-width="1023" height="476" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-lJAmrWjIgk4/Xta0NprLkpI/AAAAAAAACoo/Fn0eY47u-agEkk_w08et-lU0d_a24RQ8ACLcBGAsYHQ/s640/70C313CF-9D34-4DB1-97CE-7E5BDEF8146A-4692-000004191BC482AF_zps61b984c4.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Next we program them,<br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-77XvxyiJhiM/Xta0f7tANEI/AAAAAAAACo0/9Wo8yqkgeLY-YkNfHygtoHgVUMw3vYZsgCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/87d07e4c-d939-445e-b8ba-a203c992cfe2_zpse8b209e4.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="764" data-original-width="1023" height="476" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-77XvxyiJhiM/Xta0f7tANEI/AAAAAAAACo0/9Wo8yqkgeLY-YkNfHygtoHgVUMw3vYZsgCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/87d07e4c-d939-445e-b8ba-a203c992cfe2_zpse8b209e4.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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slam them into the board,<br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-tzJK7DrR1iQ/Xta0sVzHIiI/AAAAAAAACo4/guKtV3xB33sp6PXsceycFeQCeop6kPjGwCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/21B84265-0A67-44C6-A10B-991A77974F22-4692-000004195DC8D720_zpsbd1b4e90.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="764" data-original-width="1023" height="476" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-tzJK7DrR1iQ/Xta0sVzHIiI/AAAAAAAACo4/guKtV3xB33sp6PXsceycFeQCeop6kPjGwCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/21B84265-0A67-44C6-A10B-991A77974F22-4692-000004195DC8D720_zpsbd1b4e90.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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and try it out<br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ViJJlYHQXsE/Xta03svtvgI/AAAAAAAACpA/4eY3-CC6ozIGLFClLDxDVzOSAVY3mGjmACLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/D177368F-BB45-44F1-B922-F132B99ADCFB-4692-0000041947A7C06F_zpsbbe8332f.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="764" data-original-width="1023" height="148" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ViJJlYHQXsE/Xta03svtvgI/AAAAAAAACpA/4eY3-CC6ozIGLFClLDxDVzOSAVY3mGjmACLcBGAsYHQ/s200/D177368F-BB45-44F1-B922-F132B99ADCFB-4692-0000041947A7C06F_zpsbbe8332f.jpg" width="200" /></a><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-6Ro54_6aS6E/Xta07-oskcI/AAAAAAAACpI/BM1h3_R9l8IyeNzIwgbecIAJA2CvBWB2gCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/8C9C2250-0AA6-40D1-A470-071DFA81653F-4692-000004193E278709_zps5326d6ae.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="764" data-original-width="1023" height="148" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-6Ro54_6aS6E/Xta07-oskcI/AAAAAAAACpI/BM1h3_R9l8IyeNzIwgbecIAJA2CvBWB2gCLcBGAsYHQ/s200/8C9C2250-0AA6-40D1-A470-071DFA81653F-4692-000004193E278709_zps5326d6ae.jpg" width="200" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-lNGzc4_dtg4/Xta1Q2y4LSI/AAAAAAAACpU/dXBMDOiXbpEm1IS9CXveeJILi0y_VGR1wCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/322721F2-AF5D-41E3-8E59-A304900F2280-4692-00000419320BA7E2_zpsfb5cdb67.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="764" data-original-width="1023" height="148" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-lNGzc4_dtg4/Xta1Q2y4LSI/AAAAAAAACpU/dXBMDOiXbpEm1IS9CXveeJILi0y_VGR1wCLcBGAsYHQ/s200/322721F2-AF5D-41E3-8E59-A304900F2280-4692-00000419320BA7E2_zpsfb5cdb67.jpg" width="200" /></a><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-8amy8gzJeKU/Xta1VRPgEcI/AAAAAAAACpY/X4sU4BkpdMkHeI7OqvzaiiUUWQlvVsHkACLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/66437DD2-EB5B-4B45-BA47-3844B7931597-4692-0000041954C2139F_zps3d15cdea.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="764" data-original-width="1023" height="148" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-8amy8gzJeKU/Xta1VRPgEcI/AAAAAAAACpY/X4sU4BkpdMkHeI7OqvzaiiUUWQlvVsHkACLcBGAsYHQ/s200/66437DD2-EB5B-4B45-BA47-3844B7931597-4692-0000041954C2139F_zps3d15cdea.jpg" width="200" /></a></div>
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It's Alive! It's ALIIIIIIVE!!! MUAHAHAHAHA!};-P<br />
Please notice though, that the select screen is a bit blue-ish. This is apparently a known issue with this game. However it does look a bit art. But the game-play is absolutely perfect.<br />
As a last thing, I moved the old stickers over to the new ROMs,<br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-yHLb4ET4Zb8/Xta1kbIv-2I/AAAAAAAACpg/7OrbvRqy5awYuhxY84H5CpZG0lcDTetZQCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/B132B0AC-A879-40C8-9882-E61778B37E80-4692-0000041967F137B4_zps838cf6cf.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="764" data-original-width="1023" height="476" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-yHLb4ET4Zb8/Xta1kbIv-2I/AAAAAAAACpg/7OrbvRqy5awYuhxY84H5CpZG0lcDTetZQCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/B132B0AC-A879-40C8-9882-E61778B37E80-4692-0000041967F137B4_zps838cf6cf.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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and the game is ready to be sent back to it's rightful owner };-P<br />
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UPDATE:<br />
My dear friend Charter McCloskey aka Alf81 has sent me these nice photos of him unpacking the game, turning the screen in his Egret, the game running, and a photo of him self showing just how pleased he is to be able to play his 3Wonders again };-P<br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Mid-RGjlxIg/Xta1xeFhoZI/AAAAAAAACpo/6RMZxTx6UH8rZFABRcw3fqOd0NF_fRHGACLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/712E9888-1957-47B3-9A92-86CF98F2ACFE-5272-0000042BC3AFD599_zpsa9c99392.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="150" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Mid-RGjlxIg/Xta1xeFhoZI/AAAAAAAACpo/6RMZxTx6UH8rZFABRcw3fqOd0NF_fRHGACLcBGAsYHQ/s200/712E9888-1957-47B3-9A92-86CF98F2ACFE-5272-0000042BC3AFD599_zpsa9c99392.jpg" width="200" /></a><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ZvrF-FQjQRA/Xta11baDA0I/AAAAAAAACpw/182nrPMzOE08-j9e59Kd7hrXWzoyePREgCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/7DD5ADC9-0BFD-4E7C-803B-7866396F8633-5272-0000042BAD199A40_zpsbe22a986.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="150" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ZvrF-FQjQRA/Xta11baDA0I/AAAAAAAACpw/182nrPMzOE08-j9e59Kd7hrXWzoyePREgCLcBGAsYHQ/s200/7DD5ADC9-0BFD-4E7C-803B-7866396F8633-5272-0000042BAD199A40_zpsbe22a986.jpg" width="200" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-_d-q4hYJ85A/Xta2C3bEDAI/AAAAAAAACp4/-rSkrZFEBhgl9ZSJAyeRwMVnS4oL5W3YgCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/A64B299B-D914-4C68-B8AB-E55E9D16A61B-5272-0000042BD1C1E479_zps716b6622.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="768" data-original-width="1024" height="150" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-_d-q4hYJ85A/Xta2C3bEDAI/AAAAAAAACp4/-rSkrZFEBhgl9ZSJAyeRwMVnS4oL5W3YgCLcBGAsYHQ/s200/A64B299B-D914-4C68-B8AB-E55E9D16A61B-5272-0000042BD1C1E479_zps716b6622.jpg" width="200" /></a><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-6slMhiFWWyk/Xta2IdhLQNI/AAAAAAAACqA/KF3Aj3kLxS4npJ_6vxXxNrVJAAWkkxjvgCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/130B8141-5AA0-4C89-A2B6-BFEDE59501ED-5272-0000042B8810BC7F_zps894e0293.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="150" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-6slMhiFWWyk/Xta2IdhLQNI/AAAAAAAACqA/KF3Aj3kLxS4npJ_6vxXxNrVJAAWkkxjvgCLcBGAsYHQ/s200/130B8141-5AA0-4C89-A2B6-BFEDE59501ED-5272-0000042B8810BC7F_zps894e0293.jpg" width="200" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-z8uhZ15WMMo/Xta2UdZ8gBI/AAAAAAAACqI/j0WEHB16370HHjkArWMUGF4YQ-_dgrGeQCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/13D3984F-6F3F-4484-B77B-90A3D8898A1F-5272-0000042B9F71ABB2_zps1deefc67.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="150" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-z8uhZ15WMMo/Xta2UdZ8gBI/AAAAAAAACqI/j0WEHB16370HHjkArWMUGF4YQ-_dgrGeQCLcBGAsYHQ/s200/13D3984F-6F3F-4484-B77B-90A3D8898A1F-5272-0000042B9F71ABB2_zps1deefc67.jpg" width="200" /></a><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-hBP9Uo0b0B4/Xta2elZbQ2I/AAAAAAAACqQ/S1FwqO7SxswpDIDxJZJkFsoytVUS7nl6gCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/36D1FFDE-92D2-4A0A-BE18-C5E83B259616-5272-0000042BDF72C749_zps6d6910b0.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="150" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-hBP9Uo0b0B4/Xta2elZbQ2I/AAAAAAAACqQ/S1FwqO7SxswpDIDxJZJkFsoytVUS7nl6gCLcBGAsYHQ/s200/36D1FFDE-92D2-4A0A-BE18-C5E83B259616-5272-0000042BDF72C749_zps6d6910b0.jpg" width="200" /></a></div>
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Elgenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09955625580194567794noreply@blogger.com6tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4064555688737648169.post-40722506533075655512013-02-14T21:01:00.001+01:002020-06-15T21:41:27.687+02:00Capcom Gun Smoke Bootleg Repair Log<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
All I used for this easy 'rep' was</div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-iLhPXflt9SI/XtldzbgTURI/AAAAAAAACqo/Xz7D-98ZzmI7jGlNdHV8alGwFtdggjqJwCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/5A239E34-A795-43FF-B2BD-873D22E611B7-3268-000003C6BCC2AC01_zpsa06e9b25.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="764" data-original-width="1023" height="476" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-iLhPXflt9SI/XtldzbgTURI/AAAAAAAACqo/Xz7D-98ZzmI7jGlNdHV8alGwFtdggjqJwCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/5A239E34-A795-43FF-B2BD-873D22E611B7-3268-000003C6BCC2AC01_zpsa06e9b25.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">my flathead screwdriver; actually my favourite tool...really love it <3</td></tr>
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<div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ZV5Pgw193e4/XtlfDEWYVcI/AAAAAAAACq0/qrLLstF_qQAJPoa-FRcFnYBPb-6J4-TEACEwYBhgLKs4DAL1OcqwQZrXtQB5W5iKwSP_Ot-kvgsaBjWr5lWdI9SB3ystOsoIR5MUCQnj5PmjlhpRWasbNBEtR5A3bi6LJoB0Zf87I4CQchoujtsqb1iphzPr454Z-V8GuNdG0uJTY2aUw3aKJryy8rog1oE36uviZbm_eI2fs4AeDaIjw8KaIIji8WhsTf7-8vqoCLI9WGl7xIk5rwmZka4EEn6uyX77ctn7Fnetcdpy9zBSPTDUQbEVx_D-u10rTJDT5z6W_2G0cJch0dOOT5sXXHOwpwe12els-drjXUsPPs97Xg5nXzL35DO3GPTn_UU2ScHMpnEzq5e4mTFiC-oXm4jH20fcRgXMTraKWfM5jqi1K1ySXDT9ka5jvv-Kl_ZR8prjzMfVhIolt_YItiqYnAGSRqPlgUgNg8E9og1S51eArNHVu0PCrc6Y0dTDOz3Oqsjcp_M3KNYI0qcSTELADQc2QznX_2O5Bgeuzd8XoxeseJFIPKesO3XQ5a8KcF8K_Z3lbBnwnUAMFhxi9j1WdlaB7N7nbmxE13IgsYk-OSKpmOQFnlZxLRaG4HFZXjAgmQD451aQ8LJGc6bcmX0-4uDX-3wkGK3ZxeBsSxcII-UW1MJbF5fYF/s1600/AB4D8F2E-C2BA-49A8-B5B5-D6C65A813A81-3268-000003C6C8A317F6_zps9f1f606e.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="764" data-original-width="1023" height="476" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ZV5Pgw193e4/XtlfDEWYVcI/AAAAAAAACq0/qrLLstF_qQAJPoa-FRcFnYBPb-6J4-TEACEwYBhgLKs4DAL1OcqwQZrXtQB5W5iKwSP_Ot-kvgsaBjWr5lWdI9SB3ystOsoIR5MUCQnj5PmjlhpRWasbNBEtR5A3bi6LJoB0Zf87I4CQchoujtsqb1iphzPr454Z-V8GuNdG0uJTY2aUw3aKJryy8rog1oE36uviZbm_eI2fs4AeDaIjw8KaIIji8WhsTf7-8vqoCLI9WGl7xIk5rwmZka4EEn6uyX77ctn7Fnetcdpy9zBSPTDUQbEVx_D-u10rTJDT5z6W_2G0cJch0dOOT5sXXHOwpwe12els-drjXUsPPs97Xg5nXzL35DO3GPTn_UU2ScHMpnEzq5e4mTFiC-oXm4jH20fcRgXMTraKWfM5jqi1K1ySXDT9ka5jvv-Kl_ZR8prjzMfVhIolt_YItiqYnAGSRqPlgUgNg8E9og1S51eArNHVu0PCrc6Y0dTDOz3Oqsjcp_M3KNYI0qcSTELADQc2QznX_2O5Bgeuzd8XoxeseJFIPKesO3XQ5a8KcF8K_Z3lbBnwnUAMFhxi9j1WdlaB7N7nbmxE13IgsYk-OSKpmOQFnlZxLRaG4HFZXjAgmQD451aQ8LJGc6bcmX0-4uDX-3wkGK3ZxeBsSxcII-UW1MJbF5fYF/s640/AB4D8F2E-C2BA-49A8-B5B5-D6C65A813A81-3268-000003C6C8A317F6_zps9f1f606e.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: 12.8px;">my trusty soledering iron</span></td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-XWQxTCZAkL0/XtlhEih5yhI/AAAAAAAACq8/netIJCWkXfU9lgiFEOwVkK6ub9wy3sOPQCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/15D8DB99-D337-45F8-9D1C-D891EBC5B1AA-3268-000003C6D41140EF_zps5cb49a64.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="764" data-original-width="1023" height="476" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-XWQxTCZAkL0/XtlhEih5yhI/AAAAAAAACq8/netIJCWkXfU9lgiFEOwVkK6ub9wy3sOPQCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/15D8DB99-D337-45F8-9D1C-D891EBC5B1AA-3268-000003C6D41140EF_zps5cb49a64.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">and a bit of common sense</td></tr>
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I got this board as a part of the trade for this <a href="http://elgensrepairs.blogspot.dk/2013/01/capcom-1942-bootleg-repair-log.html" target="_blank">bootleg 1942</a> that I'd just recently fixed. I was told that the board booted and coined up, but when pressing start, it would freeze. The pinout (2 x 28) was a bit strange; not like anything I'd seen before (certainly not Capcom Classic)<br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-UZXvUpEsNyo/XtliK7F83mI/AAAAAAAACrE/NdFXcJE5XTUnAdsoNTdCKLVzoJxmCGn0QCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/7872FAFE-4B19-4BD2-BA55-2B73C8417A16-3741-0000041D8EAEE333_zps06dc2ac8.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1196" data-original-width="1600" height="149" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-UZXvUpEsNyo/XtliK7F83mI/AAAAAAAACrE/NdFXcJE5XTUnAdsoNTdCKLVzoJxmCGn0QCLcBGAsYHQ/s200/7872FAFE-4B19-4BD2-BA55-2B73C8417A16-3741-0000041D8EAEE333_zps06dc2ac8.jpg" width="200" /></a><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-tbSCdCuahn4/XtliWs_ZR0I/AAAAAAAACrI/myQ6413ZCeMM1Tk1FK1fsabkfy0Pch0cwCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/CD5A1EBB-31C9-4886-8C64-C705E7C0140A-3741-0000041DB1052C14_zpse744ebc2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1195" data-original-width="1600" height="149" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-tbSCdCuahn4/XtliWs_ZR0I/AAAAAAAACrI/myQ6413ZCeMM1Tk1FK1fsabkfy0Pch0cwCLcBGAsYHQ/s200/CD5A1EBB-31C9-4886-8C64-C705E7C0140A-3741-0000041DB1052C14_zpse744ebc2.jpg" width="200" /></a></div>
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(the key is at 8 like on Capcom Classic; pin 26, 27, and 28 on parts side is GND, but on solder side it's only 27 and 28). However the game came with a JAMMA adaptor that made it boot, so I just started by using that.</div>
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Just as described, that game booted up just fine</div>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-PVnB8ELxtg0/XtlimjKu8vI/AAAAAAAACrU/VzNmP9fobFA_8NEl23Mj9kzmCvmTddQ_gCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/B16B122F-2536-489E-9B5D-C2EDC8FD67C3-3268-000003C707E46EA2_zps77d28965.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="764" data-original-width="1023" height="148" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-PVnB8ELxtg0/XtlimjKu8vI/AAAAAAAACrU/VzNmP9fobFA_8NEl23Mj9kzmCvmTddQ_gCLcBGAsYHQ/s200/B16B122F-2536-489E-9B5D-C2EDC8FD67C3-3268-000003C707E46EA2_zps77d28965.jpg" width="200" /></a><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Ht7oibpt5SY/XtlitOKMjzI/AAAAAAAACrY/Hm4-ti3ldVwr2XREYmXIcg-23YqG2oITACLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/76B980AB-7A88-4320-9F44-CC38991245A8-3268-000003C7220C12AD_zps223b5532.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="764" data-original-width="1023" height="148" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Ht7oibpt5SY/XtlitOKMjzI/AAAAAAAACrY/Hm4-ti3ldVwr2XREYmXIcg-23YqG2oITACLcBGAsYHQ/s200/76B980AB-7A88-4320-9F44-CC38991245A8-3268-000003C7220C12AD_zps223b5532.jpg" width="200" /></a></div>
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and also coined up</div>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-iwtoOdRuWXg/XtljE5NwNHI/AAAAAAAACrk/DiIwYiha6W4xSTYuABAhQyc6xXG0FfIjgCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/CF681DBF-5A0D-4AF8-877B-94DD47875B54-3268-000003C736D3FFE9_zps3cbb02db.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="764" data-original-width="1023" height="476" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-iwtoOdRuWXg/XtljE5NwNHI/AAAAAAAACrk/DiIwYiha6W4xSTYuABAhQyc6xXG0FfIjgCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/CF681DBF-5A0D-4AF8-877B-94DD47875B54-3268-000003C736D3FFE9_zps3cbb02db.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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But when pressing start I got this screen</div>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-rqwj8kR__Zk/XtljTae4Z4I/AAAAAAAACro/kf49nc1dWI0Lw4vOGOAla1JaOptnEKcVgCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/B937FC8C-8FD7-4BC9-9414-CDA4D9B8D41C-3268-000003C7429A66A6_zps0378379f.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="764" data-original-width="1023" height="476" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-rqwj8kR__Zk/XtljTae4Z4I/AAAAAAAACro/kf49nc1dWI0Lw4vOGOAla1JaOptnEKcVgCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/B937FC8C-8FD7-4BC9-9414-CDA4D9B8D41C-3268-000003C7429A66A6_zps0378379f.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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for a second or two before the game rebooted (the watchdog jumped up bit the main Z80 in the butt };-P). The same thing also happend when the game ran in attract mode and was to show the in-game sequence.</div>
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So I started with the basics: Visual inspection, dumping ROMs and reseating all socketed ICs. During this, I quickly found this area interesting</div>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-hFd2IRxY2vg/Xtljirr9rlI/AAAAAAAACrw/IPh-uebYX9YCENwpc2G6XANHzX7QA_xKwCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/2C7DBF2E-4851-4100-9EAA-463B2674DCEE-3268-000003C76530EBB5_zpsf09fddd9.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="764" data-original-width="1023" height="476" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-hFd2IRxY2vg/Xtljirr9rlI/AAAAAAAACrw/IPh-uebYX9YCENwpc2G6XANHzX7QA_xKwCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/2C7DBF2E-4851-4100-9EAA-463B2674DCEE-3268-000003C76530EBB5_zpsf09fddd9.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Somethig didn't look right; ROMs no 3 and 4 facing one way, while 5 was facing the other. When I pulled no 5, it was obvious by looking at the circuit lines, that it had been inserted the wrong way. Often this causes the ROM to get fried, as they are very sensitive to getting polarity reversed. So I turned it around, crossed my fingers, and got this</div>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-P6uKQk6HRkE/XtljvMqiqMI/AAAAAAAACr4/x2su3EMplTsUdqiswt93ZawPKeAuIVEFQCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/792AD9DC-A56D-4A1E-86DE-F75EC96F7D75-3268-000003C853B8E33D_zps191cdfe8.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="764" data-original-width="1023" height="476" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-P6uKQk6HRkE/XtljvMqiqMI/AAAAAAAACr4/x2su3EMplTsUdqiswt93ZawPKeAuIVEFQCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/792AD9DC-A56D-4A1E-86DE-F75EC96F7D75-3268-000003C853B8E33D_zps191cdfe8.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Even though the screen look garbled, this was the intro sequence for sure, and after that the actual game also ran...SWEET! };-P (no sound though).</div>
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I was finish with basics on the main board, so turned to the graphics board. Here I found this</div>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-R_QHXMFkiGE/XtlkAjd7toI/AAAAAAAACsE/HuZIiK27JSAb132bqduRmADKJ77qrr-kwCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/1148456B-96D2-47ED-94B8-7F389153721A-3268-000003C86E4D05BB_zpsd759e53d.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="764" data-original-width="1023" height="476" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-R_QHXMFkiGE/XtlkAjd7toI/AAAAAAAACsE/HuZIiK27JSAb132bqduRmADKJ77qrr-kwCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/1148456B-96D2-47ED-94B8-7F389153721A-3268-000003C86E4D05BB_zpsd759e53d.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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This didn't seem right either. In the first row we have 7, 6, 8, 9 and in the second row 10, 11, 12, 13... Well I'll be damned, if that first row shouldn't read 6, 7, 8, 9 instead. So I tried switching the two</div>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-br1OVOvUbSo/XtlkMpJ2BUI/AAAAAAAACsI/2hzsyNkUP4YddRkjBaUd0-OjczRBFA5LACLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/E033C4C1-256A-459E-892F-A0BDBBA4EB16-3268-000003C87D5196A6_zpsc3e881fa.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="764" data-original-width="1023" height="476" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-br1OVOvUbSo/XtlkMpJ2BUI/AAAAAAAACsI/2hzsyNkUP4YddRkjBaUd0-OjczRBFA5LACLcBGAsYHQ/s640/E033C4C1-256A-459E-892F-A0BDBBA4EB16-3268-000003C87D5196A6_zpsc3e881fa.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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and now had a garble-free intro sequence</div>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-bRGtikPaQ9E/XtlkZURCDTI/AAAAAAAACsQ/GvXZ6W00aMkCXnPg13bmcuZPeAK33elbgCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/FC3B947C-56D7-451A-9A51-9151942EE5E7-3268-000003C89E5FC7C6_zps43ed5845.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="764" data-original-width="1023" height="148" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-bRGtikPaQ9E/XtlkZURCDTI/AAAAAAAACsQ/GvXZ6W00aMkCXnPg13bmcuZPeAK33elbgCLcBGAsYHQ/s200/FC3B947C-56D7-451A-9A51-9151942EE5E7-3268-000003C89E5FC7C6_zps43ed5845.jpg" width="200" /></a><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-n4OYQ75cmfA/XtlkeJqxUhI/AAAAAAAACsY/oxwFj9mfkdkleO6-VkXHtIk1jIwrWVxUACLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/BB67594C-8599-47A2-8566-BA25507C29E8-3268-000003C8AD836D31_zps197278ec.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="764" data-original-width="1023" height="148" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-n4OYQ75cmfA/XtlkeJqxUhI/AAAAAAAACsY/oxwFj9mfkdkleO6-VkXHtIk1jIwrWVxUACLcBGAsYHQ/s200/BB67594C-8599-47A2-8566-BA25507C29E8-3268-000003C8AD836D31_zps197278ec.jpg" width="200" /></a></div>
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The game itself played fine, but the cowboy was only able to shoot forward and left. A quick look at the adaptor, and I saw, that only two buttons were wired on the JAMMA fingerboard. Now I couldn't find that strange pinout anywhere on the net, so I just tried poking a grounded wire at the different unused pins. And on pin 20 on the parts side</div>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-jbJIM45x_eE/Xtlkq2GCtII/AAAAAAAACsg/oE5Ekh3WZQE5OqgjFFjgXdueDsdrSuA0QCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/2A629947-BEBF-4515-983C-A074E90F48D0-3268-000003CC98BBCA4A_zpsa983710e.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="764" data-original-width="1023" height="476" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-jbJIM45x_eE/Xtlkq2GCtII/AAAAAAAACsg/oE5Ekh3WZQE5OqgjFFjgXdueDsdrSuA0QCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/2A629947-BEBF-4515-983C-A074E90F48D0-3268-000003CC98BBCA4A_zpsa983710e.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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I hit the jackpot</div>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-tRaOqh_fuwg/Xtlk4CWEMRI/AAAAAAAACso/RqcbrOz_bW0zTqmtIGrf14DVoo6fN-SYQCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/0230F13D-A4E5-4737-AC82-D6BDB9851F99-3268-000003CC66CCD469_zps85849b9a.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="764" data-original-width="1023" height="476" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-tRaOqh_fuwg/Xtlk4CWEMRI/AAAAAAAACso/RqcbrOz_bW0zTqmtIGrf14DVoo6fN-SYQCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/0230F13D-A4E5-4737-AC82-D6BDB9851F99-3268-000003CC66CCD469_zps85849b9a.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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So soldered an extra wire (the white'n'red one) on the adaptor</div>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-uWE7IfydU-k/XtllHx4IfBI/AAAAAAAACs0/S87R1vunTEwuFJ5Bf6YPWHS1vvIz6iy8ACLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/7B485C23-8678-49F7-97F8-C6DF15D03F85-3268-000003CCAD09771B_zpsfa1d04e9.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="764" data-original-width="1023" height="476" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-uWE7IfydU-k/XtllHx4IfBI/AAAAAAAACs0/S87R1vunTEwuFJ5Bf6YPWHS1vvIz6iy8ACLcBGAsYHQ/s640/7B485C23-8678-49F7-97F8-C6DF15D03F85-3268-000003CCAD09771B_zpsfa1d04e9.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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The last thing I needed for this to be perfect, was sound. There was already wires from two pins on the edge connector to SPEAKER + and - on the fingerboard. So from previous repairs, I know that it's smart to try and switch the wires (when working with a SuperGun and not a cab with a speaker) before trying anything else. And because we have an adaptor in play, luckily that's quite easy. And, PRESTO! the sweet sound of gunfire filled the room };-P</div>
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The game now plays perfectly, and I ended up with a pinout looking like this</div>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-SQ4OdOXF2rY/XtllSungXvI/AAAAAAAACs4/WNjw9re60lYPQ3p5LT_KPY3Ae02y396qQCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/GunSmokeBootlegPinout_zpsea5266a7.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="403" data-original-width="527" height="488" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-SQ4OdOXF2rY/XtllSungXvI/AAAAAAAACs4/WNjw9re60lYPQ3p5LT_KPY3Ae02y396qQCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/GunSmokeBootlegPinout_zpsea5266a7.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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If anyone out there has more info on this pinout, don't hesitate to leave a comment };-P</div>
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Elgenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09955625580194567794noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4064555688737648169.post-50850039805248029122013-02-13T12:59:00.000+01:002020-06-15T21:41:06.894+02:00Taito Super QIX Bootleg Repair Log<div style="text-align: right;">
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Now this little bootleg of Taitos Super QIX had graphics issues. All the sprites had stripes through them; the same with some of the letters on the attract screen (maby they are made up of sprites too?!)</div>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-MSvVJbQvmgo/Xtvu-3ahRtI/AAAAAAAACtU/y-NaDwFH4k0bqQZUKlEYumWfzIckvPOKQCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/8914F9A0-C487-4DAA-B5EE-17A6E91463A1-10103-0000076080D77D22_zps11364184.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="764" data-original-width="1023" height="148" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-MSvVJbQvmgo/Xtvu-3ahRtI/AAAAAAAACtU/y-NaDwFH4k0bqQZUKlEYumWfzIckvPOKQCLcBGAsYHQ/s200/8914F9A0-C487-4DAA-B5EE-17A6E91463A1-10103-0000076080D77D22_zps11364184.jpg" width="200" /></a><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-iYxA_njahLg/XtvvQ_qIf6I/AAAAAAAACtc/eBLjXGCQZiM2ue-Cav4Shb986e1qWwxLQCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/CB444D3D-859F-4415-9385-6AF7A24E5390-10103-0000076092D3A84B_zps28872a2a.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="764" data-original-width="1023" height="148" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-iYxA_njahLg/XtvvQ_qIf6I/AAAAAAAACtc/eBLjXGCQZiM2ue-Cav4Shb986e1qWwxLQCLcBGAsYHQ/s200/CB444D3D-859F-4415-9385-6AF7A24E5390-10103-0000076092D3A84B_zps28872a2a.jpg" width="200" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Bq8skq9OpQo/Xtvvw2JknRI/AAAAAAAACtk/PHbSRsEOSWQNkX_6MNTmNPmREQg4U8ujgCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/0FD3E892-76B7-4A30-9EDF-2BFB9685C577-10103-000007609DDC0500_zps8795b454.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="764" data-original-width="1023" height="148" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Bq8skq9OpQo/Xtvvw2JknRI/AAAAAAAACtk/PHbSRsEOSWQNkX_6MNTmNPmREQg4U8ujgCLcBGAsYHQ/s200/0FD3E892-76B7-4A30-9EDF-2BFB9685C577-10103-000007609DDC0500_zps8795b454.jpg" width="200" /></a><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-XcLX4EsAg_4/Xtvv0mACP3I/AAAAAAAACto/hmexg59esHY8bmkyDbq1xV-ibew_KJaEgCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/4E23B48A-39D7-48CB-A10C-8D58654B8C1B-10103-0000076052F1859A_zps0e45cf07.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="764" data-original-width="1023" height="148" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-XcLX4EsAg_4/Xtvv0mACP3I/AAAAAAAACto/hmexg59esHY8bmkyDbq1xV-ibew_KJaEgCLcBGAsYHQ/s200/4E23B48A-39D7-48CB-A10C-8D58654B8C1B-10103-0000076052F1859A_zps0e45cf07.jpg" width="200" /></a></div>
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I started with the basics. Visual inspection, reseating ROMs...however when putting this 2732 back in place, I just got a solid blue screen<br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-sOhm9WJvLgo/XtvwcA-KhiI/AAAAAAAACt0/-Yh5fi3p8QEcr_H6YX_NEOoIjEBS0lCXQCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/2D46FBCB-BCFC-420C-A635-0E45D2D98E4B-10103-000007618BEB0D21_zps02af43cd.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="764" data-original-width="1023" height="476" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-sOhm9WJvLgo/XtvwcA-KhiI/AAAAAAAACt0/-Yh5fi3p8QEcr_H6YX_NEOoIjEBS0lCXQCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/2D46FBCB-BCFC-420C-A635-0E45D2D98E4B-10103-000007618BEB0D21_zps02af43cd.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Tried popping out the ROM again. It was then I discovered, that the dumbass that had fitted the socket, had reversed it (notice, that GND and not Vcc goes to the upper right pin of the socket)!<br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-2GdkKYvfAVM/XtvwucuNLNI/AAAAAAAACt8/f0qNM13d-2MU_56ViTcONIQuV7g_7A5vQCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/80163945-BDF8-4924-93B6-D71882323C19-10103-000007619601CB90_zps611e81b7.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="764" data-original-width="1023" height="476" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-2GdkKYvfAVM/XtvwucuNLNI/AAAAAAAACt8/f0qNM13d-2MU_56ViTcONIQuV7g_7A5vQCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/80163945-BDF8-4924-93B6-D71882323C19-10103-000007619601CB90_zps611e81b7.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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The result was, as I feared, that the ROM was now fried. When trying to read it in the Top2005+, I got a "No chip inserted!" error. Ofcause I had <a href="http://hotnerdgirl.files.wordpress.com/2011/02/picard-facepalm.jpg" target="_blank">forgotten</a> to dump the ROM before I reinserted it and flipped the switch, so basicly, if I couldn't find the right image somewhere, I was frakked. So I went hunting the net for ROM sets. By googling a bit, I realized that my board was a special bootleg using a MCU with external ROM; the other ones have an MCU with inernal ROM. So the image I was after was called sq07.108. This image exsists in (at least) 3 version floating around the net. Tried burning one of them, but my Top2005+ would not burn 2732's with Vpp=21V. So I tried programming some 2764's with doubled image, and then afterwards moved some pins around to make it fit the 2732 pinout. None of them worked!<br />
I was then so tired of the board, that I sentenced it to the scrap pile!<br />
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Months went by with other reps, but everytime I had my hands on the board while going through the pile, I thought of how sad it was to scrap such a nice board. So a couple of weeks ago I pardoned it. It had suffered a little bit durings its stay in the pile; the volume pot had been harvested for a rep (that I gave up on, as the game was TOO damaged, and was a football game). Besides that, it looked just fine.<br />
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Now I was pretty sure, that all the ROM sets I'd found wouldn't work, as it was the wrong images for my game. So I sent out a cry for help by posting threads, on different rep forums I usally visit, asking if anyone had a bootleg similar to mine.<br />
Mainwhile I also had the thought, that maby the board (for some reason) would only work with a true 2732, and not a modified 2764. A couple of months earlier I had been so lucky, that an old friend (Jarl) had decided to donate me his old ISA BUS based <a href="http://elgensrepairs.blogspot.dk/2012/08/scope-dead-but-new-old-one-acquired.html" target="_blank">EPROM programmer</a> that actually IS capable of programming EPROMs with Vpp=21V. So tried one of the three images I had<br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-6qYbjymAwas/Xtvw-rShZtI/AAAAAAAACuE/4MLPJ3n0suEl9yVXqd1sq3QpNvok6-g3QCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/CDF1DBD8-C547-48CA-9183-0FDF248DA3A2-10103-0000075FF102295D_zpsf988e22c.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="764" data-original-width="1023" height="148" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-6qYbjymAwas/Xtvw-rShZtI/AAAAAAAACuE/4MLPJ3n0suEl9yVXqd1sq3QpNvok6-g3QCLcBGAsYHQ/s200/CDF1DBD8-C547-48CA-9183-0FDF248DA3A2-10103-0000075FF102295D_zpsf988e22c.jpg" width="200" /></a><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-YDpJqEPjnQY/XtvxDKys2OI/AAAAAAAACuI/kISsv32Bzcc_kPgQDfZ4VuImVDWYacRRgCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/2E08B79D-7321-4D17-B027-2468B31D9AC3-4695-0000036676D1AD25_zpse3a61371.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="764" data-original-width="1023" height="148" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-YDpJqEPjnQY/XtvxDKys2OI/AAAAAAAACuI/kISsv32Bzcc_kPgQDfZ4VuImVDWYacRRgCLcBGAsYHQ/s200/2E08B79D-7321-4D17-B027-2468B31D9AC3-4695-0000036676D1AD25_zpse3a61371.jpg" width="200" /></a></div>
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With this EPROM the board booted up the self test and passed all tests and then went all black screen when the game should start. Now that was certainly a change for the better };-P So erased the EPROM again and tried one of the other images, and BINGO! I was back at square-one with a game that had sprite errors; Totally awesome!<br />
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Now sprite errors like these are often caused by bad RAM, so started poking the data pins on the different RAMs on the board. This board uses 4bit DRAM for sprites and backgrounds and they work in pairs to make up a whole byte. I had never encountered a board using DRAM before, so I was not too sure what to look for, as DRAM also has this thing about refresh. However, when poking this little fellow<br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-_bF9YncvMyM/XtvxWbEiOQI/AAAAAAAACuU/apb4enDNvhk6Oi5BalKJnuvbV2hajAG1QCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/69801BA4-4B3F-4427-BA37-56F1AFECEA35-10103-0000076035908970_zpsd8e69037.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="764" data-original-width="1023" height="476" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-_bF9YncvMyM/XtvxWbEiOQI/AAAAAAAACuU/apb4enDNvhk6Oi5BalKJnuvbV2hajAG1QCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/69801BA4-4B3F-4427-BA37-56F1AFECEA35-10103-0000076035908970_zpsd8e69037.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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I saw something that didn't look at all healthy; refresh or not<br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-vbgK7rD6gU0/XtvxuQpHTiI/AAAAAAAACug/RwTHokax5Y0VZVpCpHGIcN8rxTiM6yRmACLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/84FB5781-1BB4-4EB4-9339-736833734928-10103-0000076005D211CA_zpscc6bbc34.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="764" data-original-width="1023" height="476" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-vbgK7rD6gU0/XtvxuQpHTiI/AAAAAAAACug/RwTHokax5Y0VZVpCpHGIcN8rxTiM6yRmACLcBGAsYHQ/s640/84FB5781-1BB4-4EB4-9339-736833734928-10103-0000076005D211CA_zpscc6bbc34.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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And when looking at its partner<br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ISJLbj1nxA4/Xtvx88hg0XI/AAAAAAAACuo/qKXcIAyjb14HOzmT99pNPeOPtg5Iq6hiwCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/E1F60B6A-847E-43EB-9C73-F19ED75DA471-10103-0000076020E51984_zps6f210afd.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="764" data-original-width="1023" height="476" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ISJLbj1nxA4/Xtvx88hg0XI/AAAAAAAACuo/qKXcIAyjb14HOzmT99pNPeOPtg5Iq6hiwCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/E1F60B6A-847E-43EB-9C73-F19ED75DA471-10103-0000076020E51984_zps6f210afd.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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with this dataline</div>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-YxoU6X_H_jY/XtvySPP3QWI/AAAAAAAACu0/lMxs0A45I6UWk9_LHk-nZulO6_CreH4fQCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/C924E8A2-1328-4399-B622-C4B04594B9F4-10103-00000760140927F1_zps73f41194.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="764" data-original-width="1023" height="476" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-YxoU6X_H_jY/XtvySPP3QWI/AAAAAAAACu0/lMxs0A45I6UWk9_LHk-nZulO6_CreH4fQCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/C924E8A2-1328-4399-B622-C4B04594B9F4-10103-00000760140927F1_zps73f41194.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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I was convinced, that something was very wrong with the other DRAM! However, as my Top2005+ only tests SRAM, I had no means of testing it. So I decided on desoldering both ICs in the pair and fit sockets.</div>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-vniS8TM7PFA/XtvygRwEmoI/AAAAAAAACu4/OMf1dAH6x58iB-EzOfFBliTdONMXJNpowCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/F3EC89BB-F252-45D1-9B11-2FB3B2D767B1-10103-00000760ABD32AEF_zps43ca6d2c.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="764" data-original-width="1023" height="476" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-vniS8TM7PFA/XtvygRwEmoI/AAAAAAAACu4/OMf1dAH6x58iB-EzOfFBliTdONMXJNpowCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/F3EC89BB-F252-45D1-9B11-2FB3B2D767B1-10103-00000760ABD32AEF_zps43ca6d2c.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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By trying diffenrent combinations of inserting 1 or 2 ICs in the different sockets, I was pretty sure, that the one with the fainted text was knackered. I went through he scrap pile, but didn't find any 41464...however I found this old PC mother board with alot of these 41256s</div>
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Now while 41464 are 4bit DRAMs, the 41256s are only 1bit...let's try and look at the math: 1 x 4bits = 4bits = 4 x 1bits; AHA! (this is the sound of Elgen getting one of his <a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yOEe1uzurKo" target="_blank">crazy ideas</a>) Why not try stacking 4 of those 1bit DRAMS? };-P So harvested 4 of them and started preparing them. I found the pinouts <a href="http://upgrade.kongju.ac.kr/data/memory/index.html" target="_blank">here</a> (here is a screen shot from my iPhone)<br />
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The 41256 has separate D and Q, so they would have to be connected<br />
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Next we stack'em and connect all the address and control pins<br />
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Now as seen on the pinsouts above, the placement of the addresspins are not compatible, so I prepared an old socket with solder blobs<br />
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and soldered the pins that where in the right place on; then routed the other pins using kynar; the only pins not present on the 41256's was the /OE (output enable), so I just left it unconnected<br />
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And now...the big test! };-P (Ooooh, so excited, I almost wet my pants)<br />
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AND IT FRAKKING WORKED!!! };-P<br />
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Even though it worked, I did order some real 41464's on evilBay, as the MacGyver construction is not very durable };-D But it was great fun trying and it was cool to see that only the one DRAM was dead.<br />
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Next problem to address was no sound. So started by refitting the volume pot, but still no sound. The output of the amp<br />
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looked fine though<br />
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But I traced the signal to the SPEAKER- pin at the edge connector; hmm precisely the same 'problem' as with this <a href="http://elgensrepairs.blogspot.dk/2013/01/sega-wonder-boy-iii-monster-lair-bootleg.html" target="_blank">board</a>; maby it's time to add a switch on the SuperGun? But I decided to switch the signals onboard this time again<br />
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and the sound was now perfect.<br />
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Yesterday the real 41464's arrived from the US<br />
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and the board still works fine with one of them<br />
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Case closed! };-P<br />
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Addendum: My cry for help on the different forums payed off! I got a pm from member Belike on <a href="http://www.dragonslairfans.com/smfor/index.php" target="_blank">Dragon's Lair Fans</a>, that he had an untested bootleg SuperQIX (also with an MCU with external ROM) that he didn't mind parting with for small money. A couple of days ago it arrived. I haven't had time to test it, as the pinout is not JAMMA, but I did desolder and dump the ROM, and it has precisely the same CRC32 as the one from MAME I'm using in my own SuperQIX right now };-P</div>
Elgenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09955625580194567794noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4064555688737648169.post-58518454590622712012013-01-30T20:27:00.001+01:002020-06-15T21:40:36.489+02:00Capcom 1942 Bootleg Repair Log<div style="text-align: right;">
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I got this board about two weeks ago when I traded an original 1942 for 4 defective bootlegs and some cash. I was told that the game was ok, but had problems with the controller inputs. When I got it, it looked like this</div>
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I'm pretty sure that there exsists a very special and particularly gruesome place in Hell for people who solder their adaptor wires directly onto the PCBs connector };-S It is just so cumbersome to remove them again... But after about 30min of hard labour, a good 20cm of solder wig, and a light scrub with rubbing alcohol and toothbrush,<br />
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I had a result I was pretty satisfied with.<br />
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Now, as this board has a 44pins pinout, it couldn't be Capcom Classic (like the original) for sure, so I grapped a 44 pin edge connector and a JAMMA fingerboard from the pile, and went hunting the net for the pinout. And at <a href="http://www.mikesarcade.com/cgi-bin/spies.cgi?action=url&type=pinout&page=my1942.txt" target="_blank">mikesarcade.com</a> I found something that looked like it was the right one (notice the 5 consecutive GND-pins in both the pinout over at mike's and on the pic of the component side above). Even though I was about 99% sure it was the correct pinout, I built the adaptor in steps with supply + video, sound, and then controls, with testing in between each step. However after I added the controls, the sound was gone.<br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-do13POZeUck/Xtv5l6oI5bI/AAAAAAAACxo/WyhBErjMWdE1l_bRDpRkWwVYRbFtV24BACLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/E57C985D-433D-40C5-9E1F-14C7557B0722-3724-0000032C8EC8E49D.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="764" data-original-width="1023" height="476" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-do13POZeUck/Xtv5l6oI5bI/AAAAAAAACxo/WyhBErjMWdE1l_bRDpRkWwVYRbFtV24BACLcBGAsYHQ/s640/E57C985D-433D-40C5-9E1F-14C7557B0722-3724-0000032C8EC8E49D.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Hmmm, checked all the connections again and tried to wiggle the board i bit while it was running. I managed to get sound momentarily. Okay, so my adaptor was fine...the board had just developed a sound issue while I was fiddling with it.<br />
Now on to the controls, that I've been told was screwed. First thing I noticed was, that the game started right after I hit the coin button. Next the plane used up all the rolls, then flew to the top of the screen shooting constantly.<br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-hrwTuZrLYlo/Xtv5zkZ0YDI/AAAAAAAACxs/m95cRaHpWB0CZhJlsMbinaYXB3Nf0BW4gCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/6D2938D5-628B-471F-975D-8C98CF62EBEC-3724-0000032CB1210DAF.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="764" data-original-width="1023" height="148" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-hrwTuZrLYlo/Xtv5zkZ0YDI/AAAAAAAACxs/m95cRaHpWB0CZhJlsMbinaYXB3Nf0BW4gCLcBGAsYHQ/s200/6D2938D5-628B-471F-975D-8C98CF62EBEC-3724-0000032CB1210DAF.jpg" width="200" /></a><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-kJee6fzj2W8/Xtv54mU3-wI/AAAAAAAACx0/GWxxITsXkeMhd_SPHNJH23zt6SXugAsvACLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/D1633B6C-DCEE-4671-B34F-2457997D7DDE-3724-0000032C9D10C308.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="764" data-original-width="1023" height="148" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-kJee6fzj2W8/Xtv54mU3-wI/AAAAAAAACx0/GWxxITsXkeMhd_SPHNJH23zt6SXugAsvACLcBGAsYHQ/s200/D1633B6C-DCEE-4671-B34F-2457997D7DDE-3724-0000032C9D10C308.jpg" width="200" /></a></div>
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The only control function responding, was left on the joystick. I started with the start button. First I found it at the edge connector, and a continuity tester confirmed, that it was tied low. Luckily I was able to trace it backward using only my naked eye. First thing it met, was this array of pull-ups.<br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-H9WnAJrX4YE/Xtv6MtAI8_I/AAAAAAAACyA/q6fGwrnwWC4xbiZKHlZQzmFA51r4twFXwCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/B2347883-F93D-41EB-8C99-6C9A7F873A93-3724-0000032CBD0C7219.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="764" data-original-width="1023" height="476" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-H9WnAJrX4YE/Xtv6MtAI8_I/AAAAAAAACyA/q6fGwrnwWC4xbiZKHlZQzmFA51r4twFXwCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/B2347883-F93D-41EB-8C99-6C9A7F873A93-3724-0000032CBD0C7219.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Now the first resistor in the array seemed to pull up fine<br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-N4-e3uO72s0/Xtv6ccf6hQI/AAAAAAAACyI/FXboJEASo0UBOTzhEg1sFmA7e8deZ9KKwCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/C44D9537-36E3-4D9C-BEDC-D192181B5342-3724-0000032CC92ED077.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="764" data-original-width="1023" height="476" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-N4-e3uO72s0/Xtv6ccf6hQI/AAAAAAAACyI/FXboJEASo0UBOTzhEg1sFmA7e8deZ9KKwCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/C44D9537-36E3-4D9C-BEDC-D192181B5342-3724-0000032CC92ED077.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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But the next couple of them<br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-953RFCvfiAw/Xtv6o1as5fI/AAAAAAAACyM/E8t5eGuicOg45SI-8ELdjGSKF6tEsmNCACLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/F988C1A8-9694-46A2-A321-5FC69DB7341F-3724-0000032CD2D5162D.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="764" data-original-width="1023" height="476" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-953RFCvfiAw/Xtv6o1as5fI/AAAAAAAACyM/E8t5eGuicOg45SI-8ELdjGSKF6tEsmNCACLcBGAsYHQ/s640/F988C1A8-9694-46A2-A321-5FC69DB7341F-3724-0000032CD2D5162D.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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was tied low.<br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-2WFUYtuSNWg/Xtv6z0ad97I/AAAAAAAACyU/mCcUUjyjvGQSk_EX4cupWs1ltRll6cFqACLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/D3A99203-E381-43D9-B4D9-CC82F0A4F72C-3724-0000032CDE9012E3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="764" data-original-width="1023" height="476" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-2WFUYtuSNWg/Xtv6z0ad97I/AAAAAAAACyU/mCcUUjyjvGQSk_EX4cupWs1ltRll6cFqACLcBGAsYHQ/s640/D3A99203-E381-43D9-B4D9-CC82F0A4F72C-3724-0000032CDE9012E3.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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However after desoldering, the array seemed just fine, when tested with the Ohm-meter<br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-DIOAE1eunLM/Xtv7BLV-YCI/AAAAAAAACyc/4p6lPHSXI5MXsO93OavvzGvQ6k1NDOqIQCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/1E640C8D-FC8E-4F61-BA6F-2EED92537324-3724-0000032CE71818C2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="764" data-original-width="1023" height="476" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-DIOAE1eunLM/Xtv7BLV-YCI/AAAAAAAACyc/4p6lPHSXI5MXsO93OavvzGvQ6k1NDOqIQCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/1E640C8D-FC8E-4F61-BA6F-2EED92537324-3724-0000032CE71818C2.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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And (not all the surprised) I found that the pins were still tied low on the board.<br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-dJTOdb0CvbM/Xtv7OZWd4pI/AAAAAAAACyk/-5on3mYXYYEX7e_MP6zzJA9-ybmJtWPaACLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/C17CBEE5-CAF7-4875-82C0-853FF4C2B577-3724-0000032CF18A8553.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="764" data-original-width="1023" height="476" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-dJTOdb0CvbM/Xtv7OZWd4pI/AAAAAAAACyk/-5on3mYXYYEX7e_MP6zzJA9-ybmJtWPaACLcBGAsYHQ/s640/C17CBEE5-CAF7-4875-82C0-853FF4C2B577-3724-0000032CF18A8553.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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So the array was going to be soldered back on the board, and I went looking upstream. The next thing the line met, was the 367 just below in the picture above, so out it went<br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-6wVL47_ZTf8/Xtv7e04RBdI/AAAAAAAACyw/XFeENoJXPcgBIS9dQoT1zgODH0w5ghMLgCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/067772E6-6EC6-4E8C-9B30-1BD20EEFC980-3724-0000032CFB811005.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="764" data-original-width="1023" height="476" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-6wVL47_ZTf8/Xtv7e04RBdI/AAAAAAAACyw/XFeENoJXPcgBIS9dQoT1zgODH0w5ghMLgCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/067772E6-6EC6-4E8C-9B30-1BD20EEFC980-3724-0000032CFB811005.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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And BINGO, it tested <a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dsUXAEzaC3Q" target="_blank">Bad!!!</a> in the Top };-P<br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-6nCqDAbnNPM/Xtv7tPnVxHI/AAAAAAAACy0/DAMU4kM4Alg32NAWIrJs0Y6_QfxozkeCwCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/DB254A26-53C0-4C1C-A241-A35B6F727EF1-3724-0000032D04505C6D.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="764" data-original-width="1023" height="476" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-6nCqDAbnNPM/Xtv7tPnVxHI/AAAAAAAACy0/DAMU4kM4Alg32NAWIrJs0Y6_QfxozkeCwCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/DB254A26-53C0-4C1C-A241-A35B6F727EF1-3724-0000032D04505C6D.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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So fitted a socket and found a good 367 from a scrap board.<br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-4xrM8JIKH9A/Xtv77XNLdkI/AAAAAAAACy8/PZ1y01p5scQX6N8qJiZS-eokBeGqTeroACLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/138CD609-6592-437F-964A-FB60178DA562-3724-0000032DA97F7046.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="764" data-original-width="1023" height="476" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-4xrM8JIKH9A/Xtv77XNLdkI/AAAAAAAACy8/PZ1y01p5scQX6N8qJiZS-eokBeGqTeroACLcBGAsYHQ/s640/138CD609-6592-437F-964A-FB60178DA562-3724-0000032DA97F7046.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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But when I then powered up the board, all I got was this screen of garble. WTF!!! };-S<br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-7iPAnVRwfEE/Xtv8eLUQxbI/AAAAAAAACzI/saAtL8VUc3cvtvUWS3Xuu-Uzf9P1ccf5wCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/48D8482D-C76A-4032-8806-FF051B055DE3-3724-0000032D346895B5.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="764" data-original-width="1023" height="476" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-7iPAnVRwfEE/Xtv8eLUQxbI/AAAAAAAACzI/saAtL8VUc3cvtvUWS3Xuu-Uzf9P1ccf5wCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/48D8482D-C76A-4032-8806-FF051B055DE3-3724-0000032D346895B5.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Tried turning power off and on a couple of times, and even tried putting the old 367 back, but still same-same... Well, back to basics: Did visual inspection of parts and solder side for both PCBs. Reseated all socketed ICs and dumped all ROMs<br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ubqvsUwnYeU/Xtv8szYyJvI/AAAAAAAACzM/oN9kZzjgpvEwDdQfXvmrjMDOgN8m0eW3wCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/C7D23F61-8BCA-4ED3-A72E-45428CDACC2D-3724-0000032D998CC8E7.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="764" data-original-width="1023" height="476" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ubqvsUwnYeU/Xtv8szYyJvI/AAAAAAAACzM/oN9kZzjgpvEwDdQfXvmrjMDOgN8m0eW3wCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/C7D23F61-8BCA-4ED3-A72E-45428CDACC2D-3724-0000032D998CC8E7.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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All seemed correct there as well. Desided to hit the sack and sleep on it, as I was pretty tired.<br />
When I got back to the board the next day, the first thing I noticed was this<br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-4_4iHR4nruA/Xtv84Ks66qI/AAAAAAAACzU/flSWk2S8obkRP-ZVvr6CRTJvMYjoerEnACLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/4C465E29-2613-4D13-A309-7EE30E4C84E9-5516-000004111BF475BD.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1195" data-original-width="1600" height="478" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-4_4iHR4nruA/Xtv84Ks66qI/AAAAAAAACzU/flSWk2S8obkRP-ZVvr6CRTJvMYjoerEnACLcBGAsYHQ/s640/4C465E29-2613-4D13-A309-7EE30E4C84E9-5516-000004111BF475BD.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Not all the dip switches on SW2 was fully off! I set them all off, and the game booted just like it had done before };-P After I had a look at the <a href="http://www.mikesarcade.com/cgi-bin/spies.cgi?action=url&type=dip&page=1942.txt" target="_blank">dip settings</a>, it was obvious, that switch 1 on SW2 must have been on causing the whole game to freeze. Well lesson learned: If something really stange suddenly happens to your board, check the dips first };-P<br />
Now, on with the REAL repair };-P The start button was now functional, so the game didn't start right upon being coined up anymore. However, the plane still used up all the rolls and flew to the top of the screen when starting the game. So traced the loop button back to a resistor array and a 367 just like with the start button. This time I started by desoldering the 367<br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-tJyMHfTlTyk/Xtv9HqseFnI/AAAAAAAACzg/P5dH-TitZMYWEvq6DkhV3uqkntuCc5HgQCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/12307A5D-6FE5-4E58-A792-BE4F397359E8-3724-0000032DC81D3E57.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="764" data-original-width="1023" height="476" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-tJyMHfTlTyk/Xtv9HqseFnI/AAAAAAAACzg/P5dH-TitZMYWEvq6DkhV3uqkntuCc5HgQCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/12307A5D-6FE5-4E58-A792-BE4F397359E8-3724-0000032DC81D3E57.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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and it tested as BAD!!! in the Top. So a socket and a new one from scrap was fitted<br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-0QjA65LdOBg/Xtv9egClofI/AAAAAAAACzo/_oLHALbfk6smVnSCDASYfKnwOGxYZt_wACLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/24A24FD9-72FF-45AC-AAAC-F72A9174EF5D-3724-0000032DD1F8D46C.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="764" data-original-width="1023" height="476" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-0QjA65LdOBg/Xtv9egClofI/AAAAAAAACzo/_oLHALbfk6smVnSCDASYfKnwOGxYZt_wACLcBGAsYHQ/s640/24A24FD9-72FF-45AC-AAAC-F72A9174EF5D-3724-0000032DD1F8D46C.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Now the game played perfectly, except for the missing sound, that is.<br />
Missing sound can be caused by many things, but I usually start by checking the amp. This can be done by maxing the volume-pot and running your finger over the pins of the amp. If you hear a hissing sound, the amp is not totally dead. Here, there was hissing. As I had just done a <a href="http://elgensrepairs.blogspot.dk/2013/01/sega-wonder-boy-iii-monster-lair-bootleg.html" target="_blank">Wonder Boy 3 Monster Lair Bootleg</a>, that uses the same amp, I had the pinout right at hand. So poked the input with the scope, and saw a total flatline. Next I found the pinout of the two <a href="http://map.grauw.nl/resources/sound/generalinstrument_ay-3-8910.pdf" target="_blank">AY-3-8910</a> sound chips, and had a look at the 6 outputs (3 each) with the scope; again dead silent. Then started checking the datapins sitting on the bus between the two sound chips and the sound CPU (a Z80, just like the main CPU). AHA! data pin 3 was always low.<br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-W433Ddq-foE/Xtv9rSgjRtI/AAAAAAAACzs/aPFtC5FJs4I00aZbJlS91ItvfRfrddO0gCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/D9DF3D7D-4B37-49B0-9BE4-A22EF76071C4-2706-000001D4A9730094.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="764" data-original-width="1023" height="476" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-W433Ddq-foE/Xtv9rSgjRtI/AAAAAAAACzs/aPFtC5FJs4I00aZbJlS91ItvfRfrddO0gCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/D9DF3D7D-4B37-49B0-9BE4-A22EF76071C4-2706-000001D4A9730094.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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I was pretty confident (maby because that had just been the case with the control lines), that whatever was pulling the line low, had to one of the ICs on the data bus. So first I removed the ROM; easy as it was already socketed. Still stuck low! Next I suspected these two 374s<br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Oa0faxLEyH0/Xtv933bgD8I/AAAAAAAACz0/roDci4A44QsX-ZPsuPIQZRj_qIoi9gEwwCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/196CA789-15C0-44F7-B070-3AB4E8B68451-2706-000001D4C9C4D646.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="764" data-original-width="1023" height="476" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Oa0faxLEyH0/Xtv933bgD8I/AAAAAAAACz0/roDci4A44QsX-ZPsuPIQZRj_qIoi9gEwwCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/196CA789-15C0-44F7-B070-3AB4E8B68451-2706-000001D4C9C4D646.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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So they was desoldered and sockets fitted. But they checked out fine in the Top and the line was still low.<br />
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In the maintime, I had found that the sound circuit is identical to the one on the original. So by inspecting the schematics (page 3) found at <a href="http://www.jammarcade.net/capcom-1942-schematics/" target="_blank">jammacade.net</a>, I could see, that the only ICs left on the bus, was the CPU, the RAM, and the 2 sound chips. Now, if the CPU was knackered, it had to be desoldered anyway; if not I could solder in a socket and have a great chance to try out my new toy, <a href="http://elgensrepairs.blogspot.dk/2012/12/retrofitting-usb-port-on-fluke9010a.html" target="_blank">The Fluke9010A</a> };-P So desoldered the CPU and fitted a socket instead.<br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-zUWqQqxNJrU/Xtv-3Ru6uAI/AAAAAAAAC0I/LpFBmrJUFpMPvq7LfBJQ6sSWkBVBhjRNgCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/1346C27D-FD51-4068-8F9E-DA030252AD0D-2706-000001D54659116F.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="764" data-original-width="1023" height="476" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-zUWqQqxNJrU/Xtv-3Ru6uAI/AAAAAAAAC0I/LpFBmrJUFpMPvq7LfBJQ6sSWkBVBhjRNgCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/1346C27D-FD51-4068-8F9E-DA030252AD0D-2706-000001D54659116F.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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And now....Fluke-time! (Ooooh, exciting!!! };-P)<br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-i0Mm_eynGyw/Xtv_HYAfPUI/AAAAAAAAC0Q/UrK9-erZ8n0xfwBZKmYsxkWAlKgHNaBOwCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/9C0A2F32-5EEA-43AD-AE90-22DACDD58CF0-2706-000001D56315EB0F.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="764" data-original-width="1023" height="476" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-i0Mm_eynGyw/Xtv_HYAfPUI/AAAAAAAAC0Q/UrK9-erZ8n0xfwBZKmYsxkWAlKgHNaBOwCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/9C0A2F32-5EEA-43AD-AE90-22DACDD58CF0-2706-000001D56315EB0F.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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The Fluke showed just what I'd discovered myself<br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-g0VvxCkVTZ4/Xtv_WGEuVFI/AAAAAAAAC0U/HLXgU2ZUpGUD9VQbqoarmmDAoTVNBpuwACLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/88262AF4-463E-4053-BCFD-16886FADF574-2706-000001D56E75DFC8.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="764" data-original-width="1023" height="476" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-g0VvxCkVTZ4/Xtv_WGEuVFI/AAAAAAAAC0U/HLXgU2ZUpGUD9VQbqoarmmDAoTVNBpuwACLcBGAsYHQ/s640/88262AF4-463E-4053-BCFD-16886FADF574-2706-000001D56E75DFC8.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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So the CPU was innocent. Ofcause, I was not able to do any of the other tests until I'd solved the problem with the stuck data line. The only things left on the bus was the RAM and sound chips. However, before desoldering any of them, I desided to visually inspect the circuit lines of the bus just one last time. Then I found this...<br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-FCaGZN9hc0Y/Xtv_jhVq3SI/AAAAAAAAC0c/MZtvEei_9O4S-bIBHofNQB0iOx_YQpH8wCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/Copy_zps1c42b753.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="764" data-original-width="1023" height="476" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-FCaGZN9hc0Y/Xtv_jhVq3SI/AAAAAAAAC0c/MZtvEei_9O4S-bIBHofNQB0iOx_YQpH8wCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/Copy_zps1c42b753.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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This grounded soldering was very close to the stuck line, and when looking through the magnifying glass, I could see that it had taken a little hit at some point. So I gently made a cut with a Stanley knife to separate the soldering from the line...<br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-wYp4ceVo5RQ/Xtv_1irelnI/AAAAAAAAC0o/DAHWRn-1N6st1bWCcWK0h78J1UbhXHTowCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/F00589FA-7D6A-45C9-BB1E-A765B9B61D22-2706-000001D59F7BB7DB.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="764" data-original-width="1023" height="476" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-wYp4ceVo5RQ/Xtv_1irelnI/AAAAAAAAC0o/DAHWRn-1N6st1bWCcWK0h78J1UbhXHTowCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/F00589FA-7D6A-45C9-BB1E-A765B9B61D22-2706-000001D59F7BB7DB.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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And when I booted the game, I had sound again, also with the CPU back in place. };-P<br />
But as I had the Fluke powered up, I did the BUS test<br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-wMCrP29rKU0/XtwAFSmRw9I/AAAAAAAAC0w/nuQOeAkDmtcGWDlRShJUKFawcvlrvbRYgCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/2C510713-328B-42F0-9BAC-9C288194AE3D-2706-000001D60593C247.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="764" data-original-width="1023" height="476" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-wMCrP29rKU0/XtwAFSmRw9I/AAAAAAAAC0w/nuQOeAkDmtcGWDlRShJUKFawcvlrvbRYgCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/2C510713-328B-42F0-9BAC-9C288194AE3D-2706-000001D60593C247.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Found the RAM-space via the MAME source<br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-px6aO92eqcA/XtwAPsxQrpI/AAAAAAAAC00/4wt_Fq-PltIVQIntIf9JkjYvnb_nPgjUgCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/91FC5B59-3C68-4EB7-BA13-DEDC672FD679-2706-000001D5CA875772.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="764" data-original-width="1023" height="238" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-px6aO92eqcA/XtwAPsxQrpI/AAAAAAAAC00/4wt_Fq-PltIVQIntIf9JkjYvnb_nPgjUgCLcBGAsYHQ/s320/91FC5B59-3C68-4EB7-BA13-DEDC672FD679-2706-000001D5CA875772.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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and did the two RAM tests (short and long...beware, the long one takes very long time)<br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-95wUC8IydOU/XtwAY5XOR3I/AAAAAAAAC08/sYZZ-yMmAFYWJwPd2bnQrlQQHGdw1ZNVwCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/52B0E3FC-5675-42B7-834A-A3F1A468B004-2706-000001D5F370AB74.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="764" data-original-width="1023" height="148" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-95wUC8IydOU/XtwAY5XOR3I/AAAAAAAAC08/sYZZ-yMmAFYWJwPd2bnQrlQQHGdw1ZNVwCLcBGAsYHQ/s200/52B0E3FC-5675-42B7-834A-A3F1A468B004-2706-000001D5F370AB74.jpg" width="200" /></a><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-qz94GDKlQhI/XtwAen-L7lI/AAAAAAAAC1A/FEoWFRoQq2MRMqVDuBCCWLURT2eaOF0_wCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/92B8CAD6-F628-4A71-A26D-30BF1036ECF3-2706-000001D5E853F60E.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="764" data-original-width="1023" height="148" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-qz94GDKlQhI/XtwAen-L7lI/AAAAAAAAC1A/FEoWFRoQq2MRMqVDuBCCWLURT2eaOF0_wCLcBGAsYHQ/s200/92B8CAD6-F628-4A71-A26D-30BF1036ECF3-2706-000001D5E853F60E.jpg" width="200" /></a></div>
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Finally I used porchys great little tool <a href="http://www.jammarcade.net/fluke-9010-signature-calculator-2/" target="_blank">Fluke 9010 Sig Calc</a> to calculate the signature for the ROM and do the ROM test<br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-z7v6ITHd2v4/XtwAq7eeDVI/AAAAAAAAC1I/Fklb-Il1fQI8NfZP17SuuRXe78MIoCBCwCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/BB2EC5D6-BF60-42BE-BC42-A2CDCD92DCE0-2706-000001D5D5320DCD.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="764" data-original-width="1023" height="148" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-z7v6ITHd2v4/XtwAq7eeDVI/AAAAAAAAC1I/Fklb-Il1fQI8NfZP17SuuRXe78MIoCBCwCLcBGAsYHQ/s200/BB2EC5D6-BF60-42BE-BC42-A2CDCD92DCE0-2706-000001D5D5320DCD.jpg" width="200" /></a><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-iCpZl_kq6oo/XtwAuyCXC8I/AAAAAAAAC1Q/D9go1T0nte0xb2Pn4Q6KIIPOz3LHUVRHgCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/3CF51E0D-21D0-4B25-9AA0-149E30BA5A02-2706-000001D5B28F3AF2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="764" data-original-width="1023" height="148" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-iCpZl_kq6oo/XtwAuyCXC8I/AAAAAAAAC1Q/D9go1T0nte0xb2Pn4Q6KIIPOz3LHUVRHgCLcBGAsYHQ/s200/3CF51E0D-21D0-4B25-9AA0-149E30BA5A02-2706-000001D5B28F3AF2.jpg" width="200" /></a></div>
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I find that the Fluke is nice and easy to work with, and that it has a lot more potential than what I've done with it here...I'm so very happy with it };-P<br />
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Case closed; I think I'll try to trade this board for some other defectives, as I don't like 1942 that much.Elgenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09955625580194567794noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4064555688737648169.post-3707185012340145072013-01-21T21:22:00.000+01:002020-06-15T21:39:56.614+02:00Sega Wonder Boy III Monster Lair Bootleg Repair Log<div style="text-align: right;">
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This board actually started out as an unknown. I traded an original working 1942 (as I don't like the game, and didn't play it) for 4 defective boards and some cash with a fellow collector from <a href="http://www.spille-maskiner.dk/" target="_blank">spille-maskiner.dk</a>. Three of them was: Miss Pacman, 1942 and Psychic5 (all bootlegs), but he was unable to identify the last one (clearly also a bootleg). So I read 3 of the PROMs and ran MAMEs romident on them</div>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-vx9iCwrzyUc/Xt5A6tIVsnI/AAAAAAAAC14/UqBVxapxR3YaIAyuM6VqRAkz2yq3qG-DgCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/85F4B04E-1DBC-444C-B447-90999F2AD5BA-209-0000001D0D8253B2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="764" data-original-width="1023" height="476" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-vx9iCwrzyUc/Xt5A6tIVsnI/AAAAAAAAC14/UqBVxapxR3YaIAyuM6VqRAkz2yq3qG-DgCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/85F4B04E-1DBC-444C-B447-90999F2AD5BA-209-0000001D0D8253B2.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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SWEET! I haven't got this game, and ever since beeing a little boy, I've loved this game; mainly because it's 2-player but also because of the super-cute graphics and the nice mix of platform and shmup. Now let's see if we can get it up'n'runnin'.<br />
After having a quick look at the edge connector, I took a chance and hooked the board up to my test rig / SuperGun via my Sega System16 adaptor, as the original board is System16. I got these screens<br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-sVKoOomhtNQ/Xt5BERbZpNI/AAAAAAAAC18/dl-T79zgP90FqHaS6zg_O-I4syVEFYzLgCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/262D9D5F-A733-42BA-97A0-FF387E32038F-209-0000001D1CE02BAD.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="764" data-original-width="1023" height="476" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-sVKoOomhtNQ/Xt5BERbZpNI/AAAAAAAAC18/dl-T79zgP90FqHaS6zg_O-I4syVEFYzLgCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/262D9D5F-A733-42BA-97A0-FF387E32038F-209-0000001D1CE02BAD.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-lGtxz53h_vg/Xt5BNqpw1dI/AAAAAAAAC2E/yxv9Mzu8dEQIkBSzZ8XfRMpo28BMMXJ7QCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/EF9A2601-8377-456B-A0C1-C1425D56B9F6-209-0000001D362A9A29.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="764" data-original-width="1023" height="476" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-lGtxz53h_vg/Xt5BNqpw1dI/AAAAAAAAC2E/yxv9Mzu8dEQIkBSzZ8XfRMpo28BMMXJ7QCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/EF9A2601-8377-456B-A0C1-C1425D56B9F6-209-0000001D362A9A29.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Cool, System16 was obviously the correct pin-out. Tried touching different parts and ICs on the board and looked for changes in the graphis, and when pressing down on the daugther board on the primary PCB<br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-0psLoAN0REU/Xt5BZYITvNI/AAAAAAAAC2M/kyAy5cd5tx4B2WpTsA1f8sDIrtbf8MGhQCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/E0314612-3988-4DC7-9847-ED48C0A58633-209-0000001D6EE572E7.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="764" data-original-width="1023" height="476" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-0psLoAN0REU/Xt5BZYITvNI/AAAAAAAAC2M/kyAy5cd5tx4B2WpTsA1f8sDIrtbf8MGhQCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/E0314612-3988-4DC7-9847-ED48C0A58633-209-0000001D6EE572E7.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-r3K5fKID-SI/Xt5BhqCG9vI/AAAAAAAAC2U/UmDr9Jl8wCgpwHRpCpnNCRVavYGP82pXQCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/6FF4DFFD-923B-4C72-A0D2-C634B2B01435-209-0000001D7B70C706.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="764" data-original-width="1023" height="476" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-r3K5fKID-SI/Xt5BhqCG9vI/AAAAAAAAC2U/UmDr9Jl8wCgpwHRpCpnNCRVavYGP82pXQCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/6FF4DFFD-923B-4C72-A0D2-C634B2B01435-209-0000001D7B70C706.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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I got this<br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-WIDdwgW_354/Xt5Bs0zOVjI/AAAAAAAAC2c/cbmeS899uEMthYazoRIdBE95C_nRrBLswCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/BA021F4A-A111-4082-96AA-26EB9176FC85-209-0000001D28CCF0C5.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="764" data-original-width="1023" height="476" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-WIDdwgW_354/Xt5Bs0zOVjI/AAAAAAAAC2c/cbmeS899uEMthYazoRIdBE95C_nRrBLswCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/BA021F4A-A111-4082-96AA-26EB9176FC85-209-0000001D28CCF0C5.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-amjlCHUlg68/Xt5B2hVPjtI/AAAAAAAAC2k/ixzXPEq9j8UY3ogAYSyQjVnrtArgnsvygCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/DCD679A5-1EA6-46AF-A706-ACD95B417597-209-0000001D640B8A3B.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="764" data-original-width="1023" height="476" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-amjlCHUlg68/Xt5B2hVPjtI/AAAAAAAAC2k/ixzXPEq9j8UY3ogAYSyQjVnrtArgnsvygCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/DCD679A5-1EA6-46AF-A706-ACD95B417597-209-0000001D640B8A3B.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Lovely...this seemed very promising indeed };-P This might turn out to be an easy fix...<br />
I cut the power, and took off the daugther board<br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-WtVhgN0BjQc/Xt5CAZj-RvI/AAAAAAAAC2s/s9W5eV6yJEw87s0VLHO4KPEgxQFRQDuFwCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/DBB79F3C-B3AA-4CE8-957C-F18B5CA43B7B-209-0000001D879D5ED5.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="764" data-original-width="1023" height="476" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-WtVhgN0BjQc/Xt5CAZj-RvI/AAAAAAAAC2s/s9W5eV6yJEw87s0VLHO4KPEgxQFRQDuFwCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/DBB79F3C-B3AA-4CE8-957C-F18B5CA43B7B-209-0000001D879D5ED5.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-d2tqaJIsSQc/Xt5CJmhGEpI/AAAAAAAAC2w/z8tigc78dtUPBuS3QqfmN9biz7GZJuzGwCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/C7FD361D-C2FB-46D8-975A-6E40CCC21819-209-0000001D9274E44E.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="764" data-original-width="1023" height="476" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-d2tqaJIsSQc/Xt5CJmhGEpI/AAAAAAAAC2w/z8tigc78dtUPBuS3QqfmN9biz7GZJuzGwCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/C7FD361D-C2FB-46D8-975A-6E40CCC21819-209-0000001D9274E44E.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Hmmm, 6 standard 20pins DIL-sockects to grap hold of the reletively long pins on the daugther board; not the most durable (or smart) solution ever seen };-S Well, had a closer look at the many pins, and they all look healthy. But when turning to the DIP-sockets, I found this<br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-iRmeuIvaFrs/Xt5CTqDCJTI/AAAAAAAAC24/so4hPpyXmH0u6fy9Pwup3bmhzqrk8QuvACLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/5500640E-C918-4B89-84E0-E84A7E3E9988-209-0000001D9D33ADF4.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="764" data-original-width="1023" height="476" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-iRmeuIvaFrs/Xt5CTqDCJTI/AAAAAAAAC24/so4hPpyXmH0u6fy9Pwup3bmhzqrk8QuvACLcBGAsYHQ/s640/5500640E-C918-4B89-84E0-E84A7E3E9988-209-0000001D9D33ADF4.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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It looked like the daugther board had at some point been forced into the sockets, but with 2 of the pins sligthly bend causing the metal in the coresponding DIP-holes to be deformed. This would surely cause bad contact for the 2 pins, and maby some of the others, as the board migth not be fitted correctly. I didn't have any new sockets, but found a decent looking one on one of my scraps. Removed the damaged socket<br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ezs1aq-ymSE/Xt5CcxVUr1I/AAAAAAAAC3A/i8cYmfdPc_krGnFbKAirDEfVlevkCTGTQCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/8661EB4A-A32B-4463-B2E5-06368F1EFEAA-209-0000001DA8F39F6D.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="764" data-original-width="1023" height="476" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ezs1aq-ymSE/Xt5CcxVUr1I/AAAAAAAAC3A/i8cYmfdPc_krGnFbKAirDEfVlevkCTGTQCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/8661EB4A-A32B-4463-B2E5-06368F1EFEAA-209-0000001DA8F39F6D.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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and fitted the one from the scrap board<br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-h1-OuZtN9Fs/Xt5ClUQVkaI/AAAAAAAAC3I/eGHLzjqDUpg1T3obNmcCiEr1pxkv4m5ZwCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/E33EB964-2803-4B33-BB4D-E02D1003CB2B-209-0000001DB3EC4743.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="764" data-original-width="1023" height="476" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-h1-OuZtN9Fs/Xt5ClUQVkaI/AAAAAAAAC3I/eGHLzjqDUpg1T3obNmcCiEr1pxkv4m5ZwCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/E33EB964-2803-4B33-BB4D-E02D1003CB2B-209-0000001DB3EC4743.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Here I have to mention how much I love my desoldering station. These 2 small desoldering tasks could easily have taken me 1+ hour instead of the 5mins I used };-P ... and with no damage to the socket nor the PCBs.<br />
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With the daugther board well fitted again, I powered up the game...and LO AND BEHOLD!<br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-xqZMN7FpKqg/Xt5Cv-_NuDI/AAAAAAAAC3Q/PDiLX_XONnYb_nuz1kZhGoabRXy-1vCbgCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/D90D36D9-6A02-4B80-BD01-8CB40DD958E1-209-0000001E822C02F7.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="764" data-original-width="1023" height="148" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-xqZMN7FpKqg/Xt5Cv-_NuDI/AAAAAAAAC3Q/PDiLX_XONnYb_nuz1kZhGoabRXy-1vCbgCLcBGAsYHQ/s200/D90D36D9-6A02-4B80-BD01-8CB40DD958E1-209-0000001E822C02F7.jpg" width="200" /></a><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-vRhE7SUqq4g/Xt5Cz9KH74I/AAAAAAAAC3U/lnf1nTQ_kXQIprfbXLesH797nBeqop3OgCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/E74EE802-C630-40FF-A714-D500987E6C15-209-0000001EA8F7F8F4.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="764" data-original-width="1023" height="148" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-vRhE7SUqq4g/Xt5Cz9KH74I/AAAAAAAAC3U/lnf1nTQ_kXQIprfbXLesH797nBeqop3OgCLcBGAsYHQ/s200/E74EE802-C630-40FF-A714-D500987E6C15-209-0000001EA8F7F8F4.jpg" width="200" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-GWzhVH9FNyM/Xt5C8gVHglI/AAAAAAAAC3Y/G5LaWl-4ZOMg_KiZOwjUUk-UfRBV_b4dgCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/5BFAFCBB-6D56-4B31-915F-F7731D249010-209-0000001E9F37757F.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="764" data-original-width="1023" height="148" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-GWzhVH9FNyM/Xt5C8gVHglI/AAAAAAAAC3Y/G5LaWl-4ZOMg_KiZOwjUUk-UfRBV_b4dgCLcBGAsYHQ/s200/5BFAFCBB-6D56-4B31-915F-F7731D249010-209-0000001E9F37757F.jpg" width="200" /></a><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-epfhbiePQ-M/Xt5DAyBBCJI/AAAAAAAAC3g/B0reIRLGWxQ55zrZYczRmpIubAKET5SqACLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/DBAE7E8D-6EE9-4080-9154-1DD94C07E13C-209-0000001E975F4EBD.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="764" data-original-width="1023" height="148" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-epfhbiePQ-M/Xt5DAyBBCJI/AAAAAAAAC3g/B0reIRLGWxQ55zrZYczRmpIubAKET5SqACLcBGAsYHQ/s200/DBAE7E8D-6EE9-4080-9154-1DD94C07E13C-209-0000001E975F4EBD.jpg" width="200" /></a></div>
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Now the next thing to address was, that until now the game had been dead silent, also when coined up and started! First thing I found, was this loose cap near the amp<br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-_4xnvR4_R4I/Xt5DMuS89JI/AAAAAAAAC3s/sqVEkL_F5WA2MgPPnHE4LWj0Axu-hGOBgCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/33EA859F-5994-4F34-8B1F-086560E65E74-209-0000001EBD951AFB.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="764" data-original-width="1023" height="476" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-_4xnvR4_R4I/Xt5DMuS89JI/AAAAAAAAC3s/sqVEkL_F5WA2MgPPnHE4LWj0Axu-hGOBgCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/33EA859F-5994-4F34-8B1F-086560E65E74-209-0000001EBD951AFB.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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The cap itself didn't look like it was knackered, so cleaned the holes and soldered it back in.<br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/--PWqYpr9RmU/Xt5DW4BXpsI/AAAAAAAAC30/DtEuL7OobswtZa4dXgVITHx_JyTxrCYiQCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/4D6BC10D-132B-4C51-BD7A-F94137CC451D-209-0000001ECEB4C114.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="764" data-original-width="1023" height="476" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/--PWqYpr9RmU/Xt5DW4BXpsI/AAAAAAAAC30/DtEuL7OobswtZa4dXgVITHx_JyTxrCYiQCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/4D6BC10D-132B-4C51-BD7A-F94137CC451D-209-0000001ECEB4C114.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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But still no sound; not all that surprising, cause after a closer inspection of the System16 pinout, this cap was merely a smoothening cap with no direct connection to the sound output; it just happend to be close by.<br />
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Tried running a finger over the pins of the amp while having the volume pot at both extremes, but didn't even get a slight hiss; clearly no signal at all got through to the monitor! I carefully lifted the amp from the PCB in order to find a part number<br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-3PZC-sMuPNY/Xt5DiA_YaVI/AAAAAAAAC38/s0R8KtzWmxkzBHsziWQMzFkfos-ptfmzQCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/03AFB5F1-E213-4ED0-BCFB-E05EF7679050-209-0000001EDAA1A96E.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="764" data-original-width="1023" height="476" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-3PZC-sMuPNY/Xt5DiA_YaVI/AAAAAAAAC38/s0R8KtzWmxkzBHsziWQMzFkfos-ptfmzQCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/03AFB5F1-E213-4ED0-BCFB-E05EF7679050-209-0000001EDAA1A96E.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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After A LOT of googling, I finally found some useful info at <a href="http://andysarcade.de/data/electronics/components/upc1181_upc1182.htm" target="_blank">andysarcade.de</a>; here's a screen dump of the pinout:<br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Pq6Ts3jWr2I/Xt5Drg7F8bI/AAAAAAAAC4E/wZZWusoY_2w1m4hRTGshxr_oOD3GgQVVwCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/1923C6B7-E504-4D73-8332-9BCD12ECFA24-209-0000001EF98E79CF.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="550" data-original-width="604" height="582" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Pq6Ts3jWr2I/Xt5Drg7F8bI/AAAAAAAAC4E/wZZWusoY_2w1m4hRTGshxr_oOD3GgQVVwCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/1923C6B7-E504-4D73-8332-9BCD12ECFA24-209-0000001EF98E79CF.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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So tried hitting the output (pin 5) with the scope<br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-_hNqOSfqAqM/Xt5D2-wO-kI/AAAAAAAAC4M/SqcKxRnXOu8JTEj5molChXHj86E4svN7wCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/BA4C2EE1-D31B-4869-AA47-962CC54D52DF-209-0000001EE525C117.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="764" data-original-width="1023" height="476" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-_hNqOSfqAqM/Xt5D2-wO-kI/AAAAAAAAC4M/SqcKxRnXOu8JTEj5molChXHj86E4svN7wCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/BA4C2EE1-D31B-4869-AA47-962CC54D52DF-209-0000001EE525C117.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-83wGbe4vPD8/Xt5EBfnW3WI/AAAAAAAAC4U/QVZ11sdp2OYuunJinTmsnCDe_AikZBM_wCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/D45D16A4-C883-4A66-83FB-4F3559BF8F19-209-0000001EEE661AB8.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="764" data-original-width="1023" height="476" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-83wGbe4vPD8/Xt5EBfnW3WI/AAAAAAAAC4U/QVZ11sdp2OYuunJinTmsnCDe_AikZBM_wCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/D45D16A4-C883-4A66-83FB-4F3559BF8F19-209-0000001EEE661AB8.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Now that surely looked like sound to me, and the pattern also changed, when coining up, pressing start ect. So the amp seem to work. I then traced the signal through a cap and then straight to SPEAKER- on the edge connector. Hmmm, wait a sec. what about SPEAKER+ then? By using my continuity tester, I found that it was connected directly to GND. Now while this would work flawlessly if the board is connected to a cab with a speaker, it was now clear to me why I didn't get any sound on the monitor. In my homemade <a href="http://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.1825635165893.110508.1390686556&type=1&l=d171261ea5" target="_blank">SuperGun</a> I feed SPEAKER+ and GND directly into the SCART-plug for mono-sound, so in this case, that would leave me with 2 x GND };-S<br />
A quick <a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=010KyIQjkTk" target="_blank">criss/cross</a> of the two speaker wires on the System16 adaptor, and I had sound.<br />
Now as I usually play arcade games on my SuperGun and not in the cabs, and as this is not an original but a bootleg, I decided to cross the two lines on the board instead (had it been an original, I'd made a custom adaptor instead). So found a place where they ran close together, cut the traces, and soldered two small pieces of wire on.<br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-saEtO-fvvuA/Xt5ENOvgxJI/AAAAAAAAC4c/JefhI5L-ToIQh7jY7CNfh0do10Yyi-AWwCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/50904ADD-2B1D-484F-A56E-35F5FD055549-209-0000001F0092EB75.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="764" data-original-width="1023" height="476" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-saEtO-fvvuA/Xt5ENOvgxJI/AAAAAAAAC4c/JefhI5L-ToIQh7jY7CNfh0do10Yyi-AWwCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/50904ADD-2B1D-484F-A56E-35F5FD055549-209-0000001F0092EB75.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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The game is now fully functional (also with my SuperGun), and I'm very happy to have it in my collection. However, it would be nicer to have the original, but you rarely see them up for sale...Elgenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09955625580194567794noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4064555688737648169.post-27115604915799624892012-12-29T20:36:00.000+01:002020-06-15T21:39:38.019+02:00Retrofitting an USB-port on a Fluke9010A<div style="text-align: right;">
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<span style="text-align: right;">Late November this year, I managed to snap up a dead-cheap </span><a href="http://tech.quarterarcade.com/tech/Fluke/9010A/Default.aspx" style="text-align: right;" target="_blank">Fluke9010A Microsystem Troubleshooter</a><span style="text-align: right;"> from evilBay. I owe tlosm aka Luigi from </span><a href="http://www.amibay.com/" style="text-align: right;" target="_blank">Amibay.com</a><span style="text-align: right;"> much gratitude for agreeing to act as middleman, as the Italian seller would not ship outside Italy except for a very unreasonable price. I ended up paying 65EURO all-in-all (half of what I would have paid if dealing directly with the seller) };-P</span></div>
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What I didn't know, was that a pleasant surprise was awaiting me upon receiving the machine: It was equipped with both the RS232- and the 006-option! };-P<br />
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After some visual inspection, I found that it had a few scratches, was missing a couple of screws and the tape drive, and was pretty dirty, but it powered up nicely and passed the self-test.<br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-WMkGb0MAzyQ/XuY2dLfTKgI/AAAAAAAAC5c/Xi1XUw4LoGIHjW1R6CL3-jhGGC2Clf78wCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/EB871E6B-F3BC-4DD1-9226-4389F3360607-7527-0000061A5EF26784.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="764" data-original-width="1023" height="476" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-WMkGb0MAzyQ/XuY2dLfTKgI/AAAAAAAAC5c/Xi1XUw4LoGIHjW1R6CL3-jhGGC2Clf78wCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/EB871E6B-F3BC-4DD1-9226-4389F3360607-7527-0000061A5EF26784.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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So I decided to clean it a bit.<br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ChYxKgJbnFQ/XuY2pamFA6I/AAAAAAAAC5g/Q5wEs1rbqGIMfUfyQjVJ5UfjukkzshUiACLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/5DEB719E-48FA-456E-9E03-37FBB0A79774-1107-000000A63F03B928_zps685877f0.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="764" data-original-width="1023" height="148" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ChYxKgJbnFQ/XuY2pamFA6I/AAAAAAAAC5g/Q5wEs1rbqGIMfUfyQjVJ5UfjukkzshUiACLcBGAsYHQ/s200/5DEB719E-48FA-456E-9E03-37FBB0A79774-1107-000000A63F03B928_zps685877f0.jpg" width="200" /></a><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-dSPJJa4H9u4/XuY2tPwKi9I/AAAAAAAAC5o/YStc1GxVu98C0v2dVmvd3ZoyxQ4Gr_HogCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/8BEDF7BB-C195-4A12-8A8D-D71EEB52472C-1107-000000A6BB8DB568.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="764" data-original-width="1023" height="148" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-dSPJJa4H9u4/XuY2tPwKi9I/AAAAAAAAC5o/YStc1GxVu98C0v2dVmvd3ZoyxQ4Gr_HogCLcBGAsYHQ/s200/8BEDF7BB-C195-4A12-8A8D-D71EEB52472C-1107-000000A6BB8DB568.jpg" width="200" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-J5Sef4Z8gec/XuY22jpaHqI/AAAAAAAAC5s/VGBdy7A4rpcFe1Jl07W5XGQroCXUWoDbQCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/2C286ED1-FA3D-4923-90BD-8DA021A198A1-1107-000000A6CB77C9C4.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="764" data-original-width="1023" height="148" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-J5Sef4Z8gec/XuY22jpaHqI/AAAAAAAAC5s/VGBdy7A4rpcFe1Jl07W5XGQroCXUWoDbQCLcBGAsYHQ/s200/2C286ED1-FA3D-4923-90BD-8DA021A198A1-1107-000000A6CB77C9C4.jpg" width="200" /></a><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-aS3EaT1Xctg/XuY25_RActI/AAAAAAAAC5w/f7yFOXioRx4OkCbCxJi2JJb9tNPV8g7JACLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/236C8D34-40B0-46F7-9297-582A3A560421-1107-000000A69BE1CCF5.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="764" data-original-width="1023" height="148" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-aS3EaT1Xctg/XuY25_RActI/AAAAAAAAC5w/f7yFOXioRx4OkCbCxJi2JJb9tNPV8g7JACLcBGAsYHQ/s200/236C8D34-40B0-46F7-9297-582A3A560421-1107-000000A69BE1CCF5.jpg" width="200" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Rkcg0qGI7Mo/XuY3D-WFCfI/AAAAAAAAC50/XDG075fk6PwfBcjZ2xGDYcz9mWptRCgRgCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/A663D0DC-DE79-4C42-AD15-059465F874E0-1107-000000A6AD9578F4.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="764" data-original-width="1023" height="148" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Rkcg0qGI7Mo/XuY3D-WFCfI/AAAAAAAAC50/XDG075fk6PwfBcjZ2xGDYcz9mWptRCgRgCLcBGAsYHQ/s200/A663D0DC-DE79-4C42-AD15-059465F874E0-1107-000000A6AD9578F4.jpg" width="200" /></a><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-5z2ZYjlNDuQ/XuY3G3FPCFI/AAAAAAAAC58/nM_xShHkIXMQWtw8NMTt-cusNjB3BTgOACLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/39E78EFB-B80F-441E-AEC6-157EBBCFB2D1-1107-000000A66968A38A.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="764" data-original-width="1023" height="148" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-5z2ZYjlNDuQ/XuY3G3FPCFI/AAAAAAAAC58/nM_xShHkIXMQWtw8NMTt-cusNjB3BTgOACLcBGAsYHQ/s200/39E78EFB-B80F-441E-AEC6-157EBBCFB2D1-1107-000000A66968A38A.jpg" width="200" /></a></div>
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and ended up with a machine that looked pretty decent (and still passed the self-test).<br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-2cEYnnYTtd4/XuY3RCGgraI/AAAAAAAAC6E/dhhEVv9UYK8txG0vzwvAC88KB9gU6ZQTQCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/78302811-479C-46A3-AE10-ADFA233C3229-1107-000000A6F45CF361.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="764" data-original-width="1023" height="476" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-2cEYnnYTtd4/XuY3RCGgraI/AAAAAAAAC6E/dhhEVv9UYK8txG0vzwvAC88KB9gU6ZQTQCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/78302811-479C-46A3-AE10-ADFA233C3229-1107-000000A6F45CF361.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Now in order to start playing with this wonderful machine, I would need some interface pods. But that can take some time to find, so in the meantime, I would try to use the RS232-option to hook up it up to a PC using <a href="http://tech.quarterarcade.com/tech/Fluke/9010A/FIDE.aspx" target="_blank">FIDE</a>. Now I do have an old laptop with a COM-port, but would much rather like to use my lovely Lenovo that is my primary PC, but only has a couple of USB-ports. So I went to evilBay and ordered a cheap little <a href="http://www.ebay.com/itm/271101261492?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2648" target="_blank">USB-to-RS232 Adaptor</a>. After a week or two it arrived.<br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-YJaq7ihEgWo/XuY3bLbUdbI/AAAAAAAAC6Q/TY_iQFWHnxQWwZssWZ6nFNLpxEEQ1VupwCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/4416B960-F2DD-4A25-8B3B-D631BBF04CEE-1107-000000A8356CE865.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="764" data-original-width="1023" height="476" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-YJaq7ihEgWo/XuY3bLbUdbI/AAAAAAAAC6Q/TY_iQFWHnxQWwZssWZ6nFNLpxEEQ1VupwCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/4416B960-F2DD-4A25-8B3B-D631BBF04CEE-1107-000000A8356CE865.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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In order to use it with the Fluke, I would need a cable too...or would I? Hmmm, the adaptor was easily disassembled by pressing gently on the USB-plug revealing a tiny PCB with both plugs soldered directly onto it.<br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-LtXO0k-hRO0/XuY3oJVcAoI/AAAAAAAAC6Y/4I78KU1XOuUKaf8t1T7xTMT2rVX5QFn3gCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/A0FAB39B-FF5E-47B3-B135-D1785791C083-1107-000000A8435206A9.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="764" data-original-width="1023" height="476" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-LtXO0k-hRO0/XuY3oJVcAoI/AAAAAAAAC6Y/4I78KU1XOuUKaf8t1T7xTMT2rVX5QFn3gCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/A0FAB39B-FF5E-47B3-B135-D1785791C083-1107-000000A8435206A9.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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My plan was to built this into the Fluke and add a <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:USB.svg" target="_blank">USB Type-B</a> plug on the backplate here.<br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-QgmrXpqIADQ/XuY3xYEmLyI/AAAAAAAAC6g/0P_Y7Dc3Bjw2-7Hxbxzs2FWe-e3x4srhgCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/7527FB54-9492-4B40-B8C7-6D9744F12523-1107-000000A7E154BAB1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="764" data-original-width="1023" height="476" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-QgmrXpqIADQ/XuY3xYEmLyI/AAAAAAAAC6g/0P_Y7Dc3Bjw2-7Hxbxzs2FWe-e3x4srhgCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/7527FB54-9492-4B40-B8C7-6D9744F12523-1107-000000A7E154BAB1.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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So I started by desoldering the D-Sub from the adaptor.<br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-UHYYJgPINkc/XuY35mNTBcI/AAAAAAAAC6o/tQlQwhtXYsoLcn65zRwt9rv8Q-pu0oI7ACLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/3FDC0EAB-929C-4E9B-8B64-99689DEFB2D6-1107-000000A854F69419.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="764" data-original-width="1023" height="476" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-UHYYJgPINkc/XuY35mNTBcI/AAAAAAAAC6o/tQlQwhtXYsoLcn65zRwt9rv8Q-pu0oI7ACLcBGAsYHQ/s640/3FDC0EAB-929C-4E9B-8B64-99689DEFB2D6-1107-000000A854F69419.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Next it had to be hooked up to the Flukes RS232 port. The port is attached to the PCB by a 6-way molex connector (only 5 pins in use).<br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Nra2Zakep2k/XuY4BRXHKHI/AAAAAAAAC6w/6k7kXSbl8bob1HyL_ED4SSFNj7dW52gQACLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/0DF8BB0E-1FB6-4B14-AFF3-017DCDEC6D9F-1107-000000A7FACB22A1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="764" data-original-width="1023" height="476" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Nra2Zakep2k/XuY4BRXHKHI/AAAAAAAAC6w/6k7kXSbl8bob1HyL_ED4SSFNj7dW52gQACLcBGAsYHQ/s640/0DF8BB0E-1FB6-4B14-AFF3-017DCDEC6D9F-1107-000000A7FACB22A1.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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If you press very gently (but firmly) into the holes on the side of the molex plug with a small screwdriver, you are able to pull out that connector. My plan was to "piggybag" these 5 connectors with wires.<br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-E4xfpGhaL9s/XuY4J_aqk_I/AAAAAAAAC64/boWdcM8etJYnQTMCZnFSTtK38MirrR5UACLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/B99A7FB7-57A8-4A0B-9C4C-0FCD97EECE3E-1107-000000A806B5BFBA.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="764" data-original-width="1023" height="476" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-E4xfpGhaL9s/XuY4J_aqk_I/AAAAAAAAC64/boWdcM8etJYnQTMCZnFSTtK38MirrR5UACLcBGAsYHQ/s640/B99A7FB7-57A8-4A0B-9C4C-0FCD97EECE3E-1107-000000A806B5BFBA.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-XYdfsduD7N8/XuY4Ual_tYI/AAAAAAAAC7A/FwtvZLvuPpUmc4WsBt6G1UN0QZJfwZ1pwCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/673FB53D-F3B7-4F7E-8511-C1D000756245-1107-000000A814B89B27.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="764" data-original-width="1023" height="476" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-XYdfsduD7N8/XuY4Ual_tYI/AAAAAAAAC7A/FwtvZLvuPpUmc4WsBt6G1UN0QZJfwZ1pwCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/673FB53D-F3B7-4F7E-8511-C1D000756245-1107-000000A814B89B27.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-LmJWOBnBXi0/XuY4hnfoeOI/AAAAAAAAC7I/quJsYTBUnhUtMuQNL2oA-xg_6xdUt9BDACLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/C595AE28-059C-42C1-AAD5-F33C1655AAB3-1107-000000A820D6CE24.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="764" data-original-width="1023" height="476" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-LmJWOBnBXi0/XuY4hnfoeOI/AAAAAAAAC7I/quJsYTBUnhUtMuQNL2oA-xg_6xdUt9BDACLcBGAsYHQ/s640/C595AE28-059C-42C1-AAD5-F33C1655AAB3-1107-000000A820D6CE24.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Next I hooked up the adaptor according to <a href="http://www.lammertbies.nl/comm/cable/RS-232.html#conv" target="_blank">this diagram</a>. I plugged it into the PC, fired up FIDE, prepared the Fluke and tried to send a sample program. Nothing at all happened on the Fluke! };-S Hmmm, went back and had a read in the Fluke manual and discovered that one should use a null-modem cable and not a strait-through. So changed the wiring according to <a href="http://www.nullmodem.com/NullModem.htm" target="_blank">this diagram</a> instead. Now at least something displayed on the Fluke: Sometimes I got "PARITY ERROR" and sometimes "FRAME ERROR". Tried a bunch of different combinations with speed, parity, number of databits, and start- and stopbits. Still same-same. I decided to let the whole thing rest for the night, as I was also i bit tired.<br />
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Next day, fresh in my mind! I discovered a little white marking on the turnwheel to set the RS232 speed on the back of the Fluke (see pic higher above). Until now I had though that the slot you put the screwdriver in was the indicator of the position, but having a closer look at the white marking, I could see the shape of a small arrow underneath it. AHAAAA!!! He cried out loud! I now put the turnwheel into position 7 according to the arrow and presto... I was able to upload my sample program<br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-EgyTMIxYhAY/XuY4pw-aCDI/AAAAAAAAC7Q/ZfHX0DcCDVsIDhcGG-krq-lwz_YVM_2rgCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/D2036228-1DE0-45B8-A3BF-596958F678A8-1107-000000A8BB9AB05E-1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="764" data-original-width="1023" height="476" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-EgyTMIxYhAY/XuY4pw-aCDI/AAAAAAAAC7Q/ZfHX0DcCDVsIDhcGG-krq-lwz_YVM_2rgCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/D2036228-1DE0-45B8-A3BF-596958F678A8-1107-000000A8BB9AB05E-1.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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and execute it<br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-4H5xRAdxhzY/XuY4zYh_n1I/AAAAAAAAC7Y/D3rrjhH0eioke-nKGnv30zSvqsfaWfMZwCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/7A7446B4-15EA-4533-8FB2-98C8FFB8A9E1-1107-000000A8A42129E3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="764" data-original-width="1023" height="476" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-4H5xRAdxhzY/XuY4zYh_n1I/AAAAAAAAC7Y/D3rrjhH0eioke-nKGnv30zSvqsfaWfMZwCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/7A7446B4-15EA-4533-8FB2-98C8FFB8A9E1-1107-000000A8A42129E3.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Fantastic! So it was actually possible to communicate with the Fluke using FIDE on Win7 (32bit) and a cheap USB-to-RS232 adaptor };-P Now I could have just stopped there with the USB-wire coming out of the tape-drive hole; but I wanted it to look a bit nicer than that.<br />
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I dug up this little PCB from the pile (have no idea what it's for) and a piece of shielding metal (as solder bites on it)<br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-llxtlJS0g60/XuY46L4F2PI/AAAAAAAAC7g/lZPvOxdhGV8aQXiteTEy6EC96LNxPOHKQCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/EE5FA863-E379-4E99-8957-369B1ECE2456-1107-000000A880B99839.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="764" data-original-width="1023" height="476" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-llxtlJS0g60/XuY46L4F2PI/AAAAAAAAC7g/lZPvOxdhGV8aQXiteTEy6EC96LNxPOHKQCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/EE5FA863-E379-4E99-8957-369B1ECE2456-1107-000000A880B99839.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Desoldered the USB Type-B plug and made 2 small wings from the metal piece using the Dremel. I then soldered the wings onto the sides of the plug.<br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-hQ0qReSgWgg/XuY5BW-Hu0I/AAAAAAAAC7k/8YhFvLW99ikSCQt8PnpnuJiYrTTbnFemACLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/2E9DDCC1-3E83-4126-A7F3-0190930595D0-1107-000000A89AEC2F44.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="764" data-original-width="1023" height="148" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-hQ0qReSgWgg/XuY5BW-Hu0I/AAAAAAAAC7k/8YhFvLW99ikSCQt8PnpnuJiYrTTbnFemACLcBGAsYHQ/s200/2E9DDCC1-3E83-4126-A7F3-0190930595D0-1107-000000A89AEC2F44.jpg" width="200" /></a><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-5JA0booBxIQ/XuY5FSih69I/AAAAAAAAC7o/GKAQ7LDvNeg9aXwDVaQpPmeBW8twBomMwCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/B5384738-3C04-4707-A190-176B8D68D3A9-1107-000000A88DD7468A.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="764" data-original-width="1023" height="148" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-5JA0booBxIQ/XuY5FSih69I/AAAAAAAAC7o/GKAQ7LDvNeg9aXwDVaQpPmeBW8twBomMwCLcBGAsYHQ/s200/B5384738-3C04-4707-A190-176B8D68D3A9-1107-000000A88DD7468A.jpg" width="200" /></a></div>
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Next I found a nice place for the plug,<br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-KqZvAE0Aork/XuY5P2kYlgI/AAAAAAAAC7w/VNfFj7pV4c0fxQT86pLIspvuutiu3KfhgCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/14F1CEE5-5223-401B-9B39-0CC91CDE8E09-1107-000000A8C622B4C9.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="764" data-original-width="1023" height="476" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-KqZvAE0Aork/XuY5P2kYlgI/AAAAAAAAC7w/VNfFj7pV4c0fxQT86pLIspvuutiu3KfhgCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/14F1CEE5-5223-401B-9B39-0CC91CDE8E09-1107-000000A8C622B4C9.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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made the hole using Dremel and some small files, drilled 2 holes and attached the plugs using small nuts and bolts.<br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-NfZUFK1Bmis/XuY5XkS6AzI/AAAAAAAAC78/4ZjiaknhnIE299AlFQKFwfGHBYQOQEuhgCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/314B2369-8466-4C3D-80A0-C8ED0BB13E4F-1107-000000A935C08C76.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="764" data-original-width="1023" height="476" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-NfZUFK1Bmis/XuY5XkS6AzI/AAAAAAAAC78/4ZjiaknhnIE299AlFQKFwfGHBYQOQEuhgCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/314B2369-8466-4C3D-80A0-C8ED0BB13E4F-1107-000000A935C08C76.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Here is a picture with the USB cable plugged in<br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-X4eliQSOsU8/XuY5iJfIhwI/AAAAAAAAC8E/QpEpVedM2Ps4zUzaA8bU6W5cFODBhl6CwCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/66BF8374-01BD-426E-B20B-5DB6FCADB84A-1107-000000A973358ECC.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="764" data-original-width="1023" height="476" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-X4eliQSOsU8/XuY5iJfIhwI/AAAAAAAAC8E/QpEpVedM2Ps4zUzaA8bU6W5cFODBhl6CwCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/66BF8374-01BD-426E-B20B-5DB6FCADB84A-1107-000000A973358ECC.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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and here a look inside the Fluke<br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Kkrk__hERIA/XuY5sfMOU3I/AAAAAAAAC8M/omxqSi_m7XsF3nTTTcXDl67LDdPJEh5swCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/A7D53472-8CDB-43A1-91EA-E49BF03A95F0-1107-000000A91BA3E986.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="764" data-original-width="1023" height="476" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Kkrk__hERIA/XuY5sfMOU3I/AAAAAAAAC8M/omxqSi_m7XsF3nTTTcXDl67LDdPJEh5swCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/A7D53472-8CDB-43A1-91EA-E49BF03A95F0-1107-000000A91BA3E986.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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All in all I'm pretty satisfied with the result, and I don't have any fuss with messing around with adaptors and null-modem cables when working with the Fluke.<br />
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Last but certainly not least, I have to send a big round of thanks to Andy aka Andreas who is running <a href="http://andysarcade.de/" target="_blank">andys arcade</a> for kindly selling me 3 interface pods here just before Christmas. It was Z80, 6502, and 68000 (the 68000 was even from his private collection). They all passes self-test, but besides that, I haven't had time to play with them with all this Christmas going on.<br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-vj0w075QWPw/XuY51YhuTdI/AAAAAAAAC8Q/gcFrmj92Bc8Ci51H_A2-Ffw2tx4HGaWRACLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/E5D9A461-5DDD-4A6E-9497-D0FA5DDB60D7-923-00000071A08BAB06.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="764" data-original-width="1023" height="148" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-vj0w075QWPw/XuY51YhuTdI/AAAAAAAAC8Q/gcFrmj92Bc8Ci51H_A2-Ffw2tx4HGaWRACLcBGAsYHQ/s200/E5D9A461-5DDD-4A6E-9497-D0FA5DDB60D7-923-00000071A08BAB06.jpg" width="200" /></a><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-768cR9fql3o/XuY55LiMk0I/AAAAAAAAC8U/wy-yYe4ZGcweeTLKdZzmfDl6TEZmStw9gCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/73A3E513-8806-401F-A03D-9092F8A238AD-923-00000071CCC16C75.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="764" data-original-width="1023" height="148" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-768cR9fql3o/XuY55LiMk0I/AAAAAAAAC8U/wy-yYe4ZGcweeTLKdZzmfDl6TEZmStw9gCLcBGAsYHQ/s200/73A3E513-8806-401F-A03D-9092F8A238AD-923-00000071CCC16C75.jpg" width="200" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-joCsIIUfK6k/XuY6BMut_QI/AAAAAAAAC8c/Dq1sJL_liWgqgkHkV2lu9c3ZaQ5-jftNQCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/6BC59EEB-3723-4B4C-9C3E-0330EC266054-923-00000071BA906995.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="764" data-original-width="1023" height="148" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-joCsIIUfK6k/XuY6BMut_QI/AAAAAAAAC8c/Dq1sJL_liWgqgkHkV2lu9c3ZaQ5-jftNQCLcBGAsYHQ/s200/6BC59EEB-3723-4B4C-9C3E-0330EC266054-923-00000071BA906995.jpg" width="200" /></a><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-w3gkIzj_p30/XuY6EnapfyI/AAAAAAAAC8g/LE50vChe-DAovSZh79Xpv3p7SZTroWljwCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/B966AF61-BD2C-48F0-9331-784D272F7115-923-00000071DE4D2C46.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="764" data-original-width="1023" height="148" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-w3gkIzj_p30/XuY6EnapfyI/AAAAAAAAC8g/LE50vChe-DAovSZh79Xpv3p7SZTroWljwCLcBGAsYHQ/s200/B966AF61-BD2C-48F0-9331-784D272F7115-923-00000071DE4D2C46.jpg" width="200" /></a></div>
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I Wish You All A Very Merry Christmas And A Happy New Year };-P</div>
Elgenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09955625580194567794noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4064555688737648169.post-26288277006607760832012-12-28T19:34:00.000+01:002020-06-15T21:39:12.272+02:00Finding, repairing, and enhancing a Commodore C1901<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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My friends often tell my that I'm often lucky to stumble upon cool stuff that other people have trashed. And, hmmm, well maybe I actually am };-P.</div>
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This day I was out walking with my daugther (age 8years) and I had my youngest son (age 1½years) in the pram. Suddenly in the corner of my eye I saw the well known Commodore C= logo at the other side of the street. I rushed to see what it was; a lot with a C128, C1901 monitor, and some smaller stuff. As it was raining a bit, I didn't get a close look at it, just stuffed the things under the pram and took the monitor in hand. Steering the pram with one hand, holding the monitor in the other, I began the trip home.<br />
When I got home, I had a closer look at my loot.<br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-SV_VAwbwsMo/XuY7PfniaPI/AAAAAAAAC80/kc0m1z5nVOk7SBBs0GfzyjrtBEnBeLopACLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/IMG_2923.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="764" data-original-width="1023" height="476" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-SV_VAwbwsMo/XuY7PfniaPI/AAAAAAAAC80/kc0m1z5nVOk7SBBs0GfzyjrtBEnBeLopACLcBGAsYHQ/s640/IMG_2923.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-PLchHNL3JCk/XuY7YZ1NY1I/AAAAAAAAC84/Od5omhKKh8AlmNRM1bTR8RAMzhpiDRXMwCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/IMG_2924.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="764" data-original-width="1023" height="476" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-PLchHNL3JCk/XuY7YZ1NY1I/AAAAAAAAC84/Od5omhKKh8AlmNRM1bTR8RAMzhpiDRXMwCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/IMG_2924.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-VpsMOQiTD2k/XuY7f3WT1VI/AAAAAAAAC9A/Q0OVNYJuwPY4i5ZsDkBOm_H3KENySTfJgCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/IMG_2925.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="764" data-original-width="1023" height="476" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-VpsMOQiTD2k/XuY7f3WT1VI/AAAAAAAAC9A/Q0OVNYJuwPY4i5ZsDkBOm_H3KENySTfJgCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/IMG_2925.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-g3otPoNdQWk/XuY7nqUqhZI/AAAAAAAAC9E/EUzTV_K2V0cXLn-W99yrkQGDm6OAAD2eQCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/2CABE7CD-5126-4F80-BDAF-E6185A2761BE-11758-00000904636DFB0C.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1195" data-original-width="1600" height="478" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-g3otPoNdQWk/XuY7nqUqhZI/AAAAAAAAC9E/EUzTV_K2V0cXLn-W99yrkQGDm6OAAD2eQCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/2CABE7CD-5126-4F80-BDAF-E6185A2761BE-11758-00000904636DFB0C.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-NNk5klupgvA/XuY7vFk1cLI/AAAAAAAAC9I/fYoU3bmlBhIN-NtSQLweW4Sq1WUiCRN0QCEwYBhgLKs4DAL1Ocqzr4x84LVSNOELpWHec8AQpvii5ShsbxSdCF93P_5DvrNupqmVuGas55JBMuZ6vVv-ndLBD9a59vplBeC0jNduDCb0PUuuz584gwKAjQvYzoFknc2d2vfybna4S0ZhlZ1MZEMe_B7c1D40FdgVZrjojbhlebCnsLp--uZ2OXeqtj-xo-zj-uq4ppwZREBEuGMq2v-99dCH4yZCgA7UqCxIaO8QAq9VKP-gRrPKmHd0nXwaHpTr_LCH4Ss85nF8yyOmFXQo0msiJSmIKDCT29-VYOUntvYB1cTiZJOTxX80v8E1Tatn5j-Eq0gSNE_n_9wuoCMjBvop86zyBMIXePJzRQVqLwT7SbViDcUd7oDJiwmpcuveZAB06bzv7H_lcN6QBIRBwwTmiIKS_psCnDaPBMPiRDYcoJ34c_9pOGwWSPQUDok2yMRqzg0T8G2p_BkUqhswpxkR-yP1dVnYa2iHNCSMQBPWjwyOczyODge_BIN47vkA9bbHpP_jxZZCIbgsCCBAlOHtqUe9SXOvHHj5_lH5AXND9PyCSamvDFRQg7Pd9VmDqoL5io_AiCAKMnrT032ik2m0d8TO93x9f0Ho8J_75MoejgJZ4MLH8mPcF/s1600/IMG_2922.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="764" data-original-width="1023" height="476" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-NNk5klupgvA/XuY7vFk1cLI/AAAAAAAAC9I/fYoU3bmlBhIN-NtSQLweW4Sq1WUiCRN0QCEwYBhgLKs4DAL1Ocqzr4x84LVSNOELpWHec8AQpvii5ShsbxSdCF93P_5DvrNupqmVuGas55JBMuZ6vVv-ndLBD9a59vplBeC0jNduDCb0PUuuz584gwKAjQvYzoFknc2d2vfybna4S0ZhlZ1MZEMe_B7c1D40FdgVZrjojbhlebCnsLp--uZ2OXeqtj-xo-zj-uq4ppwZREBEuGMq2v-99dCH4yZCgA7UqCxIaO8QAq9VKP-gRrPKmHd0nXwaHpTr_LCH4Ss85nF8yyOmFXQo0msiJSmIKDCT29-VYOUntvYB1cTiZJOTxX80v8E1Tatn5j-Eq0gSNE_n_9wuoCMjBvop86zyBMIXePJzRQVqLwT7SbViDcUd7oDJiwmpcuveZAB06bzv7H_lcN6QBIRBwwTmiIKS_psCnDaPBMPiRDYcoJ34c_9pOGwWSPQUDok2yMRqzg0T8G2p_BkUqhswpxkR-yP1dVnYa2iHNCSMQBPWjwyOczyODge_BIN47vkA9bbHpP_jxZZCIbgsCCBAlOHtqUe9SXOvHHj5_lH5AXND9PyCSamvDFRQg7Pd9VmDqoL5io_AiCAKMnrT032ik2m0d8TO93x9f0Ho8J_75MoejgJZ4MLH8mPcF/s640/IMG_2922.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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But, as you've properly noticed from the photos, the people who'd thrown these goodies away, had been so 'kind' as to cut all the wires they could find before trashing the lot };-S<br />
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Well first thing to do, was to let the whole lot rest in my nice warm basement for a couple of weeks in order to dry it up. After that, I decided on having a closer look at the monitor to see if it was alive. As the power cord had been cut by the former owner, I fitted a power plug I had from and old defect ATX-PSU. The hole in back casing was already prepared; it was only a matter of cutting the plastic bit out with a Stanley knife.<br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-MOqFDyMnNBc/XuY8A2_iKAI/AAAAAAAAC9Y/7oVo7A-LrnoVeMNiQLn-OhfJ8EYf0lQiQCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/2E032E14-F528-4667-8134-47A6481D6797-6484-000005AA54C81B4B.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="764" data-original-width="1023" height="476" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-MOqFDyMnNBc/XuY8A2_iKAI/AAAAAAAAC9Y/7oVo7A-LrnoVeMNiQLn-OhfJ8EYf0lQiQCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/2E032E14-F528-4667-8134-47A6481D6797-6484-000005AA54C81B4B.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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I connected a power cord and pushed the switch. I heard the well-known sound of a degaussing circuit and the high frequent noise from the tube powering up };-P But then there was a loud POOOF, then a loud hissing noise, and then white smelly smoke began to emerge from the insides of the monitor. ARGH! Quickly I pulled the plug, and the smoke stopped emerging. PHEW! I did this testing in the evening in my workshop in the basement; and my workshop happens to be just next door to our bedroom. I was NOT the popular husband that night, as the smoke was extremely smelly; a bit like rotten fish mixed with the smell of old fart };-S<br />
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Hmmm, the next day I had a closer look inside the monitor to see if I could find the source of the white smoke. But nothing was obvious... I had to try and apply power again! To avoid getting a divorce attorney on my back, I did the testing outside this time.<br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-er7R9fTynIk/XuY8IPf6USI/AAAAAAAAC9c/WKay4_EuDGkJtIgTPoK230jcVahGomxrACLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/A16D7327-B96E-4ABC-AFA4-863FFEE3758B-6484-000005A9BBE0CE15.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="764" data-original-width="1023" height="476" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-er7R9fTynIk/XuY8IPf6USI/AAAAAAAAC9c/WKay4_EuDGkJtIgTPoK230jcVahGomxrACLcBGAsYHQ/s640/A16D7327-B96E-4ABC-AFA4-863FFEE3758B-6484-000005A9BBE0CE15.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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...but to my suprise, no smoking and no hissing from the monitor?! The bright light outside did however help me get a good look inside. And near the front of the monitor, I found this little felow.<br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-IfFgQjISa_4/XuY8PFB0aoI/AAAAAAAAC9g/U05DG9cMRFUGt8YmM4ynZsB310i5KTIlQCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/DD21C7A2-9D40-4036-B80C-3B36E5EE5886-6484-000005A9E359ADA0.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="764" data-original-width="1024" height="476" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-IfFgQjISa_4/XuY8PFB0aoI/AAAAAAAAC9g/U05DG9cMRFUGt8YmM4ynZsB310i5KTIlQCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/DD21C7A2-9D40-4036-B80C-3B36E5EE5886-6484-000005A9E359ADA0.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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By googling a bit, I found out, that this is what is known as a so called <i>safety capacitor</i>. I don't really know what it is there fore, but it was obviously toasted. So I desoldered the poor thing.<br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-lY48NyMjdao/XuY8V4emfRI/AAAAAAAAC9o/95PKDHOyiwAZXjOBVdORfoi6ZBmVwvsmwCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/ADAB55B7-73AF-4BF5-949B-66975D64E4F8-6484-000005A9ED2AF656.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="501" data-original-width="671" height="476" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-lY48NyMjdao/XuY8V4emfRI/AAAAAAAAC9o/95PKDHOyiwAZXjOBVdORfoi6ZBmVwvsmwCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/ADAB55B7-73AF-4BF5-949B-66975D64E4F8-6484-000005A9ED2AF656.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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In the defective ATX-PSU mentioned earlier, I found this little guy with the same specs, as the one I've just removed from the monitor.<br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-wCIVIkul0EA/XuY8cw933VI/AAAAAAAAC9s/T28zzqG-JIM3DZyDKnw9lxMV83Kj5BTfgCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/296E488F-F6A2-4804-9E65-4F327B4198E8-6484-000005A9F5B12A26.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="596" data-original-width="798" height="476" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-wCIVIkul0EA/XuY8cw933VI/AAAAAAAAC9s/T28zzqG-JIM3DZyDKnw9lxMV83Kj5BTfgCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/296E488F-F6A2-4804-9E65-4F327B4198E8-6484-000005A9F5B12A26.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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So onto the chassis PCB it went.<br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Io-0By5ylNg/XuY8kJlV-xI/AAAAAAAAC90/0rzfxMC4xDcIu3DMlzzvf4JNmCM3qP0nACLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/D397CEC5-F6BB-4608-A0F1-F8B87DC4EB5D-6484-000005A9FD406F0A.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="605" data-original-width="810" height="478" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Io-0By5ylNg/XuY8kJlV-xI/AAAAAAAAC90/0rzfxMC4xDcIu3DMlzzvf4JNmCM3qP0nACLcBGAsYHQ/s640/D397CEC5-F6BB-4608-A0F1-F8B87DC4EB5D-6484-000005A9FD406F0A.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Now there was no hissing or smoking anymore };-P Time to see if the monitor actually worked. I googled that the inputs was digital RGB (used by the C128) and composite. So I hooked up my Amiga A600 through it's built-in composite module and got this<br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-3DppaXlkPos/XuY8rG1WtKI/AAAAAAAAC98/R51_SLMNPccl11cb3vyjt1GXlEvVstvKwCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/55A20E5E-F0F3-44F2-A192-179CCAB031B2-6484-000005AA0C4973CC.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="764" data-original-width="1023" height="476" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-3DppaXlkPos/XuY8rG1WtKI/AAAAAAAAC98/R51_SLMNPccl11cb3vyjt1GXlEvVstvKwCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/55A20E5E-F0F3-44F2-A192-179CCAB031B2-6484-000005AA0C4973CC.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Hmmm, no colours?! This looked an awefull lot like a Commodore S-Video signal missing it's chroma input. Did a bit more googling, and found that this monitor model came in different flavours: With composite input, S-Video or both, but it seems like the chassis is the same on all these; you can just add the missing inputs. However my googling also led me to a blog runned by a guy calling himself JetSetSkippy. He had <a href="http://jetsetskippy.blogspot.dk/2012/05/refurbished-commodore-1901-monitor-1985.html" target="_blank">this awesome post</a>, where he amongst other things, retrofits a C1901 with a SCART plug enabling it to be used with true analog RGB-input (15kHz) };-P This was almost too good to be true, so I found a SCART plug in the pile and started right away.<br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-BTo1YBD-R-0/XuY8yqviXAI/AAAAAAAAC-E/qDrAK27UfVgsiEktHHpIr6EakzIEx1tJQCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/IMG_2926_zpsff3c4d5c.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="764" data-original-width="1023" height="476" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-BTo1YBD-R-0/XuY8yqviXAI/AAAAAAAAC-E/qDrAK27UfVgsiEktHHpIr6EakzIEx1tJQCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/IMG_2926_zpsff3c4d5c.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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As Skippy also explains, this chassis is already prepared for a SCART plug (notice the 2 rows of holes in the PCB just below the D-Sub in the pic). But the crazy thing is, that the designers must have gotten something wrong; cause the holes are reversed so you can't just solder in a standard 90 degree angled SCART plug. Maby that is also why this monitor ended up not being shipped with a SCART plug?! Therefore I (like Skippy) soldered wires on all the pins of the plug and began the cumbersome task of soldering them onto the chassis.<br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ElLOhVYzqm4/XuY8888KKKI/AAAAAAAAC-Q/2MMu2vFIZZMhx2LOMzTLo8HjgrwfCVy8ACLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/D5C0835E-3538-4116-8DAA-3211EE7140EA-6484-000005AA1A3851C5.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="764" data-original-width="1023" height="476" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ElLOhVYzqm4/XuY8888KKKI/AAAAAAAAC-Q/2MMu2vFIZZMhx2LOMzTLo8HjgrwfCVy8ACLcBGAsYHQ/s640/D5C0835E-3538-4116-8DAA-3211EE7140EA-6484-000005AA1A3851C5.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Phew! All the wires had to fit in a really tight spot, but finally I pulled it through (look under the black ribbon cable).<br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-oN5IAbTuS2s/XuY9ES9nEmI/AAAAAAAAC-Y/1t30l_WQbaEfUuIArCJdO8t3wGRTBOYyQCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/B94E9CD7-FCA2-430A-BA01-BE06C4E25E9B-6484-000005AA35E6ECB8.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="764" data-original-width="1023" height="476" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-oN5IAbTuS2s/XuY9ES9nEmI/AAAAAAAAC-Y/1t30l_WQbaEfUuIArCJdO8t3wGRTBOYyQCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/B94E9CD7-FCA2-430A-BA01-BE06C4E25E9B-6484-000005AA35E6ECB8.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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The plug was then attached to the metal frame in the hole already there...<br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ZY6APN2vesk/XuY9Ms-vkzI/AAAAAAAAC-g/4VHoM853drAOjmpzdODo1RuW6-Jj11RfwCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/07736B55-9A36-4343-9DD7-356DA68FA296-6484-000005AA27BA9DFA.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="764" data-original-width="1023" height="476" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ZY6APN2vesk/XuY9Ms-vkzI/AAAAAAAAC-g/4VHoM853drAOjmpzdODo1RuW6-Jj11RfwCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/07736B55-9A36-4343-9DD7-356DA68FA296-6484-000005AA27BA9DFA.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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...and the plastic casing was cut.<br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-83Bc_pwprgc/XuY9V4XlbtI/AAAAAAAAC-k/5g93tnDIcigWtgFgh-nlOBUQ_DhvxJ4TgCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/64111097-FAD2-4025-B020-1957B3BE8366-6484-000005AA4A25FD50.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="764" data-original-width="1023" height="476" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-83Bc_pwprgc/XuY9V4XlbtI/AAAAAAAAC-k/5g93tnDIcigWtgFgh-nlOBUQ_DhvxJ4TgCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/64111097-FAD2-4025-B020-1957B3BE8366-6484-000005AA4A25FD50.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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And now for a test };-P I first attached the A600 via my <a href="http://elgensrepairs.blogspot.dk/2012/10/homemade-rgb-scart-adaptor-for-amiga.html" target="_blank">homemade RGB-Scart adaptor</a> and the result was fantastic.<br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-4LpOElYyA2Y/XuY9e5QcEQI/AAAAAAAAC-s/QXODAkem2m4fC5dCh58g5cTzpBkZwo-UwCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/43F22F7D-D0A4-4E2D-B1B9-144F83C791A4-6484-000005AA9473DC09.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="764" data-original-width="1023" height="148" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-4LpOElYyA2Y/XuY9e5QcEQI/AAAAAAAAC-s/QXODAkem2m4fC5dCh58g5cTzpBkZwo-UwCLcBGAsYHQ/s200/43F22F7D-D0A4-4E2D-B1B9-144F83C791A4-6484-000005AA9473DC09.jpg" width="200" /></a><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-kYOHYwhXT9s/XuY9kcAsdbI/AAAAAAAAC-w/5-Q4hrqPS90kgf8qL5PgmigPzmyEB-CbgCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/5D83916C-B420-44B0-B972-924BB0B64085-6484-000005AA6E65E6AA.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="764" data-original-width="1023" height="148" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-kYOHYwhXT9s/XuY9kcAsdbI/AAAAAAAAC-w/5-Q4hrqPS90kgf8qL5PgmigPzmyEB-CbgCLcBGAsYHQ/s200/5D83916C-B420-44B0-B972-924BB0B64085-6484-000005AA6E65E6AA.jpg" width="200" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-vFT_Blwn33M/XuY9r3tRqJI/AAAAAAAAC-4/rOJqw7dRp8sHxSDSXZXDQ3FAr0ytcIouACLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/3E2AB843-97F6-4D29-BDC9-FF34FF2B6D09-6484-000005AB3667BD75.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="764" data-original-width="1023" height="148" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-vFT_Blwn33M/XuY9r3tRqJI/AAAAAAAAC-4/rOJqw7dRp8sHxSDSXZXDQ3FAr0ytcIouACLcBGAsYHQ/s200/3E2AB843-97F6-4D29-BDC9-FF34FF2B6D09-6484-000005AB3667BD75.jpg" width="200" /></a><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-sg2BpYkbIR0/XuY9vj_dbsI/AAAAAAAAC_A/0OnvLVSNG9kLOFFG-ffrlOLAXuCxIKtuACLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/D9B1C089-2D1E-4619-B08F-73EF7AC6EE4E-6484-000005AAB92C6B47.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="764" data-original-width="1023" height="148" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-sg2BpYkbIR0/XuY9vj_dbsI/AAAAAAAAC_A/0OnvLVSNG9kLOFFG-ffrlOLAXuCxIKtuACLcBGAsYHQ/s200/D9B1C089-2D1E-4619-B08F-73EF7AC6EE4E-6484-000005AAB92C6B47.jpg" width="200" /></a></div>
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Next I tried an arcade PCB (attached via my <a href="http://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.1825635165893.110508.1390686556&type=1&l=d171261ea5" target="_blank">homemade SuperGun</a>) with equally fabulous results.</div>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-4c_CbazubK4/XuY95mKYkAI/AAAAAAAAC_I/jpwlP151PwQWs8-wBZsue9XcJLnsDFdfQCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/6E049CB3-6FF4-4B80-8B7B-92CDB28AD466-6484-000005AB0FE1E46A.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="764" data-original-width="1023" height="476" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-4c_CbazubK4/XuY95mKYkAI/AAAAAAAAC_I/jpwlP151PwQWs8-wBZsue9XcJLnsDFdfQCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/6E049CB3-6FF4-4B80-8B7B-92CDB28AD466-6484-000005AB0FE1E46A.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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All in all, I consider this a great success! And should any of you guys out there have an old C1901 in the attic, I strongly encourage you to fit it with a SCART plug. It gives a very clear and crips picture, and the chassis is all analog with lots of knops, dials, and switches to make adjustments with. So far it has been able to sync with everything I have feed it, so it's going to be my main test monitor when I do repairs from now on.</div>
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What an awesome finding on a rainy day };-P</div>
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Elgenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09955625580194567794noreply@blogger.com6tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4064555688737648169.post-64184628954998839032012-10-29T22:04:00.000+01:002020-06-14T17:30:38.543+02:00Homemade 1MB Chip RAM Expansion for Amiga A600<div style="text-align: right;">
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As regular readers might have noticed, I've in the process of pimping my Amiga A600HD at the moment. And now it's time to add some more Chip RAM. On Amiga Chip RAM aka Graphics RAM is the memory shared between the CPU and all the custom chips; hence the name "Chip RAM" };-P. A600HD is born with 1MB of Chip RAM installed, and back in the days that was a lot (twice as much as A500!!! };-O). However now-a-days, if you want to run games directly from the harddrive using <a href="http://www.whdload.de/" target="_blank">WHDLoad</a>, it's a little bit on the small side. The 68000 CPU can address up to 2MB, so it would be nice to add an extra 1MB to the pool };-P Now there are some commercial expansion cards that does that; the most popular atm being the <a href="http://amigakit.leamancomputing.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=1038" target="_blank">A604 Memory Expansion</a>. However it is imo a little expensive and also I really enjoy doing stuff like this myself.<br />
So I started googling for DIY-projects expanding the amount of Chip RAM and quickly found <a href="http://www.amibay.com/showthread.php?t=8500" target="_blank">this wonderful hack</a> (now known as "The-A600-Piggyback-Hack") by Zetr0 in a sticky thread over at <a href="http://www.amibay.com/" target="_blank">AmiBay</a>; he piggybacks a DRAM IC on top of each of the 2 already fitted in the miggy. That in turn lead me to <a href="http://www.victortrucco.com/Commodore/ExpansaoA600/ExpansaoA600.asp" target="_blank">this blogpost</a> by Victor Trucco (I ran it through <a href="http://translate.google.com/translate?sl=auto&tl=en&js=n&prev=_t&hl=en&ie=UTF-8&layout=2&eotf=1&u=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.victortrucco.com%2FCommodore%2FExpansaoA600%2FExpansaoA600.asp" target="_blank">google translate</a>, as I can't read Brazilian Portuguese) via a link in the thread; he piggybacks 2 DRAMS on top of 1 of the already fitted DRAMs.<br />
Now I had some great ideas to work from, however I wanted a solution that was easy to remove again, and also I wanted to give the project my own personal flavour };-P After reading the thread at AmiBay and inspecting the schematics for the A600, it was obvious that all the address-, data-, and control-signals needed for the extra Chip RAM are present at the trapdoor connector. So my plan was, to attach the 2 extra DRAM-Chips piggybacked together there. After doing some crude measuring, I found that the pitch between the pins in the trapdoor connector is the same as in a socket for PCI-card to fit in a PC.<br />
I didn't have neither DRAM-chips nor PCI-sockets, so I went hunting on <a href="http://www.ebay.com/" target="_blank">evilBay</a> and quickly found a guy offering <a href="http://www.ebay.com/itm/251042002668?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649" target="_blank">a lot of 10 Toshiba TC514260DJ-60 SOJ chips</a> for a price of only $15.33 incl. shipping to Denmark. Next I found <a href="http://www.ebay.com/itm/200817807853?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2648" target="_blank">a lot of 5 PCI slots</a> at a price of $7.41 incl. shipping.<br />
I waited and waited, but finally both lots arrived in the mailbox };-P Now I had all the stuff needed; for wires I was going to use rainbow ribbon cable (having the same pitch as the pins on the DRAMs), as I just love how is looks like candy };-P<br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-m0lVtq9WRww/XuY-vg1-_UI/AAAAAAAAC_Y/pHld4mzdlyIUTao47pMtxxtavLvNiSqyACLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/4CD66D41-CAF1-41B2-86A0-66B242774197-946-000000C01D403423.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="764" data-original-width="1023" height="476" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-m0lVtq9WRww/XuY-vg1-_UI/AAAAAAAAC_Y/pHld4mzdlyIUTao47pMtxxtavLvNiSqyACLcBGAsYHQ/s640/4CD66D41-CAF1-41B2-86A0-66B242774197-946-000000C01D403423.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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First I checked if my measures had been correct (I had just tried to match up the pins using an old PCI card). Luckily, it is a perfect match };-P<br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-jDDV6vIkFCA/XuY-4Uc_-EI/AAAAAAAAC_c/QklQX7KaqjIeLVbZnZDWdDcmBSB7vguUwCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/BD0A4357-357E-4DEF-A26B-34EA2428D4AA-946-000000C473CE351E.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="764" data-original-width="1023" height="476" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-jDDV6vIkFCA/XuY-4Uc_-EI/AAAAAAAAC_c/QklQX7KaqjIeLVbZnZDWdDcmBSB7vguUwCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/BD0A4357-357E-4DEF-A26B-34EA2428D4AA-946-000000C473CE351E.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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The first thing to do was to prepare for the "marriage" of the two DRAM ICs. Being of SOJ type, they have their pins bend underneath themself, kind'a like a dead spider. So the one to go on top, had to have the pins straightened. First you lift the pins carefully with a Stanley knife.<br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-gkGAO7Vnlls/XuY-_rcpCzI/AAAAAAAAC_k/fKLTJu7AB7kLSwqUC-8-PmbHTfegX-RtgCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/4C7BDDA5-707E-41F3-B8E2-DA001C1F40B2-946-000000C0ABC80206.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="764" data-original-width="1023" height="476" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-gkGAO7Vnlls/XuY-_rcpCzI/AAAAAAAAC_k/fKLTJu7AB7kLSwqUC-8-PmbHTfegX-RtgCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/4C7BDDA5-707E-41F3-B8E2-DA001C1F40B2-946-000000C0ABC80206.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Then use a set of pliers to make each pin straight. Here's the final result.<br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Q6Q1BrshGME/XuY_FkVKSYI/AAAAAAAAC_o/Sj5gBIWaiNYkv4085YtH21_RiS6m70KgwCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/1F3B03C8-1CDD-41DF-A4A7-F6A92FC27537-804-0000008C481FA975.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="764" data-original-width="1023" height="476" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Q6Q1BrshGME/XuY_FkVKSYI/AAAAAAAAC_o/Sj5gBIWaiNYkv4085YtH21_RiS6m70KgwCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/1F3B03C8-1CDD-41DF-A4A7-F6A92FC27537-804-0000008C481FA975.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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One pin is bend upwards. That is the RAS (Row Access Strope); the only control-signal that is not the same for the two ICs.<br />
Next our happy couple are pressed together and "married" (do I hear wedding bells? };-P).<br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-xBN4A_kT6TU/XuY_M5loKnI/AAAAAAAAC_w/CusIdVPH6b0zOWwVr-oRRpxptwaeR3uuQCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/3C33C43F-989C-47D5-8F05-B6D79E207B47-804-0000008C6BF64C1A.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="764" data-original-width="1023" height="476" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-xBN4A_kT6TU/XuY_M5loKnI/AAAAAAAAC_w/CusIdVPH6b0zOWwVr-oRRpxptwaeR3uuQCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/3C33C43F-989C-47D5-8F05-B6D79E207B47-804-0000008C6BF64C1A.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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After that's done it's time to cut them rainbow ribbons.<br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-JPss5tVaBVk/XuY_VQYPg7I/AAAAAAAAC_4/mPW98hi0fskXPs9yAzP1AYegdbGwdg5YwCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/75384110-FFEE-40F6-9070-70409C46549E-804-0000008C5A20F920.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="764" data-original-width="1023" height="476" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-JPss5tVaBVk/XuY_VQYPg7I/AAAAAAAAC_4/mPW98hi0fskXPs9yAzP1AYegdbGwdg5YwCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/75384110-FFEE-40F6-9070-70409C46549E-804-0000008C5A20F920.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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The longer blue wire is for RAS on the upper IC. Luckily the IC-pin just beside the the RAS is NC (non connected), so no harm is done using that for the upper ICs RAS.<br />
First the pins 21-40 are soldered.<br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-R1SJXGG8OCA/XuY_c9BLhkI/AAAAAAAADAA/hnd5G0jzqkksag2HwF9fA-hLiK-EluEwwCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/7CA96046-A6B1-4BFD-A3F9-A0EF613C8070-804-0000008C7AFCD490.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="764" data-original-width="1023" height="476" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-R1SJXGG8OCA/XuY_c9BLhkI/AAAAAAAADAA/hnd5G0jzqkksag2HwF9fA-hLiK-EluEwwCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/7CA96046-A6B1-4BFD-A3F9-A0EF613C8070-804-0000008C7AFCD490.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Next the pins 1-20.<br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-PBu17gigw8A/XuY_lQD2ERI/AAAAAAAADAI/JYzUGaN2zTguPLqr2_SWqcYNw8SPLRdswCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/8D4FBA96-A57C-45BA-A26F-9DD98F560E83-804-0000008C968AA459.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="764" data-original-width="1023" height="476" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-PBu17gigw8A/XuY_lQD2ERI/AAAAAAAADAI/JYzUGaN2zTguPLqr2_SWqcYNw8SPLRdswCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/8D4FBA96-A57C-45BA-A26F-9DD98F560E83-804-0000008C968AA459.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Now all the wires must be soldered to the PCI socket<br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-F45UuqyFO_w/XuY_uqcArwI/AAAAAAAADAQ/-wKQxmzgKuYrjVZ2TiQaEs4eMBxl2uZ0gCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/C6D57595-0D07-4E54-AEFE-B70263E0E851-804-0000008CD6EA4616.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="764" data-original-width="1023" height="476" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-F45UuqyFO_w/XuY_uqcArwI/AAAAAAAADAQ/-wKQxmzgKuYrjVZ2TiQaEs4eMBxl2uZ0gCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/C6D57595-0D07-4E54-AEFE-B70263E0E851-804-0000008CD6EA4616.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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using these mappings:<br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-wp0PlNS_MtY/XuY_2Y5XXaI/AAAAAAAADAY/3OJ1nydST7sgv5pQlN_KVakYeJ57Ug2bwCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/FC2838B8-F7FC-4FA0-B7EF-8DBADA532A47-4340-000003D6D3EED4D4.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="764" data-original-width="1024" height="476" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-wp0PlNS_MtY/XuY_2Y5XXaI/AAAAAAAADAY/3OJ1nydST7sgv5pQlN_KVakYeJ57Ug2bwCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/FC2838B8-F7FC-4FA0-B7EF-8DBADA532A47-4340-000003D6D3EED4D4.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-qi-XLtbEpg4/XuY_6MvtYdI/AAAAAAAADAc/Kwn1i7rqUBo5jFauqkmvFrHCDFzMvVlhQCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/04E4D6E4-862E-47ED-BE70-2D8B6D2F82B2-4340-000003D6E0D9E90F.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="764" data-original-width="1023" height="476" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-qi-XLtbEpg4/XuY_6MvtYdI/AAAAAAAADAc/Kwn1i7rqUBo5jFauqkmvFrHCDFzMvVlhQCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/04E4D6E4-862E-47ED-BE70-2D8B6D2F82B2-4340-000003D6E0D9E90F.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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And now for the big test (first I tested without the caps shown in the picture)<br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-hqVGTmd_wpU/XuZADTj9M6I/AAAAAAAADAk/nuaAfNfF43MylfVMwCaaE5TUDEeO98fTwCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/7C768913-3664-4EE4-9C66-1B5CFB3E4865-4340-000003D6827C3A85.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="764" data-original-width="1023" height="476" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-hqVGTmd_wpU/XuZADTj9M6I/AAAAAAAADAk/nuaAfNfF43MylfVMwCaaE5TUDEeO98fTwCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/7C768913-3664-4EE4-9C66-1B5CFB3E4865-4340-000003D6827C3A85.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Now WorkBench found the new extra 1MB alright.<br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-IfmzRa7MLi8/XuZALCJck7I/AAAAAAAADAw/dVd-0SZDmxw9EVqyLbdbsC3XCuT24X-TgCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/54C9CF0E-4362-460F-B474-290BC8F3188C-804-0000008D135CCD60.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="764" data-original-width="1023" height="476" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-IfmzRa7MLi8/XuZALCJck7I/AAAAAAAADAw/dVd-0SZDmxw9EVqyLbdbsC3XCuT24X-TgCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/54C9CF0E-4362-460F-B474-290BC8F3188C-804-0000008D135CCD60.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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But when trying to use it, things got bad. The <a href="http://aminet.net/package/util/moni/MemCheck12" target="_blank">memory tester</a> i use reported many random errors (random meaning not at the same addresses everytime) and when trying to load big games (like Cinemaware-stuff), I got random crashes.<br />
At first I thought that this was a problem related to smoothening and/or decoupling, so I tried adding one 220nF capacitor across each supply to the ICs and one 2.2uF capacitor at each end of the powerrail for the ICs. That only made things worse...so removed the caps again. But now I still had as many errors as when they where still fitted. Grrrr!!!<br />
Decided on giving the whole project a rest for a few days };-S<br />
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I made a post in the thread over at AmiBay and Zetr0 replied, that technically the solution looked fine. However he thought that caps might not be the way to go as they might induce more noise into the circuit than they'd remove. He also mentioned, that I might've toasted one or both the DRAMs and proposed that I either tried to test the two ICs individually or started all over with a new set of ICs.<br />
I desoldered the IC couple and tried to divorce them, but it was not possible without destroying them completely. So in the bin they went. I made a new couple just as before and soldered them on the ribbons, but it ended out in one big mess. These ribbons are not meant for soldering in the first place, so the heat from soldering, desolering, and resoldering had made the insulation into one big pile of goo. So desoldered the new couple again.<br />
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I now decided on trying to use kynar instead of ribbons. They are much thinner and singlecore, making it much easier to control. However I was sad to give up on the ribbons, as they just look so cool };-(<br />
Following an idea given to me by Phipscube (a dear personal friend and also an AmiBay member), I taped a piece of cardboard to the PCI socket and taped the ICs upside-down on it. I cut a hole in the cardboard for easy access to the lower pins of the socket when soldering. Then I started soldering the kynars one by one.<br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-dlD_QSWiKNY/XuZAUWBOlfI/AAAAAAAADA4/cKVGYiXhMX0zga1lV07etWO-JqvCG0s_QCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/931A7FAA-A09E-4DF6-8639-B59675FDAC86-405-00000035AAF6135D.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="764" data-original-width="1023" height="476" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-dlD_QSWiKNY/XuZAUWBOlfI/AAAAAAAADA4/cKVGYiXhMX0zga1lV07etWO-JqvCG0s_QCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/931A7FAA-A09E-4DF6-8639-B59675FDAC86-405-00000035AAF6135D.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Uel07RoPeYE/XuZAeLxoFqI/AAAAAAAADBA/DhEOYFNWrzM-A1VKwh3lrIZLJkFhAT2XgCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/9F15BB27-414D-46F0-840F-4E994B5E0174-405-00000035BBA977E7.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="764" data-original-width="1023" height="476" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Uel07RoPeYE/XuZAeLxoFqI/AAAAAAAADBA/DhEOYFNWrzM-A1VKwh3lrIZLJkFhAT2XgCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/9F15BB27-414D-46F0-840F-4E994B5E0174-405-00000035BBA977E7.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Again following a good advice from Phipscube, I did the soldering over a couple of nights in order to be fresh in the head...otherwise you end making a mess.<br />
<blockquote class="tr_bq">
<i>The really nice thing about kynar, is that it is so small and thin. </i><i>However, the really annoying thing about kynar, is that it is so small and thin. Elgen</i></blockquote>
The final result looked like this.<br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Gh5J_W6H7bU/XuZAoXr-4JI/AAAAAAAADBI/IbdaC1iagHM1Dk8yoLh_Wy_fzNOEgsxbACLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/A5178ADA-AAC2-4543-94F8-B6EF32E54381-6862-000005B1F047A8CA.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="763" data-original-width="1023" height="476" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Gh5J_W6H7bU/XuZAoXr-4JI/AAAAAAAADBI/IbdaC1iagHM1Dk8yoLh_Wy_fzNOEgsxbACLcBGAsYHQ/s640/A5178ADA-AAC2-4543-94F8-B6EF32E54381-6862-000005B1F047A8CA.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Once again time for a test in Miss Miggy, but (MOAN!) I still had the frakkin' random errors! };-S<br />
Tried to add caps, and again it just made things worse!!!<br />
Now I was so close to giving up and trash the whole gorram project. However during the day, I came to think of good ol' Faraday and his cage. Hmmm, maby the instability was caused by electromagnetic radiation from either the near-by circuits, or maby just general radio-wave-noise. So after having tucked the kids in that night, I first wrapped the construction in paper to insulate<br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-TiCTfcV3G5Q/XuZAxqL92rI/AAAAAAAADBQ/DPuPta7krMMHb28m718PKuTsL4R-W3mhwCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/74976512-BA95-4A68-94A7-E07C012E0D4A-6862-000005B1E1D94C8F.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="764" data-original-width="1023" height="476" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-TiCTfcV3G5Q/XuZAxqL92rI/AAAAAAAADBQ/DPuPta7krMMHb28m718PKuTsL4R-W3mhwCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/74976512-BA95-4A68-94A7-E07C012E0D4A-6862-000005B1E1D94C8F.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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and then in tin foil (yup, the same kind I use for my kiddies school lunch };-P). I attached it in the trapdoor and connected the tin foil to ground. Aaaaand....<br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-WK9VMtNX5VQ/XuZA5Lz0Y6I/AAAAAAAADBY/uugr33QViQ84gdzVwwLdj8msLhtkNo_fwCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/9DE7DEF1-1FC9-48D5-A793-5AAE9D485A72-4340-000003D54AD1A605.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="764" data-original-width="1023" height="476" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-WK9VMtNX5VQ/XuZA5Lz0Y6I/AAAAAAAADBY/uugr33QViQ84gdzVwwLdj8msLhtkNo_fwCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/9DE7DEF1-1FC9-48D5-A793-5AAE9D485A72-4340-000003D54AD1A605.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Heureka! The random errors had gone away! };-P<br />
<blockquote class="tr_bq">
<i>"Dad, did you put chips in my lunch pack for dessert?" "Sure did son, but not the potato kind };-P"</i></blockquote>
Now I had something that worked; it was time to make it look good too };-P<br />
First I gently lifted the ICs from the cardboard using a Stanley knife. Then replaced the cardboard with a smaller piece that didn't have the hole in it.<br />
Next I cut the PCI socket down to the same size as the connector in the trapdoor using Mr. Dremel and a small file. I then cut the end of the piece that I'd cut off, and superglued it to the end of the now smaller socket.<br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-EpuvXiwEnKo/XuZBDmNuJBI/AAAAAAAADBc/o2ZWfdw9bukSGl3y8fY-rK3b-_8lOc_vQCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/75B9E506-204B-49D5-9387-8817F8D86E29-6862-000005B1F831FFF4.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="764" data-original-width="1023" height="476" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-EpuvXiwEnKo/XuZBDmNuJBI/AAAAAAAADBc/o2ZWfdw9bukSGl3y8fY-rK3b-_8lOc_vQCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/75B9E506-204B-49D5-9387-8817F8D86E29-6862-000005B1F831FFF4.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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And now for a nicer Faraday cage.<br />
Ever since I started doing electronic projects as a kid, I've always had this thing about having some tins in different sizes (from canned good) on my work bench. They often come in quite handy; as tabletop trashbins (for things that you might/might not need again later in the project); for small things (screws etc.) when you dismantle devices; for very hot solder when you clean the filter in you desoldering station; find more uses yourself };-P<br />
Bottom line, I had this little fellow stading on the table that day.<br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-3REMzB37ZH0/XuZBblqXOII/AAAAAAAADBw/LBcMPkKqnrY4LwxI7xeMRFQn8_VbW53owCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/D7CC206B-BA95-4F18-AE1A-DDA395918E7E-6862-000005B1CC26D551.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="764" data-original-width="1023" height="476" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-3REMzB37ZH0/XuZBblqXOII/AAAAAAAADBw/LBcMPkKqnrY4LwxI7xeMRFQn8_VbW53owCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/D7CC206B-BA95-4F18-AE1A-DDA395918E7E-6862-000005B1CC26D551.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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I scraped a little bit in the paint and found that it was conductive and normal solder for electronics would bite on it. So I cut off both ends and cut the tube open using my Dremel.<br />
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(But perhaps I should've used a heavy duty disc instead of a normal one; the one on the right is a brand new disc };-P)</div>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Og39LgqDbMA/XuZBsFsZe3I/AAAAAAAADB8/p6mSqqId9hYXxsX8b0c7nqtN4y6NJ9NBwCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/08F69AF9-1D1B-4876-9629-4C84811A772E-6862-000005B1E914C391.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="739" data-original-width="989" height="478" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Og39LgqDbMA/XuZBsFsZe3I/AAAAAAAADB8/p6mSqqId9hYXxsX8b0c7nqtN4y6NJ9NBwCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/08F69AF9-1D1B-4876-9629-4C84811A772E-6862-000005B1E914C391.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Next I cut out one big piece (top and bottom of the cage) and 2 smaller ones (the sides) using an old pair of scissors. I then bend the large piece and soldered the sides on leaving a hole for the socket.</div>
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As the last thing I soldered a wire from GND on the socket to the cage in order to ground it, and here it is in all it's glory:</div>
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And here fitted in Miss Miggy (and it still works };-P)</div>
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I wish to thank Zetr0 (AmiBay) for inspiration and good advice, Victor Trucco (blogger) for inspiration, and Phispcube aka Les (AmiBay and dear friend) for good advice and cheer-ups through many many txts often very late at nite };-P</div>
Elgenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09955625580194567794noreply@blogger.com17